Husqvarna 357 rebuild

[Toad]

In another attempt to keep myself entertained and provide another useful tool at the end of it, I am going to rebuild a 357. 

 

I accidentally bought the crankshaft and crankshaft seal installation tool a while back as it was labelled incorrectly on Ebay so buying a knackered saw to go with it seemed to make sense.

 

My intention, as with the 371 I have is to rebuild the entire saw, fitting new bearings, seals and rubber components resulting in what should be for all intents and purposes a new saw which should fulfill my requirements for years to come. The base saw seems pretty good with what feels like great compression but a few knackered components requiring a good overhaul.

 

The first debate I have is that the saw currently has a 3/8 bar and chain. I'm going to replace the clutch drum, bearing and powermate so will only need to buy an oil pump pinion to convert it to 0.325. Looking at the excellent chainsawbars.co.uk site, the 0.325 bar and chain selection for this saw is both larger and significantly cheaper than the 3/8 and the difference in price in the bar would more than pay for the pinion, therefore it seems to make sense to convert. However, I already have a selection of files for 3/8 chain and although the cost of these files would be covered by the price difference of the bar, it would be more stuff to have knocking around the tool box. So, what would other people do? Stick with 3/8 or convert it. The saw will be used for firewood and general duties around the farm although we have both larger and smaller saws available if that makes any difference.

 

As I set about the stripping, cleaning and rebuilding I'll add photos if people are interested. Hopefully I'm going to find a few moments when the dishwasher isn't being monitored to stick the crankcase and plastics in to clean properly.

[jmac]

9 minutes ago, Toad said:

In another attempt to keep myself entertained and provide another useful tool at the end of it, I am going to rebuild a 357. 

 

I accidentally bought the crankshaft and crankshaft seal installation tool a while back as it was labelled incorrectly on Ebay so buying a knackered saw to go with it seemed to make sense.

 

My intention, as with the 371 I have is to rebuild the entire saw, fitting new bearings, seals and rubber components resulting in what should be for all intents and purposes a new saw which should fulfill my requirements for years to come. The base saw seems pretty good with what feels like great compression but a few knackered components requiring a good overhaul.

 

The first debate I have is that the saw currently has a 3/8 bar and chain. I'm going to replace the clutch drum, bearing and powermate so will only need to buy an oil pump pinion to convert it to 0.325. Looking at the excellent chainsawbars.co.uk site, the 0.325 bar and chain selection for this saw is both larger and significantly cheaper than the 3/8 and the difference in price in the bar would more than pay for the pinion, therefore it seems to make sense to convert. However, I already have a selection of files for 3/8 chain and although the cost of these files would be covered by the price difference of the bar, it would be more stuff to have knocking around the tool box. So, what would other people do? Stick with 3/8 or convert it. The saw will be used for firewood and general duties around the farm although we have both larger and smaller saws available if that makes any difference.

 

As I set about the stripping, cleaning and rebuilding I'll add photos if people are interested. Hopefully I'm going to find a few moments when the dishwasher isn't being monitored to stick the crankcase and plastics in to clean properly.

Pretty sure you only have to change the power mate and bar on the 357 to convert to run .325 chain. Mine came with .325 but I converted it to 3/8 th for brashing, the heavier chain stood up to the abuse better imo. I would go with .325 for firewood, but you can easy convert back to 3/8th if you keep the old parts.

Edited December 7, 2019 by jmac

[Stubby]

8 minutes ago, Toad said:

In another attempt to keep myself entertained and provide another useful tool at the end of it, I am going to rebuild a 357. 

 

I accidentally bought the crankshaft and crankshaft seal installation tool a while back as it was labelled incorrectly on Ebay so buying a knackered saw to go with it seemed to make sense.

 

My intention, as with the 371 I have is to rebuild the entire saw, fitting new bearings, seals and rubber components resulting in what should be for all intents and purposes a new saw which should fulfill my requirements for years to come. The base saw seems pretty good with what feels like great compression but a few knackered components requiring a good overhaul.

 

The first debate I have is that the saw currently has a 3/8 bar and chain. I'm going to replace the clutch drum, bearing and powermate so will only need to buy an oil pump pinion to convert it to 0.325. Looking at the excellent chainsawbars.co.uk site, the 0.325 bar and chain selection for this saw is both larger and significantly cheaper than the 3/8 and the difference in price in the bar would more than pay for the pinion, therefore it seems to make sense to convert. However, I already have a selection of files for 3/8 chain and although the cost of these files would be covered by the price difference of the bar, it would be more stuff to have knocking around the tool box. So, what would other people do? Stick with 3/8 or convert it. The saw will be used for firewood and general duties around the farm although we have both larger and smaller saws available if that makes any difference.

 

As I set about the stripping, cleaning and rebuilding I'll add photos if people are interested. Hopefully I'm going to find a few moments when the dishwasher isn't being monitored to stick the crankcase and plastics in to clean properly.

I would keep it at 3/8ths pitch . You already have the plastic worm wheel .  If you went .325 I think you need the different clutch drum ...

[woody paul]

I run a 357 on. 325 no problems with it, the other reason is run a 353 and a 346xp on. 325 so bars can be swapped if I need. 

[Toad]

Thanks for the responses. I was going to hold off doing anything with the saw until the new year and save putting anything on the credit card, but I got bored and ordered all of the parts i think i will need today.

 

All of the components for the engine have been ordered through L&S engineers, and I shopped around for a bar - there is one already on the saw, but I thought I'd go all out on renewing it. I'll order some exl chains through chainsawbars at some point in the new year. 

 

I decided to keep the 3/8 chain after all. I would have quite liked to try the new husky bars and chains, but it'll be less faffy when looking for files.

 

One thing I forgot to order was new crankcase stuffers. Should I look to replace them?

 

From reading the workshop manual I understand that the crankcase needs to be heated to release the crankshaft bearings rather than using a splitting tool like the 372 crankcase and then heated again to reinstall the new bearings.

[spudulike]

The 357 has stuffers, makes splitting them more difficult without the right tools.

[Toad]

8 hours ago, spudulike said:

The 357 has stuffers, makes splitting them more difficult without the right tools.

If you don't mind me asking, how do you split the cases? Do I remember you having something that attaches to the bar studs to press the clutch side free?

[spudulike]

Yup, made it myself and stuck a 6mm drill straight through the fleshy part of my thumb as a reward. You need to either have the factory tool or get inventive for the flywheel side!

[Toad]

Ooops, chafey!

 

I looked at the factory tool earlier. Might buy one and wang it up on ebay once used. 

[Toad]

I've ordered the factory tool, although it will take a bit longer to arrive than expected.

 

I've recieved all of the other parts I've ordered but realised the other night that while it had been supplied with a crankcase gasket, and there were actually two in the box when I opened it, one was for a 346 and the other for a 372 when I looked properly at them, so I've had to order one subsequent to all of the other parts.

 

I started stripping down the donor crankcase with the good crankshaft in it earlier to get a taste of how they are constructed vs the 372, seems fairly straightforward just coarse threaded screws rather than the fine thread on the larger saws. Had to make a flywheel puller as the one I had was slightly too narrow to work but not too concerned about that.

 

The piston and cylinder off the donor crankcase look to be in good condition, so I'll squirrel them away in my spares pile in case of issues in the future.