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Dan burner man

Clearview 500 issues with over heating

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Hi,

 

I bought a clearview 500 several months back and have an issue, wonder if someone can help.

 

I follow the lighting instructions and open both vents until it's a light then close the wheel on the door and then adjust the bottom air intake to around half way in. 

 

Problem is no matter what I do the temperature seems to get too hot (6 to 700) even if I close off the air vent. 

 

It's meant some distortion has happened on the fire and suspect this might be why. Any ideas what causes this?

 

The vent at the bottom is connected by a alloy pipe to outside. 

 

Thanks 

 

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Is it a smoke control version? If so they can’t be shut all the way down I seem to recall.

Is your door adjusted and sealing properly? When cold you should be just able to slide a credit card in (with minor resistance) all the way around the edge. Any bigger gaps will stop you having control of the fire.

When lit and up to temperature what happens if you push the slide all the way in? It should slow the fire right down. 

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Hi,

The stove is a DEFRA approved version. My last DEFRA approved (smoke control) could be put out if the wheels were closed, morso squirrell. 

 

Over the last 2 weeks the stove metal in the middle of the door has dropped noticeably by maybe 3mm. It's distorted. I have a stove thermometer on it but still reaches 700 degrees with the wheel closed and the bottom air intake nearly closed. Is this normal?

 

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On the stoves I have had experience to use, once the stove is burning well, you should be able to shut all the dampers to the point the flames are extinguished and the fire will go out if left in this state. It will get very hot directly after shutting the dampers as you are retaining all the heat within the stove but then the glass will get sooty and the fire will go out.

So, with the pic you have put up, if that was my stove and I shut it down completely, the flames would go out in seconds and the fire would go from orange to deep red in a few minutes as you starve the combustion of air.

The only thing lacking is my experience of your particular stove.

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Close the wheel and the bottom vent fully and see what happens. I don’t think that it will go out if it is a DEFRA version, but I may be wrong. And check your door seals - you can adjust the hinges and latch if it isn’t sealing properly. 

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As per above, check the rope seal on the door using credit card or paper test, it could be that you have a lot of air getting through what should be a tight seal with the rope.

 

Where is your stove thermo located when you are getting those temps from it?

 

From my experience with Clearviews you should be able to close the front wheel once it is up to temp and get a nice burn that can be ignored for a long time with the bottom vent 3/4's of the way in.

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I have a hunter herald 14 and bought the optional thermostat control for it! I then fitted it the wrong way round and the hotter it got the more it opened and the hotter it got. So you definitely have an air leak some where

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1 hour ago, xdcx said:

As per above, check the rope seal on the door using credit card or paper test, it could be that you have a lot of air getting through what should be a tight seal with the rope.

 

I find with my Morso that if the door catch is not pushed in firmly it sucks air past the door seal which makes the fire run away.

 

With the modern stoves there is an air inlet above the firebed which is permanently open, this is so there is always enough secondary air to burn any offgas from the fire in a clean flame.

 

In older stoves you could choke off all the air and the heat in the firebed would pyrolyse  any remaining logs, the offgas then condensing as tarry soot on the glass and chimney.

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I have a clearview Pioneer 400, if I have the door not quite fully closed then I get a blast furnace type effect, which sounds something like what you are describing.  As above I'd guess you have a minor air leak in the door seal.

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