clearview 500 Clearview 500 issues with over heating

[Squaredy]

14 hours ago, Dan burner man said:

Looks like this. 

 

Can't really control it.

 

Contacted the company I bought it from and seeing what they say. Looks like a stove fault to me?

I had exactly this experience about a year ago in a holiday cottage.  Massive inferno followed by just embers.  I think the problem was the wood.  I was using really dry small stuff which I burn all the time at home but in a modern fire it was hopeless.  I didn’t get the chance to try it but I am convinced large dense logs would have solved the problem.  What wood are you using?

[neiln]

I have limited control of my DEFRA approved stovax, and need to pay attention to the wood I load (type, size and amount) or else it'll be too hot.  I shoved 2 pieces of Holly on it the other day, bit of a hot reload as I had a lot of coals still, but thought one large and one smaller bit of Holly would be ok..... 90 seconds later I was sweating, physically and nervously, as the flue thermometer hit 450C and the ir thermometer backed that up. That was with all vents as closed as they go.  It is tricky to run sometimes!  However with two logs temps were dropping in only 15 minutes, down to about 300C after half an hour and 20 minutes later I was loading again with no harm done.  I have warped the baffle a bit over time, but not seriously.  I just take more care with the log type, size and number these days, oh and if it's ' woomph! Wood' then I make sure to let the previous load burn right down before reloading, hot reloads can be a problem as I just described!

[Ashes_Firewood]

17 hours ago, Dan burner man said:

Hi,

The stove is a DEFRA approved version. My last DEFRA approved (smoke control) could be put out if the wheels were closed, morso squirrell. 

 

Over the last 2 weeks the stove metal in the middle of the door has dropped noticeably by maybe 3mm. It's distorted. I have a stove thermometer on it but still reaches 700 degrees with the wheel closed and the bottom air intake nearly closed. Is this normal?

 

I have the same stove but not the smoke control version.

 

I have both vents open fully until it reaches 200 degrees C then shut the wheel completely and control the burn speed on the bottom air intake. Generally it never gets hotter than about 300 degrees C. I'd have to really try to get it up to the temperatures you're talking about.

 

I'd be concerned there could be more damage to other parts of the stove than just the baffle plate that you can see at the moment.

[Ashes_Firewood]

This isn't good practice but there were a couple of times when we first got our stove that I put more logs in way too soon. The temperature started climbing rapidly so I opened the door fully to let the heat out and after a couple of minutes the temperature started to drop.

[forestgough]

whats that about the bottom vent being connected to outside via a pipe

[monkeybusiness]

20 minutes ago, forestgough said:

whats that about the bottom vent being connected to outside via a pipe

Sometimes stoves are set up that way, particularly in modern well sealed houses. Houses are that well sealed nowadays that you can’t get a draw unless you keep a window open (which kind of negates the point of running a stove!). 

You also don’t pull the warm air from inside the house into the stove and up/out of the chimney, you use cold air from outside. 

[Alycidon]

I have sent you a PM on the issue and probable cause;

 

Direct air ( air coming straight into the rear of the stove) is a good thing,  it ensures inlet air pressure always matches that at the top of the chimney thus preventing smoke back when the door is opened to re fuel.

 

If burning wood to light open all the air vents,  once going nicely close the vent under the fire and manage the fire with the secondary air lever only,  thats the one controlling the air coming down the inside of the glass.  Wood does not need air from below.

 

700 degrees  F for some time will seriously damage the stove,   run at no more than 500F.     Get the installers back before using it again.   Leave the stove cold for them,

 

A

[openspaceman]

13 hours ago, monkeybusiness said:

You also don’t pull the warm air from inside the house into the stove and up/out of the chimney, you use cold air from outside. 

I've not got anything against the idea, after all all modern gas boilers have a balanced flue to do this but you need 4 or 5 air changes an hour in any case so using air from the room just ensures some of this.

[openspaceman]

10 hours ago, Alycidon said:

700 degrees  F for some time will seriously damage the stove,   run at no more than 500F.

Have you turned american most, even oldies like me, have grown accustomed to using SI units.

[Dan burner man]

Thanks for the comments. Ive not used it recently. Asked the company to take a look.