660 oiler

[thetoolnut]

Afternoon Gents,

 

My 660 oiler is playing up a bit, I'm running an Oregon 32" .063 powermatch bar and full comp chain. The oiler packed in on a job recently, I stripped the saw down so as to get the oil pump out. The oiler arm looks ok and the pump moves oil if the gear is moved manually with ones thumb. I flushed out the oil tank with petrol and the oil filter is clear. I blew compressed air into the oil line from the pump side and blew the vacum seal and the pump itself. I put the saw back together and fired her up. The chain is getting a minuscule amount of oil.

 

I know from experience that Stihl Oilers are quite stingy and have minimum adjustment. Maybe I'm missing something simple here, for example have I got the adjustment screw in the closed position rather than open. There is no plus or minus icons near the adjustment screw. Intuitively one would imagine that clockwise is closed and anti-clockwise is open.

 

I know there is a high output oiler available for the 660, I'll probably get one of those anyway. Any pointers from 660 users would be most appreciated,

 

Thanks, ?

 

[Wonky]

I’m not sure I’m reading your poast Wright, all still oily things work the same here’s a pic  look at the pic o gram on the metal

in real life they all work the same  9 till 12 or 3 till 6  depending on which way you look at it. My pic is clockwise increasing oil flow.  A 1/4 of a turn is min to full

 

there is a mod you can do,, if you’ve got the time (we’ve all got time at the mo) and a few tools... but it is easy to mess it up.. after all the normal pump stroke is 0.9mm and the ho is just a measly 0.3mm more at 1.2mm.

 

any how check the pic and report back if you got it back to front or I read your poast back to front,,, 

 

btw I need a better hobby than drinking, as there is bugger all to do now days ???

If you fancy trying the mod I can’t point you to the right place..?

Edited March 29, 2020 by Wonky
Correction of Autocorrect ?

[spudulike]

On oiling, if the saw is fired up with no bar, you should get a good solid dribble of oil running down the side of the saw in a few seconds.

My usual inspection is to check the bar oiler hole....you would be surprised, just done a MS150 and it was blocked!!!

Spin the clutch off, check the oiler arm isn't loose on the plastic pinion and grips the pinion well. Check the END of the oiler arm, they often wear off especially when the drum is a bit wobbly.

If this is all OK then the oil pump comes off, check the oil pickup filter and pipe isn't blocked - the tank should be fine if you have flushed it. Check the plastic pinion thread is good - VERY unlikely it has failed on this machine model.

The pump...if you put the drive shaft in certain positions, carb cleaner/WD40 can generally be forced passed it if sprayed down the outlet hole so try that, look down the holes and you can use a compressor on it. The plug will be on the inlet side of the pump if plugged. You can use a bit of fuel line pushed against the holes and blow through them.

If the pump is clear and the spray goes through a bit easy then if the machine is high hours then it may be the pump is bad - the steel pump shaft can wear the alloy it sits in and after a time, it will stop pumping with any force so a new one will be needed.

If that doesn't work.....panic

 

Edited March 29, 2020 by spudulike

[thetoolnut]

23 hours ago, Wonky said:

I’m not sure I’m reading your poast Wright, all still oily things work the same here’s a pic  look at the pic o gram on the metal

in real life they all work the same  9 till 12 or 3 till 6  depending on which way you look at it. My pic is clockwise increasing oil flow.  A 1/4 of a turn is min to full

 

there is a mod you can do,, if you’ve got the time (we’ve all got time at the mo) and a few tools... but it is easy to mess it up.. after all the normal pump stroke is 0.9mm and the ho is just a measly 0.3mm more at 1.2mm.

 

any how check the pic and report back if you got it back to front or I read your poast back to front,,, 

 

btw I need a better hobby than drinking, as there is bugger all to do now days ???

If you fancy trying the mod I can’t point you to the right place..?

Thanks for your input, ? I'll have a look at my 660 and report back to you asap. I have an older 660 without the plus minus icon underneath the adjustment screw. Hence the possibility that I may have inadvertently closed off the pump, ??

[thetoolnut]

22 hours ago, spudulike said:

On oiling, if the saw is fired up with no bar, you should get a good solid dribble of oil running down the side of the saw in a few seconds.

My usual inspection is to check the bar oiler hole....you would be surprised, just done a MS150 and it was blocked!!!

Spin the clutch off, check the oiler arm isn't loose on the plastic pinion and grips the pinion well. Check the END of the oiler arm, they often wear off especially when the drum is a bit wobbly.

If this is all OK then the oil pump comes off, check the oil pickup filter and pipe isn't blocked - the tank should be fine if you have flushed it. Check the plastic pinion thread is good - VERY unlikely it has failed on this machine model.

The pump...if you put the drive shaft in certain positions, carb cleaner/WD40 can generally be forced passed it if sprayed down the outlet hole so try that, look down the holes and you can use a compressor on it. The plug will be on the inlet side of the pump if plugged. You can use a bit of fuel line pushed against the holes and blow through them.

If the pump is clear and the spray goes through a bit easy then if the machine is high hours then it may be the pump is bad - the steel pump shaft can wear the alloy it sits in and after a time, it will stop pumping with any force so a new one will be needed.

If that doesn't work.....panic

 

Sound man Spud, ? I did everything you advised here earlier in the Week. As I have an older model 660 without the plus minus icon underneath the adjustment screw on the oiler I may have inadvertently shut off the pump, ?? I'm used to my 241 and 261 which both have those plus minus indicators. I'll let you know how I get on. A high output oiler is on my list anyway because that 660 is my go to saw for big stuff. I'm hoping to get an Alaskan or a Panther mill down the line so I'll need the extra oil flow.

[Joe Newton]

Isn't there something you can do on the 660s to open the oiler up more? Something about a pin that can be pushed in?

[Stubby]

1 hour ago, Joe Newton said:

Isn't there something you can do on the 660s

Yes . Get a 395XP ?

[htb]

Got one of them as well.

[thetoolnut]

55 minutes ago, Stubby said:

Yes . Get a 395XP ?

A modded 390 would be nice! I'm expecting Husky to come out with a 590 and a 595 shortly.

[thetoolnut]

2 hours ago, Joe Newton said:

Isn't there something you can do on the 660s to open the oiler up more? Something about a pin that can be pushed in?

Yup, I remember reading about that somewhere. It might have been the Arboristsite.com.