Tips for proper break-in of a brand-new saw? (Echo 355t)

[ArborOdyssey]

So I'd returned a stihl 194t (thankfully stihl stepped-in to save my day, Ace wouldn't take back an un-touched unit hours later thought I was 'stuck' w/ it) and got my 'dream' saw (next to a 540xp I guess) an echo 355t.

 

Guy told me "ready for use, no need for break-in's, just be a lil gentler on 1st tank and expect it'll take 2-3 tankfuls to reach full-power" when buying my 355t.

 

But, when speaking to the Stihl rep over the phone and he asks "So you haven't actually cut anything, you're still 'breaking-in' by running it idle w/ Motomix?", he was OK w/ authorizing Ace to take the return but he mentions to me "just having it idle-through tanks isn't a good break-in it's actually bad for the saw"....

 

I didn't wanna get-into that and risk losing my chance to swap my $350 194t for a $350 355t (just a *lil* difference there, right ? ) so didn't question him BUT the Stihl guide is clearr about no out-of-wood wide-open-throttle(WOT) for 1st three tanks.... Since I wasn't putting it in-wood (was trying to sell as-new on craigslist for $300, take the $50 loss and go get the 355t), I'd just let it idle and anytime I walked-by I'd throttle it a bit (never past ~75%WOT, hell I know WOT - anytime - is bad if not in-wood)  Blew my mind to hear that could be 'bad', would've thought it the gentlest way to bed-/break-in everything!

Now that I have this pristine 355t next to me (still hasn't cut!), I wanna ensure I've broken-in properly, so ANY advice is appreciated very very much!  Also, specifically, I'm curious about:

- should I add some (synth)oil to my canned-fuel, to richen fuel to like 35:1 or 40:1, for those 1st tankfuls?  Had read of someone who does that..

- **Carb-settings** - my understanding is Echo tends to ship units kinda lean (odd considering my 194t had both H&L jets fully turned-out to the limiter-caps - lol these 2 saws are only 2 I own that came w/ limiter-caps )  Should I pull-out those limiter caps and tune-by-ear (or by ear+tach) or should I assume it's ideal as--is?  Heck I just rrealized I could probably find "OEM spec" carb-settings, and simply copy those and maybe open/close in 1/10th turn increments as-needed!  Although I guess that's just temporary, as there's no way that catyl/spark-screen/full-body-of-muffler will be there in a couple days and will need to richen both jets to compensate increased 'throughput'(I mod air-intakes too for more&cleaner air-availability once I'm opening mufflers/exhaust ports)

 

Thanks a TON for any advice (asides "just go cut"!), it's not my 1st new-to-me climb saw but I'd only had a 25cc/12" and a 33cc/16" (but it's a 1.6HP, 10lbs Tanaka pig, only used when I need the 16"), so this 355t is going to trade setups and get the new(almost-new) 16" oregon setup from the Tanaka so will have "3 classes" of climb saw which was the initial ideal (I'm a small guy, so like defaulting to my 25cc when-possible (it's a $140 clone/'chinese saw' that I've had >1yr and no complaints!), then will use 14" echo bar&chain on Tanaka's 33cc, then'll use Echo w/ the 16" as-needed.   This is awesome am feeling SO lucky right now

 

[AngrySquirrel]

Any Engine does not like idling either new or old!

Try that on a Harley Electra Pig etc and will have back cylinder hanging out!

Great way to get ring glaze is to leave to idle for long periods promotes bore wear also.

Reason run engines is to seat everything down under some pressure clearing any rough bits off/out evening out any tolerance differences and variances between components ie block>head>sump>manifolds etc

Main one is Alloy to cast iron as soak heat differently so a hot piston in a cold bore can lead to increased wear/scrub.

Alloy Pistons Anneal in use like any metal heated/cooled but you want it more even.

 

So idling on an Air cooled Engine is a sure fire Death sentence as the reason is in the name Air Cooled!

Needs decent airflow over so don't cook it! as oil for one as a heat range it works in too cool is bad and too hot is also.

 

Best is to run any engine under reasonable load varying revs often and not maximum revs esp non loaded and let cool a bit before switching off by running no load with medium'ish revs for short while.

 

Known bike engines to blow up shortly after stopped after being "Hot" so next time or so when was under a lot of load went bang!

 

Metals/Tech/Tolerances and oils are far improved these days but still need to look after things.

 

For me with a high performance engine like a Race lump be it bike or boat i'd run for so many hours/tanks then open and clean internals for any swarf/debris then put back together with a re torq of everything.

 

But to me think you should go put saws back in the boxes and go learn some mechanics before you cost your self lots of $$$ maybe even your life! should you have an accident up a tree with one!

 

There not Toys!

 

Edited May 14, 2020 by AngrySquirrel

[Khriss]

Yup , Any engine needs gentle - but through the range- use to bed it in. Four or Two stroke, I use a tankful cutting at 3/4 throttle on my saws, then see how it feels, but don't scream it fr a few days till I'm sure.  K

[Khriss]

When it comes to ( not electronic carbs)  I have found once it's settled in, tune it by ear then see what it's like fr a week. I have never had bother tuning carbs by ear ( it's a gift I suppose ) Definately find they are running better than factory settings. K

[peatff]

Run it like you hired it, no need to break in and they are not designed to run part throttle. You can run a rich mixture but the modern saws with auto tune or limiters on the adjuster screws pretty much put paid to that.

[DCS6800i]

Fill the tank and go to work

 

 

Its that simple. 

[Stubby]

7 minutes ago, DCS6800i said:

Fill the tank and go to work

 

 

Its that simple. 

This .

[Mick Dempsey]

Never ran a saw in, just use it.

[Mick Dempsey]

8 hours ago, Khriss said:

Yup , Any engine needs gentle - but through the range- use to bed it in. Four or Two stroke, I use a tankful cutting at 3/4 throttle on my saws, then see how it feels, but don't scream it fr a few days till I'm sure.  K

You mad bro?

[spudulike]

Flat out for short periods, don't leave it idling for long periods, keep the heat down so no long flat out runs.

Theory - piston and bore are rough to begin with, this will cause more heat to be generated whilst running in hence short periods of flat out.

These rough surfaces allow the piston and ring to form the same shape of the bore but you have limited time as the rough surfaces will smooth out relatively quickly so you use it flat out for short periods allowing for the parts to bed in quickly. This will give the saw more compression and therefore, more torque/power.