Spec for forestry guarding on a tractor

[monkeybusiness]

Watch this if you want to be green with envy of a beautiful garden valtra

I'm going to steel the idea for the bottom step on big drive chain!

 

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Lot of work gone into that - looks lovely!

 

I can't help thinking that some of those mods might cause some issues that they were designed to prevent - branches caught behind the exhaust and intake guards when reversing could damage what they are protecting for example. It does look very well guarded when going forwards though!

[Gray git]

That's the problem with modern tractors, too many sticky out bits made of plastic never intended to go anywhere need a tree.

Nothing ever comes close to the robustness of the likes of the old county's for being pure tanks in the woods, so much easier to guard as you could bolt direct to most of them instead of having to bring everything up from virtually ground level.

It won't matter how well guarded a machine is the forest will still try and destroy it, more down to operator awareness, skill and a good helping of luck.

We ran a bog standard ford 7810 on an estate in the woods for years without a problem winching and forwarding and less than a week after getting a brand new guarded valtra the head forester put a hole in the tank dumping all the fuel and stranding it in middle of a wood miles from anywhere.

 

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[woody paul]

To right guarding will not stop everything. My old boss had a fordson major with just a thick plate of steel on the front and that thing would drive through most stuff.

[aspenarb]

A fair bit of thought needs to go into guarding, belly plates need to be designed to allow access to service items down both sides of the trans/engine and be strong enough to support the full weight of the tractor/implements. Most tractors only have three locations to hang the bellyplates/cages, the rear axle, the lugs on the gearbox under the front of the cab and the front. When building the cage you need to be mindful that it needs to stand completely independently of the rubber mounted cab, any tabs or lugs connecting the cage to the cab will cause problems unless isolated with rubber mountings.

 

Bob

[aspenarb]

Inch thick winch mount/deflector to protect front axle

 

 

inch gap between any part of cage and cab.

 

 

 

 

 

[andy cobb]

Hi everyone, thought I'd resurrect this old thread as I'm after a bit of advice.

looking at putting some guarding on my 8210 in the new year and wondering how best to protect the exhaust which is right on the nose end.

thinking about mounting the silencer on the underside of the bar that spans between the cab and the nose cone then linking the manifold and silencer with some flexi twin wall tube.

any ideas, criticism, constructive or not, welcomed. Pics of similar set ups would be grand.

 

p.s I know big old fords are numb as buggery in the woods but it's a weakness I have.

 

thanks - Andy 

pps merry Xmas everybody!!

[Brushcutter]

Normal thing is to bend the pipe and run it down the bonnet but the Valmets have the silencer under the bonnet. Best place to put it is up the side of the cab and link it with some flexible pipe like you say.  If you can't mount it there like you said under the brash bar would be an idea place.