Firewood Processor Differences(+?-points) Again ???

[rovers90]

As there are so many makes of firewood processor on the market now,please can you give me some quidance on the main differences between them and the points to consider when buying one, to process at max 600cu mtrs a year.

I do not mind paying for quality of build, BUT I do not like paying a premium for supposedly high end brand, when in fact it is no better built than a lesser known make of machine.

 

Chainsaw type is fine Cessna, mine uses .325 so pretty standard.

I have a Palax KS35 Ergo and in 6 years it has only needed two springs for the ram lever, two new studs for the bar and a bit welding.

It doesn't run via belts either.

Look at a large input feed, mine will do 14 inch diameter, some go higher.

After 6 years I would certainly say it would be easier having all operating controls in front of you (mine has ram lever at the back, and height adjust for the splitting blade to the right).

Also, now realise a reverse drive infeed conveyor would be useful but not sure if these are available.

Be wary of what people tell you they can produce per hour etc.

Log deck certainly handy (a lot of people place these behind, mine's in front - takes up less space and lot easier pulling logs towards you).

If you narrow it down to a few brands, see if you can visit owners for a demo.

 

Good luck!

[william petts]

Yes sorry should have said, it does have a harvester bar which is more heavy duty and longer lasting than a chainsaw bar as for it nipping or jamming, as you can control the speed of the chain u can ease the blade through the log thus eliminating most jams etc, where as a circular saw is a constant speed. Only downfall on the dalen is silly things like the conveyor is a bit narrow and it's prow to letting bits get caught in the roller, but they're new processor the 2060 has seemed to a dress these issues

[SbTVF]

As with any chainsaw, if you keep the chain sharp and the bar dressed up and free from burrs on the cutting side it'll very rarely jam unless the log moves. Tajfun and other brands have log clamps to minimise this occurrence also. I can't possibly see how circular blades are cheaper in the long run that chains, even if I bought 20 chains and 10 bars it'd still be cheaper than a new circular saw.

 

 

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[Woodworks]

Ours is a chainsaw type. Change chains about once a day if the wood is clean 5min job. There is plenty of difference in build quality from what I have seen with the Posch and Dalen being the sturdiest looking machines. To be fair the Trakmet looks built like a tank and cheap but maybe not the most thought out machine. One of the reasons for us going for the Farmi was the log lifter. No need for a log deck just set some poles up as a ramp down to the log lifter and away you go. As said wide entry is useful for handling misshapen lengths. As William mentions a manually operated bar can be advantageous when processing small material as you don't have to wait while it goes through it's cycle. Another reason for us going for the Farmi is the ease of which it can be used as a splitter especially if a few guards accentually fall off

[TimberCutterDartmoor]

Funny. I've put a good 1000 ton through my circular saw (Japa) and it's only just starting to lose it edge.

[GlobalNewark]

The Multitek with he circular saw are far superior to the saw bar, a spare circular saw has only been sold once and still sits on the floor from new. Personally we have never changed a tooth and they say up to a 1000hrs can be achieved. All machines have a wide trough for crooked timber, a hydraulic folding log deck as std and the splitters start at 20tonne.

[Logged On]

Log clamp just before the blade.....

 

A good example of how good ours is.....

 

Get a pencil and hold it down with your little finger on a flat surface (desk perhaps), then just push the end of it.

 

Doesn't take much to still move the pencil does it....?

[gdh]

Do you have one of the clamps with a roller on? I find the curved ones like ours grip better, especially with the teeth.

 

Edited October 28, 2016 by gdh

[SbTVF]

Do you have one of the clamps with a roller on? I find the curved ones like ours grip better, especially with the teeth.

 

 

 

 

It's good for anything down to about 4" diameter. Anything smaller and even if you get it right under it it still moves as the saw comes down. I think it's the curve of the end of the infeed belt that's allowing movement to be honest though.

 

 

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[Logsnstuff]

we cut 3-500 ton a season and only use 1 circular for that it costs roughly £60 a season to re tip and sharpen. I have no experience of chainsaw processor to see how it compares.

9 years had the posch 3200 and other than usual wear&replace the only mechanical failure was a pinhole in the weld on the splitting ram after 8 years.