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On weight, the fluffy bits of trees generally weigh less than tree blokes think. And you still underestimated it. Not by much but you still came down on the wrong side so get out of that habit. Be wrong the other way. This should be your main wake up call. You haven't built, "What if I'm wrong?" into your strategy. You need to or you'll break something expensive and look a twat. Worse, you'll be a twat. Small pieces = small problems. I've rigged the world and in your example, I'd have still gone a few feet higher and done it in three or four piffling pieces. Those pieces could have been slung up so you cut and catch one, see how the rigging point feels, cut another, make sure it's still OK and so on. You can do things like bundle a few up and lower them in a loop, then pull the loop through and have your rope back. No-groundsman tactics. If you had to to take it in one, you should have involved the main stem to strengthen the final rigging point. I generally look for a main point in strong, central wood and a redirect over the best drop zone. You'll find those points in honestly 95% of trees. You were basically only using the redirect point. Weak without the context of a main point. Your current learning style reminds me of me. I got by on wit and feel and I got by well but what I didn't do was engage in the analytical and theoretical learning early enough. If I'd devoted some effort to the stuff that looks like bollocksy compliance from the get go, I'd have got better, faster. MBL, WLL etc is more than just bollocksy compliance. It's real and important. And it's also pretty easy once you decide to learn it. Now is a great time to decide to make your rigging decisions unimpeachable. If you work by yourself, you're going to have to learn some natural crotch (and other up-tree friction tricks). You should learn it anyway. It's a key skill. The rope for natural crotch is 3 strand. Get some of that first. Owning a length of 16mm double braid without the rest of the skill, people and ancillary gear to utilise it is just spending £150 to look like a billy big bollocks tree man with a heavy rope bag.

they are on ebay (from US so not sure if there are import restrictions) 12 BUR OAK ACORNS - Quercus macrocarpa | eBay UK WWW.EBAY.CO.UK These are live acorns are for growing trees. I have the largest selection of acorns on E bay. Over 20 + species. Its fringed acorns are food for wildlife. A very long-lived tree. Edible...

Yes we do use google, however we work nationwide and have had some good connections through these kind of forums and other socials, resulting in creating great relationships with companies.

Thanks for comment. Two or more suggestions for bearing - ok, better get over my laziness then …. Blow by past the piston maybe?

I would like to get some burr oak acorns to grow on - anyone got some they could post for the price of a beer? Quercus macrocarpa - Wikipedia EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG

I would pack some soil into the bandage lower down and reduce the height of the bandage over time - use you eyes to judge. If the roots are solid then you may get bark regeneration.Reduce the demand on the roots / bark for water by keeping the leaf down. I expect this will be an experiment rather than a success story but I think the chances are good. TBH it could be saved - but really the lesson has been learnt, don't strim / only strim with protection round the stem. Back up is let the plants either side fill the gap - they will, longer term grow some cuttings on and look to replace - realistically this is going to take more time. Personally I would try and replant -you will disturb the roots of the plants either side - a dig around the roots and see if this supposition is correct.

I give up. Buy whatever feels nicer in your hands. Thank God i put my helmet on.

So back onto the subject, which rope should I buy? I am thinking a 16mm 50m. I got one of the arb surplus rope end bags, it has a good sample of 5m rigging ropes. English braids 14, 16 and 20mm, look decent. Stein Omega 12, seems ok but only 12mm Stein Omega 16 and 20mm. Very soft cover, nice on the hands as a pull rope but cant see it being very abrasion resistant.

Ah, I did start replying but it got lost when I replied to someone else.. I even illistrated a crude picture! In the tree I estimated each small section and added up the weights. Afterwards on the ground I half arsed attempted to lift it by hand, heavier than expected by couldnt say with any accuracy whilst theres logs on it. Blue are slings, yellow steel biners, red the lowering rope, and purple is the unintended path that the rope fell, reducing the swing I had intended to give it, adding a lot of friction.

Weird. It looks man made to me, of some description. Too shiny to be tree resin from inside a hollow branch. More like plastic resin. What does it smell like when you cut or abrade it?

@kram Not sure if you didn't see this or did see it and ignored me because you thought I was going to bray you over the head with whatever you said like the prevailing sentiment of this thread. Did in fact have something constructive to add if you're interested.

Mick, at home, wearing this, protesting too much.

Any members had experience of 5th wheel caravans? Cost of insurance? Hints and tips?

He gets to pilot the drone and choose the colour of the smoke flare. BOOM!💪

Behave

Looks like the main bearing cage has failed to me. The big end hasn't overheated and that blackening on the lobes looks to me to be too much oil or overly rich running.

Nearly as bad as ivy.

From memory, English Braids isn't the strongest. I use it because I like the colour. What's the £75 one, Joe?

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Dastardly stuff in the main by the look of it. Bracken - Wikipedia EN.M.WIKIPEDIA.ORG

Dunno I’m a snob and only use English braids Joe for my rigging 🫣