Bar wear

[nepia]

?  No problems so far but I should shouldn't I.

[Khriss]

49 minutes ago, Stere said:

Yeah might of being sunflower i used. 

 

You ever pull the clutches to clean out behind?

 

Thats where it all acumulated...

Yea, Sunflower oil is less fattening..  k

[billpierce]

Is why i mix with a bit bar oil seems to stop it congealing over time

[nepia]

2 hours ago, Stere said:

You ever pull the clutches to clean out behind?

 

Thats where it all acumulated...

My 262 - 10 seconds with an old washing up brush.  The only hard bit was at the top left corner where you can see I chipped it off (very easily).

[Joe Newton]

4 hours ago, Stere said:

 

 

You ever pull the clutches to clean out behind?

 

 

IME you'll get a build up behind the clutch no matter what oil you use. 

 

Clean it out whenever a clutch spring goes...

[wyk]

5 hours ago, Stere said:

Yeah might of being sunflower i used. 

 

You ever pull the clutches to clean out behind?

 

Thats where it all acumulated...

Do not use Sunflower oil if you can avoid it. It will oxidize much faster than Rapeseed, and it doesn't lubricate quite as well. It tastes lovely, tho.

 

I've said it before and I'll say it again; I set my oilers to maximum, and I run straight rapeseed oil you buy from the grocer. Have been doing so since 2010. It works just fine and has saved me far more in oil expenses than it has caused any issues with my bars and chains. It is also biodegradable and does not cause any health issues that petroleum oil can. I've made a lot of firewood and felled a lot of trees over the years, nearly all of it with ported saws and long bars. If you work in very hot conditions, or stump a lot of trees or mill, you may want something thicker, but in the UK and Ireland, I haven't had issues cutting in freezing weather and in temps above 32C. I'm usually far less happy than the saw is in that weather.

 

When I remove a bar to dress it, I flip it. I dress my bars and clean them out often depending on the conditions. Dressing bars is kind of like sharpening kitchen knives. If you use a light touch with a sharpening hone every time before you use the knife, it stays sharp and useful for a very long time. Abuse it, and the knife stops cutting worth a damn, becomes dangerous now that you have to actually use force to make it cut, and you have to bust out the stones and spend a long time putting the edge back on that knife afterwards. A chainsaw is like a knife this way; when tuned right, you should not have to use much pressure. The saw does all the work. Use a light touch and clean and redress your bar often, vs a heavy touch and rarely. And flip it, flip it good.

 

USGS test on rapeseed based bio oils:

https://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/html/98511316/98511316.html

 

Croation Forestry Dept test showing rapeseed based bio oils can run cooler:

http://www.crojfe.com/site/assets/files/3945/stanovsky_83-90.pdf

 

The usual mess I make:

 

 

Edited June 16, 2020 by wyk
I can't spell to save my life

[MattyF]

Sounds like your running 3/8 0.058 for husky’s instead of 3/8 0.063. For stihls and bigger husky’s.
I find worn out husky bars will handle the latter but if you run the other even on new stihl bars as I just found out on a 400cm after running out of chain and In desperation having to use the 0.058 it cut exactly as you described.

[nepia]

On 16/06/2020 at 08:44, Stere said:

You ever pull the clutches to clean out behind?

 

Thats where it all acumulated...

Will you keep your awkward questions to yourself please?!

Having obviously impressed with the pristine state of my 262 I whipped the clutch off the MS241.  Ahem...   half an eggcup of bitumen!

 

 

Edited June 18, 2020 by nepia

[Khriss]

My word @nepia   did you find the oil pump hairspring  !   They get like that on ours where blokes bash down bramble n thorn with a saw, think the clutch cooks used like that ?  K

[Khriss]

On 16/06/2020 at 14:02, wyk said:

Do not use Sunflower oil if you can avoid it. It will oxidize much faster than Rapeseed, and it doesn't lubricate quite as well. It tastes lovely, tho.

 

I've said it before and I'll say it again; I set my oilers to maximum, and I run straight rapeseed oil you buy from the grocer. Have been doing so since 2010. It works just fine and has saved me far more in oil expenses than it has caused any issues with my bars and chains. It is also biodegradable and does not cause any health issues that petroleum oil can. I've made a lot of firewood and felled a lot of trees over the years, nearly all of it with ported saws and long bars. If you work in very hot conditions, or stump a lot of trees or mill, you may want something thicker, but in the UK and Ireland, I haven't had issues cutting in freezing weather and in temps above 32C. I'm usually far less happy than the saw is in that weather.

 

When I remove a bar to dress it, I flip it. I dress my bars and clean them out often depending on the conditions. Dressing bars is kind of like sharpening kitchen knives. If you use a light touch with a sharpening hone every time before you use the knife, it stays sharp and useful for a very long time. Abuse it, and the knife stops cutting worth a damn, becomes dangerous now that you have to actually use force to make it cut, and you have to bust out the stones and spend a long time putting the edge back on that knife afterwards. A chainsaw is like a knife this way; when tuned right, you should not have to use much pressure. The saw does all the work. Use a light touch and clean and redress your bar often, vs a heavy touch and rarely. And flip it, flip it good.

 

USGS test on rapeseed based bio oils:

https://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/html/98511316/98511316.html

 

Croation Forestry Dept test showing rapeseed based bio oils can run cooler:

http://www.crojfe.com/site/assets/files/3945/stanovsky_83-90.pdf

 

The usual mess I make:

 

 

That's atrocious  ?  I hope you finished properly with a die straight Bavarian chalet log stack young man  ?  K