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Oak Bed.


trigger_andy
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So my Daughters been nagging me for over two years to build her a bed. Finally getting around to it, and more importantly have the timber to do so dry enough. I Milled the Oak with my Alaskan a couple of years now and dried it in Polly Tunnel. The Slabs are 15% moisture now, but Im thinking this will be ok in my old single glazed ice box of a farm house. :D 

 

Did not really have a plan, just googled Oak Slab Beds and saved a few idea's, here's how far Ive got as of now. Took me a couple of days to re-saw the Slabs on the Mill to get them flat and level and Mill all the other items like posts. (My Back is buggered so can only do so much a day.) Then left them all for 4 weeks whilst I went off-shore to settle. Then another 2 days just sanding and sanding and sanding. :/ 

 

The last two days have seen me measuring, marking, scratching my head, then running the lines out and starting again. :D But I've managed to mock up the Headboard. All looking square and true with minimal (for me) gaps. Maxed out and then some my new hobby Morticer. I think the max is 100mm but I managed to get 105mm on with some jiggery pokery. Ideally Id have liked the tennons to have sunk 3/4 of the way through the 4" Posts and drilled the Posts from the front for 1/2" Dowels but the Morticer does not have the reach. So I'll have to drill through from the sides and screw it together but add the 1/2" Dowels for show. 

 

 

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3 hours ago, topchippyles said:

Dowel the tennon joints andy  as 15% will keep drying 

 

The Tennons are only 50% of the way through. Thinking about it now I should have carried the Mortice on with the chisel so the pocket was deeper, but too late now.  For me to Dowel it now Id have to be 20-25% of the way in and Im worried it would look really odd being off center. I thought if I screwed it from the side I could tighten as required. 

 

What you you recommend?

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Put two sets of dowels in, one a third of the way across (holds your mortice which is where your strength will come from) and then a second dowel two thirds across, but obviously that dowel will be a dummy. All will look equal and match up on the eye.

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Put two sets of dowels in, one a third of the way across (holds your mortice which is where your strength will come from) and then a second dowel two thirds across, but obviously that dowel will be a dummy. All will look equal and match up on the eye.



Now that’s a good idea! Will do that, cheers! :)
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4 hours ago, trigger_andy said:

 

The Tennons are only 50% of the way through. Thinking about it now I should have carried the Mortice on with the chisel so the pocket was deeper, but too late now.  For me to Dowel it now Id have to be 20-25% of the way in and Im worried it would look really odd being off center. I thought if I screwed it from the side I could tighten as required. 

 

What you you recommend?

Do as mentioned andy and the dowels will look great as that is how the older way of woodworking was done,You need to dowel those joints mate or they will shrink at 15% moisture i can promise you ?

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Just now, topchippyles said:

Do as mentioned andy and the dowels will look great as that is how the older way of woodworking was done,You need to dowel those joints mate or they will shrink at 15% moisture i can promise you ?

Cheers Les. :) 

 

Yes, I had planned on using Dowels and have already bought a few meters of 1/2" and 3/8" (to see what looks best) But Ratmans dual Dowel idea makes sense and I'll give that a bash. :D All kinda new to me so learning as I go. 

 

Yesterday I popped over to Norway for a MRI of my lower back and neck, was emailed the pictures within 3 hours and also sent to the Doc. Not bad at all. 

 

Had a few hours at it this morning. So hopefully will get the Footboard mocked up by the time I have to stop playing. :D 

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