Gordon S

Well done, when you didn't update us last night I thought that now you had passed 30/31 you were too good for us and were off in some exotic tree climbers forum discussing '2 ton crane picks over a row of town houses in Cheshire!' Keep practicing and all the mystery with become clearer.

Oh yeah, I should have checked before typing.

So.... how did you get on? You had the assessment today?

Hi, Unfortunately like trying anything new (driving a car, playing guitar) it seams impossible at first and you think you will never be able to do it. Brushcutter has covered it but practice is the best method to get better, as previously mentioned getting the balance right to get horizontal cuts is tricky at first. We balanced a tennis ball on the bar, just get used to how the saw feels horizontal. When doing felling cuts, if you are allowed you could try to start with a high stump then once you have felled the tree you still have a few feet of stem left. You can then have another practice at a face cut and back cut on the same trunk. Moving the bar away and towards yourself during the back cut can also help to see your progress and you will have a better chance of meeting your face cut parallel. Also read the notes and the assessment questions and practice the chainsaw maintenance over the weekend. You will feel much better going into the felling if you haven't had to sweat and be constantly prompted through the questions by the assessor. Good luck, you clearly care about getting it right so you will be fine. Also look at all the thickos on here who have passed (myself included) it can't be that hard you got this.

You are very light on detail but In answer to your question, if you are in England then anyone can request a TPO, it doesn't need to be the owner of the tree. As the trees are not able to be seen by the public then it is less likely to be granted. Also your neighbour is removing them and replanting so I'm assuming the existing trees are not the greatest specimens or they would not be bothering. You have answered your own question, talk to your neighbour to find a resolution that works for you both. Why do they want to remove the trees? Do they know you like the trees? Is there a compromise by getting them pruned/reduced or remove less trees to lessen the impact on you? Going to war by trying to get a TPO that appears unlikely to be successful will probably just agitate your neighbour and make them less likely to be cooperative. As others have already said these are their trees in their garden. You are negotiating from a position of weakness so be nice, you come across as entitled. Many people have gone insane or broke arguing over boundary disputes with neighbours don't become the next one!

UMM... I'm not an expert but.. A couple of things spring to mind, if you are in England and have put an application into the council then they will put orange planning notices on lamppost/gates of the property when the tree officer goes to visit the site to allow neighbours an opportunity to comment. Also the tree owners details should be put on the application so they will be copied in on any correspondence. Going onto a neighbours property without the owners permission to remove a tree will be trespassing. I think you need to give us some more details and greater minds than mine can comment. Where are you? Whose tree is it? Who made the application? Is it in a conservation area or does it have a tree preservation order. Why does the tree need to be removed? Has anything been discussed with the tree owner?

I can't comment on MSA200 or 300 but I've used an MSA220 and was surprised how well it cut. Price wise I think it's only a small step (£50ish) over a 200 but I decent bit more powerful.

Hi, you obviously have a strong connection with the trees so why not look at putting a TPO on them?

Hi, yes both sides are the same, nose matches bar as per my photos.

This one works well but is fragile. It fits the Stihl Combi can Spout with Cap for Stihl Combination Fuel/Oil Canister - 0000 881 0128 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Spout with Cap for Stihl Combination Fuel/Oil Canister Genuine Stihl part OEM No. 0000 881 0128

Are you implying it has a Mountain Man vibe?

That got me wondering so I checked mine. It's 1.6mm and lines up both sides. I've attached photos but they are from Mac so not everyone can open them.

I try to use a car analogy with customers when they seam to think their trees needs a 'service' because it hasn't had any previous work done and must be due. Most trees just want to be left alone unless there is a customer requirement to reduce/lift/thin etc. My most common frustration is when a customer thinks a 70% reduction will benefit the tree and allow it to come back rejuvenated! Trying to explain that topping the crap out of it will look awful and if it survives will look shocking and not just a smaller version of what they have at the moment as they expect. All that aside though... I believe if they really want it done and you have explained the risks/results etc then take the money and get it done. Just make sure you tidy up well, it is what this type of customer will notice the most.

My son has used it for a couple of years too. He used to get in a right state with it, now he seems to be getting along well. What was your concern/view? I don't think any of the applications work especially well, we also have ARBOR, seneca and tassomai.

I thought it was a sixty year old man and his teenage son? They had a grievance regarding a rented property? Have I missed something? Do we know why these two have been charged?

I like Timberwolf just because of ease of getting parts but you do pay a premium. I've hired ST6P and thought it was great. But just from threads on here the Briggs and Stratton Efi Vangard VTwin is to be avoided.

Hi, Yes, you use MRS (moving rope system) this is also called DRT (doubled rope system) The alternative is SRT (single rope system) hope this helps Gordon

I think the main attraction for some would be there is very little graft. I regularly see 2 or 3 Council tipper/chipper teams standing looking at a tree. They mess around for a half day with a MEWP, not much achieved, then move on. It's the usual roadworker situation of 6 men watching, 1 man working! I'm sure someone here will tell me otherwise but that is certainly the case here. I would speak to the LA regarding job opportunities, I bet they don't come up very often as no one leaves!

I feel the balance of a saw is just as important. Once it gets too nose heavy it is a pain to use. The average UK tree surgeon would have a range of ground saws 50cc - 90cc so 14'' to 30'' is covered and would pick the most appropriate for each job. US homeowners may only have one saw and decide pushing a MS261 with a 24" is the way to go. They all think Europeans are stupid for using tiny bars but they drive 7L V8 cars with a 55MPH speed limit!

Just to complete the circle on this issue for anyone else who has the same problem. The plastic worm gear attached to the motor detaches and just hangs loose on the motor. As said previously if the gear is ok it can be stuck back, it just needs lining up with the raised sections on the motor. Mine was damaged, so there is a replacement kit available from Stihl for about £18. It has the worm gear, motor shaft circlip and a spacer to get the gear lined up correctly on the motor. Lots of swearing and self tappers later all is good, I love the saw but this has made me lose confidence in it!

+1 I think it is simlar reasoning that car manufacturers enter motorsport. The public see a Renault Formula One car and buy a Clio because it is similar!! Keeping a low initial price point but a noticeable benefit in moving up the product line looks like a winning formula. Consumer is hooked with a £200 product but can see the steps into a £500 unit. Isolating yourself to one sector of the market seams narrow-minded.

Thanks, I think the ring is fine but you can buy it separately, it looks like it does just need gluing. Did you use epoxy or something else?

Hi All, This looks like a common issue but I'm confused. My Stihl MSA161T has stopped oiling. It has a rubber worm gear around the motor that has become detached. Has anyone had any success replacing these? It looks a pain to stick it back on straight. What adhesive would work? Any assistance would be appreciated. many thanks Gordon

I guess the UK equivalent is a grab lorry. I've never seen one used for Arb work, prob too expensive. They are usually 16 or 20 tons and regularly hired in construction.