clearview 500 Clearview 500 issues with over heating

[Alycidon]

13 hours ago, openspaceman said:

Have you turned american most, even oldies like me, have grown accustomed to using SI units.

No but the original poster used 700 degrees as a temp,  no way could that be 700C.  I was just clarifying matters,

 

A

[openspaceman]

20 minutes ago, Alycidon said:

No but the original poster used 700 degrees as a temp,  no way could that be 700C.  I was just clarifying matters,

 

A

Fairy nuff I'd missed that but the OP hasn't said where the 700 degree temperature was recorded, I can easily reach 700C in a bed of glowing coals but agree a flue temperature that high would make the steel glow bright red.

[Dan burner man]

Thanks for all the comments. Still pretty sure something is wrong with this clearview 500 stove. It just burns way to agressively. My old morso was DEFRA approved and I could turn it all the way down.

 

1. I use paper, card, kindling to light it. Keep doors open until it gets going.

2. Close wheel and control temp with the stick. 

Seems to work fine but it always runs fairly hot, I can't get a slow burning flame and also fully closed down will not turn the stove off. It is defra approved however my brother's DEFRA approved stove(different brand) does close all off and also does have a slow burn.

 

Contacted the fitter who installed it. Said there is nothing they can do. Nothing wrong with it in their eyes. Contacted clearview. They think the dropped piece of metal is not detramental to the stove and they would leave it. They think that the excess temps and not enough control could be because of the flue height. It's a 4 story building, 3 floors high ceilings (Victorian ceilings so 3m high) and cellar. When I light it and have door open the door shakes with presumably the air pressure.

 

What do people recommend here?

1. Could it be the air box leaking more air?

2. Could it be the flue height and as we"re on a large hill it's causing more air to be sucked in?

3. Fault somewhere?

4. Nothing wrong?

 

Really guzzles the logs. Flue temp is always kept in the green too.

 

Thanks, dan

 

 

 

 

 

 

[monkeybusiness]

Is your door sealing properly? Have you checked/adjusted that? When cold close the door and try and slide a credit card in all the way around - it should be tight everywhere. Adjust the hinges and handle to take up any slack. 

[Chipperclown]

I currently have 2 of these fires and love them. Looking at your picture it doesn't appear you have a bed of ash built up so therefore you would have lots more air and quicker burning. I would say you need a few days worth of ash to make the fire burn more steady with good control. I only empty my ash after a few weeks.  I always light mine, leave the fire doors slightly open with the kindling and a few logs, for quite some time, then add just one well seasoned log. Once this log gets going then I add more and close the door. I only close the fire fully down ( but a half a turn back for some air to come in) when going to bed. In the morning both are still burning when opened up for new logs. I have flues on both fires and only burn seasoned wood.

[Dan burner man]

I have tried to leave loads of ash in the bottom. . Still burns quite hot....

 

The door seals have been checked. Used a piece of paper when cold and seems pretty good. To rule this out shall I replace the door seals?

 

Other than the door seals any other issues that could cause this?

[Chipperclown]

What area are you in?

[Dan burner man]

I live in Sheffield, south Yorkshire. I used a local company and in hindsight wouldn't have used as they sell the stove and aftercare is not something they care about.

 

The main issue would be for me it's using far too many logs, can't slow burn it at all. Wished I had bought a more efficient model like my morso squirrel.

[slim reaper]

1 hour ago, Dan burner man said:

I have tried to leave loads of ash in the bottom. . Still burns quite hot....

 

The door seals have been checked. Used a piece of paper when cold and seems pretty good. To rule this out shall I replace the door seals?

 

Other than the door seals any other issues that could cause this?

The first vision 500 I had used to burn hot, when the seals were adjusted cold with a  strip of a4 paper all round the door and ash pan .As the stove warmed up a gap opened up several mm wide at mid point of the upper door enough to see the flames through.

The store where I bought it changed the door but was still the same. After a lot of wrangling I got a new stove which has been perfect.

I would recheck the seals when hot

Edited December 30, 2020 by slim reaper

[Nopedigree]

I had a smoke control 500 25 or 30 years ago which had a collar on the slider to stop it being shut down too much but also the baffle plate was hollow with holes in. This added air into the top of the fire box to give a clean burn but there was no way of controlling that air flow, is yours like this or has the design changed over the years. If the same the high flue height may be the issue, the collar on the adjusting slider stick was only held in place with a grub screw, remove it which would allow a reduction in air availability?

 

NoPedigree