Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Muddy42

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    1,198
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Muddy42

  1. As above, flush out the tank a few times, pump the purge bulb if there is one and run it until the smoke clears. Then Id maybe check the plug is clean.
  2. Thant will definitely help. I tested that with a temporary ethernet cable first - you can also get flat cables that are easier to fit under closed windows and doors etc. The temporary cable worked fine for ages, but I did eventually dig permanent cables round the house and drilled through the walls.
  3. Thanks for the warning! I'll find a way to do this safely with the blade on. Yes I think that's all ok Pinions clean and lubed up. The cable is free and engaging the drive. What's odd is that one wheel drives and one doesn't. When I say one wheel doesn't work, this is even if you lift the mower off the ground. The one that works appears to have most wear to the pinions. Does each side of the gearbox work independently or is it a solid axle all the way across?
  4. Personally I don't think its tuning. I wouldn't have thought the high jet had anything to do with starting, that's just for peak revs and your approach to low jet tuning seems fine. Its just vapour lock or fuel getting hot and bunging up the carb. I don't have any magic soluiton. Keep fuel in a cool place or out of the shade. Open the fuel cap and pour out any remaining fuel before starting. Put saw in the shade for a few mins. Take a break and sharpen your saw.
  5. Thanks. I was thinking of doing more something along that lines - more comprehensive diagnosis and getting closer to the drive. For safety, I was thinking of taking the blade off and raising the mower up on a fish crate or something similar. I could even turn the belt by hand with the engine off.
  6. Its a shame redline is about five times the price of most other decent oils ! Anyway I need to do some research on this stuff. Thanks
  7. Same. Neat petrol goes in either jerry cans or rectangular 5l petrol cans. Mix goes into either the combi can or reused aspen bottles for the strimmer.
  8. Ive been using red Oregon two stroke oil for the last three years at 40:1. No engine failures yet! Please note I havn't taken any apart any engines that have used it, which would be the best way to confirm its quality and check the big end, however I've inspected several pistons with a torch and they look good. Jaso D rating (highest rating). Oregon 2T Stroke Oil | Sorbus International Ltd. WWW.SORBUS-INTL.CO.UK Oregon 2 stroke Oil, A high level of lubrication, and specially developed additive technology, provide the highest level of performance and improves engine life.
  9. Its still nonsense to me. The Stage 1 report identified a roof (with gaps under the eves and missing slates) and attic space and said that theoretically this could be used by bats. Nothing earth shattering here - Any roof build before about 1970 won't be particularly airtight. I guess what I am trying to say is that in most other professions, there are situations where a stage 1 can be carried out (on a low cost or desktop basis) and there is no need for a stage 2. For old roofs, it seemed like stage 2 will always be required. It frustrated me that this wasn't made clear. The whole process needs a shake up and a cost reduction. Or use of CCTV or recording devices that don't require people to count bats manually all night.
  10. @pleasant So a wee update. I got the drive pinions off and both of them were moving freely. The internal parts for the wheel that is working are a bit worn, so they may need replaced in time. Behind the wheel that wasn't working, there were two problems. This plastic spacer is cracked, but I'm not sure that is causing any issues yet, its more to do with raising and lowering the height of the machine. Maybe I can glue it. Secondly the retaining wheel nut was stripped (not shown in these photos). I suspect this was preventing the large cog in the wheel from aligning with the pinion gear. I repaired the thread, but still no drive on that wheel! The investigation continues, maybe something wrong with the gearbox.
  11. Yes, it would be logical that the fence was constructed on the boundary and the hedge grew up around it, but who knows.
  12. Bat surveys make me so angry. I commissioned a stage 1 bat survey once. They couldn't find evidence of bats, BUT nor could they prove there weren't bats - answer stage 2 survey and more cost. I gave up and let the building's roof fall down naturally. What's the point of having a stage 1 survey if it leads to stage 2?
  13. Its not as straight forward as 'who owns the hedge.' What you need to establish is where is the land boundary between your land and your neighbours. You can download a title plan from the land registry. You can do what you like with a hedge growing on your land or branches of a hedge going over your land.
  14. I generally move bags on the loader, but when I have used a trailer, I ratcheted down a small section of ladder that I have lying around.
  15. Just be aware permethrin is also highly toxic to insects and pollinators. Dogs shouldn't be allowed to swim nor run through thick cover for 2 days after treatment.
  16. I only use bio oil near watercourses, as thats what is required by law. Its a shame all bio oils seem to bung up the tank and lines. My general response to poor oil is to dilute it with diesel, but this would rather defeat the object!
  17. Does the saw hang for a second or two from the starter rope (confirming reasonable compression)? What does the piston look like? Any leaks in the fuel and impulse line.
  18. You should have B+E AND the Cs on your current licence. If you passed at a time when these were issued (and I think you did) these are all grandfathered. Keep bashing away at the DVLA about what you want to keep, they will give in eventually.
  19. Agreed, the only thing I find with those additives is they can bung up the sprayer nozzles. That's fine if you are doing a lot and can rinse out the sprayer afterwards, but I have one sprayer that is permanently filled with glyphosate.
  20. Ive never come across anything that wont survive 2 or 3 doses of max strength glyphosate performed in dry weather. I sometimes have to do more doses, but thats because I have missed some or it rained! you can even inject it down the hollow stems of things like bamboo or knotweed
  21. Don't you just fill this out (or paper version in post office)? I think what you can drive always carries forward, including B+E. Putting it another way, they don't have enough test capacity! Renew your driving licence if you're 70 or over - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK Renew your driving licence online if you're 70 or over. Use form D46P to apply by post
  22. I agree with all of the above about abusing the bamboo with maximum cutting and poison. Just one more thought, once you have got the stems to ground level, between cycles of cutting and poison, you could cover the bamboo with a weed proof membrane. This would stop any sunlight or other weeds growing or children touching the poison. You could even cover the membrane with fake astroturf lawn?
  23. thanks for the comprehensive explanation. I’ll try both approaches on Friday.
  24. I have a second hand Mountfield SP535 HW with a Honda engine. I got it cheap because of various minor issues. I've fixed everything apart from the drive. Is meant to drive both rear wheels when you engage the lower handle, the upper handle being the 'dead man's handle. At the moment only one wheel turns quite weakly. I've had the blade and lower cover off, cleared out all the grass and oiled everything. The belt is intact and working. The gearbox seems ok and is turning the axle. The axle is connected to a small cog which turns a large cog inside the wheel. ive had the wheels off but I can't find anything wrong. The cogs do slip a bit, but surely something has to slip so you can push the mower without drive or even to reverse or turn the thing? Any advice gratefully received.
  25. @Rob D the link above no longer reaches your milling FAQs for some reason. A good read!

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.