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Thanks Mark, I was hoping you had some insight into these Stihl battery thingies!

I will have another look over the next few days. It looks quite difficult to get to each end of each battery. Kram / openspaceman What do you think about this : https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+bring+a+cordless+battery+back+to+life&rlz=1C1CHBD_en-GBGB899GB899&oq=How+to+wake+up+a+cordless+battery&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqDQgEEAAYhgMYgAQYigUyBggAEEUYOTIICAEQABgWGB4yCAgCEAAYFhgeMggIAxAAGBYYHjINCAQQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAUQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAYQABiGAxiABBiKBTINCAcQABiGAxiABBiKBTIKCAgQABiABBiiBDIKCAkQABiABBiiBNIBCTI2MzU5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:271e8dc7,vid:aoumXaIhuNI,st:0

If you do convert it make sure you get a flywheel from a non mtronic as they are different to the mtronic ones.

I've only just seen this thread as I'm not as active on here as I should be. TBH I cant offer any advice repairing the battery as unfortunately they are throw away items once they fail. There are no workshop manuals on how to repair them and no spare parts apart from a few stickers and replacement cases on the Husky batteries. I've done a few tests on batteries across the stihl, husky and echo range of batteries but that's only been to satisfy a warranty claim. There will be companies that can repair these batteries but I don't know of any. Sorry I couldn't be of any further help but messing about with lithium batteries when you don't know what your doing can end up fairly messy from some of the videos I've seen!

Mick and I regularly exchange media through a derelict but still-encrypted grindr server. I keep him supplied with his favourite type of Northern Irish pornography (fcking Brexit). He was recently kind enough to send this back, which he's been listening to on repeat apparently.

True, also might be worth putting it back together, putting a bit of lipstick on it, and selling it on for what I paid for it, buying a digger and subbing out the grinding.

How naive to think that the EU might just wave us back in! We will have to have the euro and we won’t retain the rebate either. The opt outs will be gone as well. They think they will have us over a barrel. So no-one hold your breath!

Maybe worth considering through-drilling a couple (particularly if some have damaged threads now, which may be likely for the last few that let go) and replacing with longer bolts and visible nylocks that you’d at least be able to see?

For anyone interested in nuts and bolts, I can recommend this bloke's articles. They've been enormously useful to me over my past few months' impersonation of an industrial designer. https://www.boltscience.com/pages/info.htm

Went back to TW, got a 230. Best chipper pound for pound I’ve ever had, everyday it amazes me.

We have a tracked 235 cant fault it, I would not go back to another brand , plus points is the galv chassis is strong enough for a decent winch which I think if you have a tracked machine it is a game changer , I know a few makes that have folded and bent when they have had winches fitted , they go on forever and although overland are the other end of the country to me we find them bang on for help and parts … they are very agricultural machines so easy to work on if you have some mechanical aptitude. problem I think is with forst Is once you have bought in to them the resale is so bad you are kind of stuck with them as no one else really wants to touch them … which is fine I guess if your happy with the machine and your trading in for another once the warranty has ran out.

What are you running now Mick? still got the Forst or changed it?

Not doable, they’re only accessible under the machine, after taking off a protective plate, not visible only ‘feelable’

On the plus side Mick I have an adjustable spanner I can let you have for a very good price. It’s a special one that does both metric and imperial.

Ah, ok. I’ve misunderstood - for some reason I thought it was a new machine. Once refitted will they be visible in operation? Might be an idea to put a line of paint across them if so to make it easy to keep an eye on.

It’s not a new machine, far from it. 99% of slews get regular grease and work without any issues for years. But yes, thread lock during assembly would have been better. It doesn’t seem to be a super robust design to be honest, bolts too short, would have better if they’d come through the slew to nuts accessible and visible for the operator/owner.

@Fatboy2017 battery packs are connected like this. The thin wires are for the BMS to monitor and adjust the cells and keep the voltage within limits. Your pack has 10 cells in series, so imagine that diagram went upto 10 and the thick red wire is connected on 10. Except the pack is doubled, so theres a other 10 cells that are connected exactly the same - so cell1 in diagram is two cells.

I bet the next person it happens to could have now! I’d have thought critical bolts should be checked with a torque wrench at PDI? If there is nothing in the operator’s manual to suggest re-torquing at a set interval (which you subsequently haven’t done) then it looks like a manufacturing fault to me. Did someone forget to use thread lock during assembly possibly?

Schliesing are great chippers and last forever ,main dealer near reading though so a fair way from you

See a good few Försts over here now. Very proactive selling and marketing.

Been on the lock jack for a long time drt. Would like some thing that goes both ways, wife isn't interested.

Be interested to here your findings.

Tbf, no one could have foreseen this.

An apologetic mechanic or just a bag full of bolts?!

If you want a trouble free Först,dont you buy a Jensen?