What to do with a broken 346xp?

[MikePepler]

Hi All,

 

I've been lurking here for a long time, reading interesting discussions. However, I've got a question I'd be interested in people's views on.

 

I've got a couple of 346XP (newer version) chainsaws, one bought in 2007 and the other in 2009. Having recently bought a 536LiXP, I decided to sell the older 346XP to a friend who was just starting in forestry. But, 6 weeks later it stopped dead while he was cleaning up a tree stump, and the engine wouldn't turn over. My assumption was not enough mixing oil, but we took it apart last night and found the piston had broken (see attached images), with no sign of overheating damage to piston or cylinder.

 

So... I'm refunding him his money, as I sold it thinking it was working but promised that if it died in the near future I'd pay him back. And now I'm not sure what to do from the following options:

1. Have a go at repairing it myself. Problem here is I don't really need it (which is why I'd sold it) - I have a working 346XP, a larger petrol saw too and am trying to use the electric one as much as possible.

2. Keep it for spares for my other 346XP. But then I may not use any of the parts for years...

3. Sell it as it is for someone to repair or use for parts. It was in working order in all other respects.

4. Sell parts from it on ebay. (more money that option 3, but a lot more work)

 

Any thoughts greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks, Mike

[billpierce]

What ever you do sods law will apply. Sell it and you'll instantly need a new coil/ starter mech/ carb/ brake handle. Keep it (I have a 357 in bits) and you occasionally pinch a bolt off it but ultimately will just take up space.

Personally buy the time you have broken it for parts, listed the its and answered 1 million irritating questions about it with your " what's the best price" etc you'll be better off selling it whole as spares or repair.

I'd probably give it a real thorough clean out ( all those shreds of metal out of crank bearings ) slap a meteor p and p on ( assuming the current pot is goosed?) Vac test and keep it as a working spare ( inevitably more useful) or sell it as working.

Dont know how much it's worth in that state. If given the option I wouldnt want to pay more than 50 quid. New p and p required and possibly big end bearings/crank issues

Good luck!

[Stubby]

Send it to Spud for a rebuild and port job then sell the other as a working saw . They are saught after , being non AT and the last of the 3 series saws .

[MikePepler]

3 minutes ago, billpierce said:

I'd probably give it a real thorough clean out ( all those shreds of metal out of crank bearings ) slap a meteor p and p on ( assuming the current pot is goosed?) Vac test and keep it as a working spare ( inevitably more useful) or sell it as working.

Dont know how much it's worth in that state. If given the option I wouldnt want to pay more than 50 quid. New p and p required and possibly big end bearings/crank issues
 

Thanks Bill, that's very helpful! A thorough clean is certainly needed, or it would be trashed again the first time I fired it up. The pot is visually OK, but it would make sense to replace it at the same time as the piston. Is there a good place in the UK to buy the Meteor kit if I go down that route? Most of the stuff on ebay is other brands, with the Meteor stuff coming from the USA. There also seems to be a range of cylinder bores available...

[MikePepler]

5 minutes ago, Stubby said:

Send it to Spud for a rebuild and port job then sell the other as a working saw . They are saught after , being non AT and the last of the 3 series saws .

Yeah, I gathered they are popular saws, and I've certainly enjoyed using them over the years. Roughly what does a port and rebuild cost, and what are the benefits in use?

[Stubby]

8 minutes ago, MikePepler said:

Yeah, I gathered they are popular saws, and I've certainly enjoyed using them over the years. Roughly what does a port and rebuild cost, and what are the benefits in use?

You would have to get a price from Spud .  The benefits are ( as I see them )  faster cutting so more efficient probably more reliable , runs a bit cooler as its less restricted and that irresistible " zip " that you get from the smaller ported saws . I have a 2004 that spud ported for me way back .  One day whilst coppicing  some hazel I picked up my mates saw and he took mine . I thought there was something wrong with the saw till I realized I had his standard one . I run it on a 15" full chiz driven by an 8 pin .

Edited March 14, 2019 by Stubby

[billpierce]

Worth a good look at this pot as if this is salvageable the OEM one is the best quality one you'll get. There is a meteor stockist in Greece who is reliable, although cant see it listed from him on Ebay.

 

There are 2 sizes one for the older 40somethings cc 346s and one for the new silver side cover 50cc ones. Cant remember exact bore diameters but easy enough to Google.

 

You'll save 80quid atleast if your pot is reusable. 

 

 

[MikePepler]

4 minutes ago, billpierce said:

Worth a good look at this pot as if this is salvageable the OEM one is the best quality one you'll get. There is a meteor stockist in Greece who is reliable, although cant see it listed from him on Ebay.

 

There are 2 sizes one for the older 40somethings cc 346s and one for the new silver side cover 50cc ones. Cant remember exact bore diameters but easy enough to Google.

 

You'll save 80quid atleast if your pot is reusable. 

 

 

Thanks Bill, and @Stubby, I've emailed @spudulike to ask for some details. I've got the newer model, with the silver side. I guess if I decide to send it to Spud for porting he may be able to advise on the pot.

[openspaceman]

14 minutes ago, billpierce said:

Worth a good look at this pot as if this is salvageable the OEM one is the best quality one you'll get.

Agreed and I doubt the bore will have suffered much as the ring is not seized and not broken

Edited March 14, 2019 by openspaceman
spelling

[daveindales]

Keep it for spares for the other saw. That's what I tend to do