Slippery wooden bridge- suggestions?

[nepia]

An idea I hadn't considered, as I didn't know acrylic bed liner existed! Thanks. I take it that it isn't a cheap option as you enquired about budget?

 

Mind you I don't mind too much what the cost is if I can minimise the number of 'bambi on ice' moments I have to go through!

 

 

Product info but not price.

 

Applications for Protecta-kote (or Protectacote) the advanced anti-slip coating

[cousin jack]

How big is the bridge? Length, width, and what are the bearers made of, wood or steel ?

[Graham]

Non Slip Shop Gallery

[skyhuck]

Lots of good advice here!!!!!!!!

 

Now you have sorted the slip risk, I think we need to address the REAL risk, that I cannot believe no one has yet mentioned!!! Have you checked for Trolls under this bridge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Graham]

Lots of good advice here!!!!!!!!

 

Now you have sorted the slip risk, I think we need to address the REAL risk, that I cannot believe no one has yet mentioned!!! Have you checked for Trolls under this bridge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Don't be fooled by the cuteness. Nasty little things.

[Dave Martin]

Our horsy owners are usually married to lawyers:biggrin:

 

Err no we`re not ... your getting us mixed up with the poncy tally ho brigade

[detritus21]

Another option is stable matting cut to fit. Basically very heavy suty rubber matting with nobbles on it. The council used it on a bridge near me and it is one of the best non slip applications I've seen. You can usually get 6 foot by 4 foot sheets for 20 to 40 pounds.

[s.varty]

Any suggestions for making a wooden bridge less slippery? I've had a couple of ideas but hoped someone on here might come up with another option. It's ok-ish when dry but awful in the wet and ice. It's made of large planks with ridges in them, it is about 2m wide and 4 or 5 metres long. It's about 10 years old and is getting noticeably worse recently, I guess as the ridges wear down. Not a cheap bridge so replacing not an option.

 

Sorry if 've posted this in the wrong place, wasn't sure where to put it.

 

Hi, i used to work on the canals in london and on the mooring sites we used to use a non slip compound on the wooden structures. It was made by a company called MMP tel: 01423889441 fax:01423889866 e.mail: [email protected] internet: ITW MMP . They are based in north yorkshire. Basically it comes in 3 tins 1 resin 1hardener mix both together paint it on the required surface , last tin is fine aggregate and sprinkle on your painted surface, leave to dry , thats it.

[Frimsley]

I like the weldmesh and EML suggestions. Chicken wire breaks too easily and then the sharp edges become a hazard themselves.

 

We've used compounds mixed with sand in the past. Not sure about PVA - I don't think it's waterproof. A problem with an already slippery, 10 year old bridge is getting the surface clean enough for the compounds to stick to in a way that is going to last. I think weldmesh would be a lot simpler.

 

A PROW is not generally owned by, or even maintained by the Highways Authority. Unless it's adopted as a highway maintained at public expense it is down to the land owner. As for liability, if you've spotted the problem and don't do anything, you're in trouble. If you take reasonable, practical steps to minimise the risk, you're clear. You don't have to make everything safe - just do what is reasonable and practical to keep risk down.

 

I often find myself advising people to keep risk in perspective and suggesting that they may be over stating it. In this area though, perhaps not. A large landowner I'm particularly familiar with has had a number of accidents leading to claims in the past few years - quite a normal situation for a large land owner. Interestingly though, all of them have involved falls on slippery wooden surfaces. So this is a real risk that does need addressing.

[josharb87]

i built and repaired literally hundreds of ATV and foot bridges, by far the best was the mesh niftysteve mentioned, on the ATV bridges we just cut down the middle with a grinder, and stapled them on inline with the wheel tracks, the foot bridges, stapled on to within 6inch of the edge. chicken wire is too loose, not enough volume of grip, frays easily and becomes a mess, weld mesh is harder to apply well, and depending on the build of the bridge, wont follow contours aswell

 

 

pics of ATV bridge work with the mesh following the bridge contours

 

 

 

Edited December 30, 2009 by josharb87