Moose McAlpine
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Everything posted by Moose McAlpine
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Heeeeeeere ya' go: http://www.zamacorp.com/tclist.html?cnum=RB-Z011-120-0667-A Rebuild kit is RB-188. Can't find it in the UK, maybe worth contacting someone like L&S Engineers, or: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fp%2F2255550552
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Jeeeeeesus. It might be a manufacturing defect. It's one single bolt man! 😂 15 years as a mechanic you head might explode if you'd seen some of the defects and failures i've seen and i don't consider any of it particularly shocking. (Have a look at car manufacturer recall campaigns. All sorts of stuff can have issues.)
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Maybe @Mark_Skyland of Skyland Equipment - Arborist & Rope Access. Tel: +44(0) 151 345 9971 SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Suppliers of arborist equipment, chainsaws, chainsaw boots...
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He might have a meltdown if he sees the kind of stuff that fails on a day to day basis on cars/vans/trucks/machinery. But just for fun here's a few small normal Timberwolf repairs:
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So what? It snapped, nothing happened. No catastrophic failure, no machine damage, no exploding chipper. You're acting like the world could've fallen apart and Timberwolf need to issue a public statement immediately. It's a single broken reused bolt on a used machine. Get over it. I think this is more likely the cause. It wasn't tightened sufficiently before, stretching has caused fatigue, it snappened on tightening.
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Mate.. you had a broken bolt. Chill the f**k out. Your machine didn't even fail in any way. It snapped on tightening. Talk about blowing it out of proportion.
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They still cut with horrendous sharpening and scalloped teeth from people who don't know how to do it right. So as you say, anywhere between 25 and 30 will do. I imagine getting the "hook" right on the top plate is more important than the angle. I cheat and use the magnetic angle guide:
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I don't think you'll go far wrong between 25° or 30°. (Unless it's ripping chain.) Some chain boxes i had laying around:
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You had your chance to be a part of this.
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Fuel tank vent issue?
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You lot are no fun. Well i'm off, if you haven't heard from me in a week just assume i died happy, full of pizza and muffled by flesh.
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Why, you want in as well?
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He's probably out on the hunt already. Do you like Bo' Selecta? There's a place going spare.
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Oh wow. Well in that case i won't invite you to my Fat Birds And Bo' Selecta! party. Shame, we were going to have pizza as well.
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And there was me thinking you were a man of impeccable taste, Mr Cropper.
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Here you go: (Just kidding. Here's the link:) https://www.manualslib.com/manual/165758/Stihl-Ms-200-T.html
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.404, long bars, full wraps, big dawgs, high tops, Yorkie bars, manly shit. Our Stubby ain't f**kin' around. 💪🏻
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All my chains are either 25° or 30°, so whatever's specified. Most of them have the wear limit line on the cutter tooth so easy to tell. Sometimes i file at the wrong angle because i'm an idiot and i stick the magnetic guide on the wrong way.
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My mate just suggested i go cover myself in Canesten. Something to do with me being an irritable c**t. 🤔
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Right, i see. So if the tree's deadwooded you could be removing limbs that, while they're dead, are allowing other limbs to knit together for support. So ultimately leads to wind damage and tear outs as limbs grow beyond their own strength?
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It's probably a good 2-3 hours work, everything needs to be cleaned thoroughly then as others said you'd also change the cylinder base gasket, the crank bearings and seals, couple other bits. Looking at prices of the parts, i suppose probably closer to 200 quid than 300. I think a lot of them make it up as they go along, or price it to sell you a new one. I asked a couple dealers a while ago about repairing saws for a place i was working at and they weren't really interested at all.
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As someone who's not clued up on this stuff, why should it not be removed? To prevent damage/wounding or unbalancing it? Would you just remove the bulk of the weight from it but leave it so it's not heavy enough to tear out or split?
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Ah, didn't know that. I thought people posted their saws to him for repair. I'm about an hour from him and dropped mine off when it needed fixing. I would hazard a guess at 200-300 quid to repair yours.
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The MIGs are only DC. AC is for TIG/arc welders (largely the same in their internal workings) and MIGs don't need AC to weld ally. (I won't bore you with the technical reasons behind that.) Your inverter arc welder likely won't run a spool gun as arc and TIG are constant amperage machines, whereas MIGs are constant voltage machines. R-Tech are great machines and their service is second to none. I used to have a 200A AC/DC TIG machine from them, was a nice piece of kit. Guy on another forum runs their 250A MIG and keeps count of how much wire he's put through it, last i saw it was something like 3 tons, without issue.
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