kram

I have £50 Fakita 6" single handed pruning saw. I was after something extremely light and its 1.2kg including the battery. I did intend to get a brushless one but misread the listing and it has a 775 DC motor. I was going to return it but kept it for the two decent enough batteries. It proved itself one day I only had the 2511 or this and had to cut a low stump. Motor is big enough that its not likely to burn out and has reasonable power. I also suggest an electric finger chopper, very good if the cuts are all under 40mm. I have done a few fruit trees entirely with it. I regret not getting one with a pole extension! Be very careful where you have your fingers! The finger chopper is also a Fakita. Makita do make them but at a ridiculous price £600+ and with a lower jaw capacity, so this is likely better. It is great for trimming ivy without damaging bark on a tree.

Do you have a link to the Bahco? Is it a pruning tool or just a pole? I quite often use a throw ball in the tree to reach limbs that I cant throw a normal rope to. We have a 4 meter Fiskars UP86/UPX86 pole pruner which is great for pruning small stuff, grabbing a rope or ball after throwing. Also very handy to retrieve branches that should not have fallen on the wrong side of a customers fence. Saved me a few, would be embarrasing knocks on neghbours doors to gain access to tidy up...

Drill what holes? In the new Stihl bar? If I have to get a replacement bar I'll go for the farmertec Holzfforma® Pro 10inch 1/4 .043 56DL Guide Bar For Stihl carving chainsaws mini chainsaws and many pole chainsaws replace OEM 3005-008-3403 from China manufacturer - Farmertec WWW.FARMERTEC.COM Holzfforma® Pro 10inch 1/4 .043 56DL Guide Bar For Stihl carving chainsaws mini chainsaws and many pole chainsaws replace OEM...

I am very happy with my G372XP. Some minor issues with the original tank but they sent me a good replacement and has ran perfectly since. Had a reasonable amount of use this year blocking down larger trunks. Lots of power. Theres very little weight or size saving on a smaller model so just get the 72cc. Pardon our interruption... WWW.EBAY.CO.UK 71cc Holzfforma® Orange Dark Gray G372 Gasoline Chain Saw Power Head 50mm Bore Without Guide Bar and Chain Top Quality By Farmertec All Parts Are For Husqvarna 372XP Chainsaw from China manufacturer - Farmertec WWW.FARMERTEC.COM 71cc Holzfforma® Orange Dark Gray G372 Gasoline Chain Saw Power Head 50mm Bore Without Guide Bar and Chain Top Quality By...

Saw this in the comments So hold off if wanting to buy a new rope runner 😆

Fair enough I will get one. I see the PM3 1/4" - is that the correct one? is listed as micro chisel which may be near enough full chisel to get the 10% they claim. Even so it is more cutting surface area in the wood at any time which eats power. Where is the best place to buy one? And chains in general for that matter. I'm going to get a 3/8LP FC anyway to try. However I dont see that I need a new bar. Stihl dont do it in 60DL so I'll get a 12" 64DL? and shorten it.

I did buy one for use as a cinching pole anchor but not using it, its not in my climbing kit bag at the moment. I have no worries about the safety of it, they had a few recalls already. Shortly after buying I saw this video. It works very well, the rings stay permenetly on my ropes, nothing to be dropped like a ultra or quicky. Perhaps the same will work for a base anchor? I dont use them.

Dont think it will be any different to the standard TESC. Cuts better you say? Its semi chisel, 1/4" pitch so more cutters in the wood and less efficient than a 3/8" full chisel. More cutters to be sharpened too. Carving bar is lighter. Narrow nose is useful for topping cuts and delicate pruning. Tho the standard bar on my mates MS151T is near enough the same size/shape as the carving bar anyway. The standard TES bar has a bigger nose. My carving bar is showing near zero wear after quite a lot of use, so I cant see a situation where the standard bar would be an advantage.

For what advantage? Near enough the same as the original TESC kit. @Joe Newtonr are not clutches a left hand thread so if anything they will tighten when reved or loaded?! It'll come off you run without a bar and kill the engine after revving to stop it or shut the throttle too quick from full speed - atleast if it was only hand tight, once its been cutting it should be tight as it'll get.

Perhaps I am mistaken, but have seen pictures of damage caused by a failed clutch. I assume it can occur if it becomes unbalanced, say if a spring broke or fell out. Over speeding too, I was warned never to run/test a saw without a bar and chain. Anyway back to chains. A 3/8LP sprocket has arrived and I plan to try the 2511 with a Stihl full chisel chain, preferably if I can I will keep using the narrow nose 10" carving bars. The nose radius might be too small for the cutter length in which case the rear of cutter will rub a bit like a high raker, so it wont do bore cuts. It should still cut normally away from the nose and after a few sharpenings, would be ok. I have a spare .050" bar so nothing lost by trying. I was looking at the Speedcut Nano system but they appear to be semi chisel, and a small saw like this could use the extra cutting efficiency. Would anyone know what length I need? Otherwise I can measure up a spare chain - but that means swapping the sprocket, which is a pain while its in daily use.. I could order a long one and shorten as needed, but prefer not to.

The problem is you are now aware you have an arsehole of a neighbour. You could play the fun game of, see whos a bigger arsehole. If it doesnt cost him, he will do it again, or worse. He has gone well past the boundry with that, although it wouldnt have looked too good, he has gone too far. The law on boundry trees says they can cut, but they cant force you to pay for the cut or to take back any waste. I'd be chucking it back over, speared into his lawn in a circle and leave a turd in the centre.

Thats quite a lot ! How do you know when the clutch springs are done? One of the possible situations with a chainsaw that scares me greatly is a clutch explosion!

Ah, do you have a photo from before it was cut? Looks like they have cut to the boundry which they are fully entitled to do. You can see it has previously been cut hard on your side so all of the growth is on the boundry. Remove and start again.

Add the photo here please? If it was a good, un butchered tree, and it has been pollarded, it could become a rubbish tree in that it will need regular maintence, as it will have greatly increased growth along with weakness and much higher risk of decay. Generally it will need cutting again within a few years, but most home owners will ignore it for 10 or so due to the cost. That is not to say that pollards are always bad, similarly if it has been done before, you will just have to accept it as it is. Make a case against them in the small claims court, as their action will cost you a great amount of money in the future. As a basis for your claim, get a quote for the tree to be removed and replaced with an equal sized tree using a tree spade (£££££££) and the recurring cost of a high maintence pollarded tree.

Brushed motor, in these sort of tools they usually burn out well before the brushes need replacing. Looks like a cheapy, with no branding on the battery? Suggest a new brushless one. Same situation myself I was going to look for a brushless Fakita.

I use one of these, it is cheap and nasty but seems to work ok for settingnup my G372XP Yooreal Digital Tachometer Hour Meter,SVC Timer,Resettable Hours,Replaceable Battery for Lawn Mower Generator Chainsaw Outboard Motor Snowblower Jet Ski Dirt Bike : Amazon.co.uk: Garden WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Yooreal Digital Tachometer Hour Meter,SVC Timer,Resettable Hours,Replaceable Battery for Lawn Mower Generator Chainsaw Outboard...

I have plenty of 6082T6 alu bar in the shed if I wanted to make one. Can also anodise it cherry red so it wouldnt look too shite either. These graples and captain hooks are not rated as PPE, theres nothing to stop anyone doing that, or buying a 3 hook cheapy of amazon for a tenner and removing two of the hooks. The 150kg WLL is stated by Notch but havent listed a safety factor. Should it be rated as PPE? Lets say you climb to the top of something and grapple a tree 8 meters distant, and pull yourself across and just as you get there, the grapple releases. You have a 8m swing back to the first tree, with the same drop in height. If theres nothing to slow you down, or impale you on the way back, thats a lot of energy to be disipated when you hit the trunk. Perhaps equal to falling 4 or 5 meters, it would likely hurt depending on the rope angle - thats the important bit, but given UK trees are not that tall, the angle wont be too good. If you dont stay the same height as the grapple, you still have a 8m drop at a better rope angle but could be a ground fall. Reg seems to frequently climb very tall 60m conifers, solo without a groundy, jump across to a dead one etc.. while in the UK we are lucky to have many over 20-25 meters. The odd tree might go to 35m. I cant see it being very useful over here, but perhaps thats my lack of experience. I would throw my second rope and get groundy to attach it to first rope tail, pull it back up and DRT across, is how I'd go about it. Better than carrying a 600 gram device around with you. It looks silky shaped and sized so its going to catch on the saw lanyard every time.

HOW MUCH!?! One hundred and sixty quid for a folding hook. What a load of shite 🤣

Why wouldnt I use them? Everything so far has been used when it suits. I currently set a sling and carabiner at my high anchor point for working in the tree, so the short one will replace that to be retrievable. The long one only for large old limbs, which we have done a few of recently. 2 years Mike, the weight is for isolating, not for throwing.

Got a 5m rope for the purpose of making a 2.5m and 1m savers. Small eyes spliced and large to do. I have left the CE tag on the long one, may be enough for the loler guy.

For ease and lazyness I'd suggest an engine 2t auger with a drill to make a pilot hole of about 20mm smaller than the post you intend to knock in, that will make it very easy work. The bigger size drills may be useful for the larger planting holes too. I have one from doing fences, I enjoy using it and always looking for an excuse. I've not heard the term "mell" before , is that northern for maul? I use a scaff pole with a large lump of steel welded on the end, weighs about 8kg. Heavier is quicker.

Pictures please. It will likely need new bearings. May be the gears have eaten themselves but could likely be replaced much cheaper than a new head.

Never used one. I believe theres supposed to be a spring inside that riveted joint. It may be the spring has broken or came out of place. Probably not a safety issue but worth getting it checked.

I agree although they meant safer for other workers and trains rather than the worker. Also as above, forgot about the signal cables. Its not unsafe doing clearance with a saw, I've done a few small gardens like that. Rail has a lot of gravel, the perfect size to do damage yet not be too heavy. A strimmer can send it a long way. A more powerful brushcutter could be launching them into orbit and smashing nearby windows.