Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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There are a few 50mm Meteor piston, cylinder and ring kits on ebay? To the point about pistons fitting well, it may be best to replace both at the same time.
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I've never heard of Ama, but all the Alkalyte fuel I have used seems pretty similar. I presume when they say "ready mixed" it means ready mixed to 50:1. If you have any doubt, you could top up the oil with a known high quality brand, just calculate the small amount to take it from 50:1 to say 40:1. I still use pump fuel in a saws if I'm desperate (and then flush it through with aspen afterwards).
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If it was felled from green, chopped, split and stacked in rows the sun and wind before say February 2023, you might just be able to burn it this winter. The sap will have been washed/evaporated out and any moisture will be skin deep and you can simply wait for 2-3 dry days and bring it indoors. That said a moisture meter is really useful. Split a log and test the inside. And the drier you get wood the better. Some people say you can burn wood at 25%, but I don't like it. Im not sure how, but I (we!) ended up with some greenish 25% wood in the logshed this year. It is difficult to light, hisses and doesn't really give off much heat. This is more noticeable in open fires than stoves. Whereas the well seasoned, 'crumbly-at-the-edges' 17% moisture logs are a dream to burn
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I always use a flat file and a small square for chainsaw bars. For mower blades I use a big angle grinder to remove any dings followed by a flapper sanding disk on a smaller grinder to refine the edge.
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Great, Im genuinely glad you have this sorted and isnt it so satisfying to fix things yourself. I feel sad for every broken but repairable chainsaw. You won’t miss the extra displacement. I think this thread has run its course. White flag / pitchforks down / get on with lives!
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The main thing is I hope you can get your saw going again. Hopefully the dealer is friendly, however in the worst case it sounds like you can work on saws, so at least you'll be ahead by the labour costs.
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Can you not offset the flail to one side? I havnt really done much research yet. But some of my grass gets waist high, I was thinking that to cut it Id need a tractor with a fair amount of puff focussed on a narrow flail. Thanks
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Personally I find a rotary gives a better finish but I find a flail is more tolerant of hitting things - stumps/branches. I keep an ancient 1990s ride on Bolens mulching mower limping along. When it dies, I'll probably go for a 50-70 hp 4WD tractor with a 5 ft PTO driven flail.
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The most consistent way to test with a moisture meter is to split a few logs and then test the inside. I imagine if you turn up at a firewood supplier with moisture meter and a full sized axe, they will soon get the message that you mean business! I find that logs at 25% moisture can still hiss, below 20% is best.
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Carbs and fuel lines are pretty easy to test and replace when you have done a few. Replacement carb diaphragms, fuel lines and carb cleaner are pretty cheap insurance against an air leak I'd say. I run pump fuel in the strimmer all summer and then overhaul and check the carb in the winter.
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Have you tried phoning the dealer? You have a fairly strong case for returning the saw / getting the price difference or getting the p&c swapped. Lots of people prefer the MS270 as its lighter - 6 ccs is nothing, the power difference of sharpening the chain. Make sure the cylinder is genuine, are there any other letters or words on the cyclinder (S or STIHL)? post a pic.
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You were right the first time, the moss has just been photoshop-ed in green and there has definitely been some flash photography involved. I bet the forestry investors and carbon credit offset crew imagine the are promoting oak trees and bluebells!
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Some people disagree, but I like to allow logs to sit outside in the sun/rain and break down a bit before drying. This is easier if you are not in a rush and have >2 year cycle. I find green wood if just split and staked undercover immediately stays very hard with moisture trapped inside. Weathering creates natural cracks and the bark falls off, helping the moisture leave.
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We also need a change of policy - this is Forestry Scotland's idea of sustainable biodiverse forestry, 75% of the area can be planted in non native Sitka.
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Normal 50:1 Aspen for most things, aspen topped up with two stroke oil to 40:1 for milling and 40:1 with super unleaded in the new strimmer (only because I use it so much in the summer. I’ll strip the carb at the end of October.) i currently use Oregon semi synthetic FD two stroke oil and the cheap oregon mineral bar oil. Both seem ok. For the aux bar oiler on the chainsaw mill I use whatever old (unused) oil I can lay my hands on - veg oil, engine oil etc.
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I’d argue that in a situation where other peoples safety and lives depend on being alert and focussed, drug taking would fall under catch all clauses for gross misconduct or negligence, employee or contractor. Zero tolerance, test and out.
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I have one. It can take a bit of trial and error to get the cut square, but after that it works well.
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Well I do, but I respect your decision not to. Even then congestion in the Midlands in terms of too many trains sharing lines and high passenger numbers has a knock on effect on other UK lines and forces people back onto the roads.
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I agree with all that. What a massive waste - they have even bought the land which the government plans to re-sell. All the nimby grief has been gone through, we might as well complete the job or at least pause it until some savings can be found. Plus with the economy about to go into recession, infrastructure spending gives a massive boost to the economy or multiplier effect via employment. This has a more direct effect on economic growth than any tax cut.
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PM sent Have you tried an auxiliary oiler?
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Yes the 500i has fantastic power to weight ratio, but not being able to work on the carb, price (new or used) and being too close to bigger saws holds me back. A 46 something is fine if you have other saws, I'd only consider a 550i if I had fewer options.
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i like Henrys because they suck hard and are so fixable. If one is not working well, i try changing bag, beating the filter, brushing near the motor and poking something down the pipes. This fixes most things.
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or you could add an inline fuel filter (basically adding a filter in the middle of the fuel line). I've added one to an old Honda engine that kept having carb issues.
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It looks like damage from water and salt thrown off the wheels. A good welder could fix that! And the repair could be as strong and pretty as the original. I'd disassemble the ram and lift off the trailer first. It would be a fairly long job mind you, so I'd want to know that the rest of the vehicle was in good condition. and cheap
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As above, pretty much any oil will do. Electric have lower chain speeds and less heat than petrol. I've thinned unused engine oil with white spirit before in a pinch. Please never use used engine oil however, that stuff contains metal and all kinds of nasty stuff.
