357XP advice

[timber tim]

Hello to everyone, this is my first post, I have found lots of useful advice on here in the past  so thanks for that. 

 

I have a 357xp that seized a piston, due to running lean, I have disassembled it and cleaned the aluminium from the cylinder wall. There are a couple of score lines in the cylinder and i am wondering if they are bad enough to warrant getting a new cylinder, or whether I could get away with just ordering up a new piston I plan to get a meteor one), There is a score line just below the exhaust port, and one to the left of the exhaust port running from the bottom edge of the port to the top of the cylinder. Could anyone offer any advice as to whether this cylinder is still serviceable please?

 

The other question I have is that the Husqvarna parts manual I have lists the complete cylinder/piston assembly as 537 24 85-04. However, where I have found a stockist of this assembly as a non original, they list it as a Husqvarna 537 24 85 04/537 24 85-02 equivalent. What is the difference between the part numbers ending -02 and -04?

 

Thanks for your collective help!

[Stubby]

1 hour ago, timber tim said:

Hello to everyone, this is my first post, I have found lots of useful advice on here in the past  so thanks for that. 

 

I have a 357xp that seized a piston, due to running lean, I have disassembled it and cleaned the aluminium from the cylinder wall. There are a couple of score lines in the cylinder and i am wondering if they are bad enough to warrant getting a new cylinder, or whether I could get away with just ordering up a new piston I plan to get a meteor one), There is a score line just below the exhaust port, and one to the left of the exhaust port running from the bottom edge of the port to the top of the cylinder. Could anyone offer any advice as to whether this cylinder is still serviceable please?

 

The other question I have is that the Husqvarna parts manual I have lists the complete cylinder/piston assembly as 537 24 85-04. However, where I have found a stockist of this assembly as a non original, they list it as a Husqvarna 537 24 85 04/537 24 85-02 equivalent. What is the difference between the part numbers ending -02 and -04?

 

Thanks for your collective help!

Hard to tell from pics but on the face of it it doesn't look too bad . I would give it a light hone . I would be more concerned to find out what made it run lean in the first place and fix that or it will happen again . 

[adw]

02 is the auto deco valve cylinder, this will sub to the 04 cylinder

[billpierce]

What stubby says is Bob on

[openspaceman]

2 hours ago, timber tim said:

I have disassembled it and cleaned the aluminium from the cylinder wall

What did you do to clean the aluminium pick up off? I ask because any residue left on the bore can cause aluminium to aluminium fusing from the piston again.

[timber tim]

Thanks for replies so far, answers as follows-

It ran lean because of a split in the carburettor boot.

I used wet and dry paper. Wondering if I should also treat with hydrochloric acid to get the last of any residue off?

[openspaceman]

51 minutes ago, timber tim said:

 Wondering if I should also treat with hydrochloric acid to get the last of any residue off?

I do it the other way around, I use caustic soda gel applied with  a cotton bud, rinse and repeat until the white deposit no longer forms, the same can be done with HCl probably quicker, then I use wet and dry. I was never in a hurry like a commercial shop would be.

[Ratman]

the score under exhaust port wont hurt its out of combustion/pressure stroke.have got many a saw going with worse than that..just ad meteor piston[emoji106]the one running up to combustion chamber will cause problem if it is deep(bog down under load)if you cant feel it with your nail should be ok....brake hone at top is cheap option for final hone or if money is no object the yellow one.for sake of 20 odd quid and half hrs work i would run that barrel again.hope of help[emoji846] ps use wd40 for honing
 

That flex hone looks a neat bit of kit, never tried one, only ever used stones. Some good info relating to em on Pacehigh website. Shall try one in the future, good shout [emoji106]

[Ratman]

thats where i got them..awesome is the word i would use but they are 50 odd quid each and each one is suited to 2 barrel sizes max..got one to do 47/48(357&365)..one to do 50 (372) and one to do 60(880&088) .worth the investment.15 to 20 secs to do 088  barrel [emoji106]

Tbh i dont really care for cost a lot of the time, if its a oneway lifetime fix then its do it once do it right i say. Those would be a good investment though i think.
Only really question suff or go tightarse on something if the books aint gona balance or the guy says, “i dont really wana spend owt” [emoji849][emoji849] but we all know that scenario!

[timber tim]

On 10/07/2020 at 23:04, openspaceman said:

I do it the other way around, I use caustic soda gel applied with  a cotton bud, rinse and repeat until the white deposit no longer forms, the same can be done with HCl probably quicker, then I use wet and dry. I was never in a hurry like a commercial shop would be.

Yes i have seen caustic soda recommended as a hydrochloric alternative. I suppose as it is a gel it is easier to do spot applications without it running onto areas you dont need it. Will give it a go and see if i get a white deposit to indicate any remnants of aluminium