Ledburyjosh

The machine has been mine since new and has not had any issues/major repairs. The most likely reason is as you have pointed out, the sprocket is not OEM. The rim sprocket replaced yesterday now is, however it's the bit that slides on is still a farmertec one. That will be changed next. I shall report back once I have a replacement OEM part. Thanks so far for the input

It is a MS460 2009 model. Yeah I'm confident it's not the chain. I've tried x2 chains on a 25" bar and x1 chain on a 18" bar. They all do the same. As as above on one of the pictures I posted with the blue marker pen lines on the bar. The loosening of the chain happens at set intervals which relate to the circumference of the sprocket. I.e. every tike the sprocket is back in the same place the chain is loose I'm all up for any suggestions to look at though, I'm no expert, just saying what I observe

I started looking for at as recently my saw has started getting stuck in cuts, particularly angled cuts on gobs. Which is has not done before and my sharpening is always consistent with guides etc. The slackening of the chain would explain this. Nonetheless I shall stick the chain back on and get a picture to get some more opinions and input

Hi, I am hiring an Eder power winch 1800 and myself out in Cumbria. It is a petrol portable capstan winch with an 1800kg pull for assisted fells or extracting. I am also good at climbing and felling, so with myself and the winch, I'm hoping it will be a useful combo, with setting lines, removing any branches to help the fell etc. I will Have a couple of lines for the winch, the longest being 100m, so it will have a decent range on it. The rate is £250 per day, for myself, rigging gear and winch. Depending on where the job travel costs may need to be discussed also. If you would like to know any more info or discuss then do let me know. Josh

I have come to the same conclusion. A new rim sprocket was fitted today and the issue still persists. So the next and last thing to change will be the bit the rim sprocket goes on.. unsure of the name of that bit. Hopefully that's the fix. Odd as it's been on for a while, I can't see what would cause it to change shape slightly. Either way if I replace that then it would have had new clutch bearing and sprocket kit. Which doesn't leave much else...

A new chain does not remedy it. I marked the distance the chain moves between each loose bit. And it matches the circumference of the sprocket. So it's definitely relating to something around the sprocket. I'll put a new sprocket and clutch plate on next.. 🤞

OK. I shall try a new chain also to be sure. I'm not convinced though as I have tried 2 bar and chain combinations. Unless both are worn?

I have noticed that my chain is going tight and loose as I rotate it. It happens on multiple chains and bars on the same engine unit. So can say its the sprocket end being the issue. It also oil's fine and had some new pin bearings in today. I've had this before due to a worn sprocket . This time though the sprocket is pretty new. So I would have expected this. I shall replace it anyway to be sure. But not until next week now. So in the mean time does anyone have any suggestions of what to check? Could the drive shaft be out? And if so could that be checked? Thanks

Yeah it's pretty good, no complaints with the husky for me. Stihl still omit from adding any type of clipping point directly to the back of the chainsaw as found on the 540 family, and on the echo battery climbing saw. Echo nailed the design of that saw. I also have two brands of batteries, kind of annoying. It's for the Echo DCS2500t. A tiny battery saw which no other brand make a competitor to. Which is my favourite bit of work gear I've ever bought. Worth having 2 battery set up for sure. Would be better if it was the same brand financially though..

Agree with this. The switching it's self off in seconds is infuriating. Husky and echo saw stay on for a while without the chain brake on and even longer with the brake on. Much more user friendly. Husky added a 2 way dead man handle for extra safety which was annoying but is not thought about now. Maybe the stihl system will become that way? I imagine not though as the switch will require altering your hand position to turn it back on just after you've lined up on your cut. The machine is heavier and slower cutting compared to the t540ixp. Seems like a flop given the time it's taken to appear on the shelves. I have the t540ixp and really rate it, a friend just got the 220t. So I have used them side by side and there is a clear winner to me. Which I want expecting. The stihl also had a 12" bar the husky 14" and was still lighter and quicker. (I have no bias to either brand)

Is that not what the lock stitching prevents?

Thanks. I guess the question I'm asking on this thread is are there any cheaper alternatives -sub £2k- That get close to competing with the greenmech cs100?.

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This one I am pretty happy with.

One used Tachyon, following Samsons modified instructions for used rope. Another new one foolowing samsons double braid. One thing i noticed it there is a lump by the whipping where the core isnt tapered very well. On my next one i shall take the core further down, samsons instructions are 1/3 fid, which doesn't leave much slack to pull it out and taper it. So shall go for 2/3 fid from now on.

Some unsuccessful attempts. The green one I forgot to cut and taper the core before the final burry. The orange one I made the eye to tight.

A captain hook can be useful for this

so I can start the lock stitching about 50mm down from the throat. that way I can open the eye up slightly to get the ring in and out to move it onto shorter bits of rope

The compressor is fixed and back running now. I took it off the tank, took the casing of and noticed a switch... Obviously a safety cut if switch of sorts.

Thats a good idea

never drained it no, and brought it 2nd hand. doubt it ever has been. If i get it running I shall make that a pre winter job in future

I should add to help pin point the fault. I used it a few days ago, went out switched it on, it ran for 1 sec then stopped under strain. So switched it off and took it in the house to defrost, it then worked fine.

Hi, I left my air compressor on in the garage, which does refill its self a occasionally as it leaks on a joint. I usually switch it off when im not using it. However, I did not switch it off the last few days and it no longer works, this will be because it tried to re fill whilst something was frozen. So now I am trying to figure out what broke. Mechanical or electrical? Has anyone had this problem or fixed similar before?