Paddy1000111

Well I guess that answers your own question then? If you had 3 incidents at work that were caused by a blatant breach of HSE regs, filled out a RIDDOR and HSE said "Oh you work for yourself, no worries bud" then we would be onto something. But you have basically said "I've not broken the law and have no experience of what happens when I do" and you're calling me and Khriss liars for saying that you can be charged for breaking the law? I don't get it? All I said is that a nearby farmer was repairing his roof with no safety equipment on his own farm, he fell off the roof, seriously injured himself and HSE charged him for it? I don't know the farmer on a personal level and I don't keep HSE reports for nearby farms on hand? I don't get what's so unbelievable about that story. I don't even know how to access all the HSE reports to find it?

So you've had 3 incidents that were caused by a blatant breach in HSe guidelines and you've not once been charged?

To be fair to Khriss I really don't see what the problem is with this 2 rope thing? It's obviously different in Norway but in the UK it is the law that if you are climbing at work you need two ropes? It's not a preference it's law. If you have an accident, be it by yourself for your own company or whilst working for someone else you can be charged by hse for it with an unlimited fine and/or jail time? By all means prove me and khriss wrong and show me an exemption from the law for people who are the sole worker of a ltd company, or even a sole trader for that fact. It's all very well and good saying "I work by myself for myself" but if you fall out a tree and go to claim on insurance because you're going to be out of work for the next x amount of months, the first thing any insurer will ask for is a copy of the incident report. I really don't get the argument here? Either you follow the law or there is some weird exemption and we can all go back to single rope. The only argument for single rope is it's slightly more convenient?

Ah FFS I really don't want to go through the HSe archives to try and find the case or an identical case. Crack on climbing on one rope and take your own risks. Just because you're the boss of the company doesn't mean you are immune to HSe regulations 😂🤦‍♂️

I don't no. It was a farmer, not exactly news paper stuff although loads of local companies have had similar fines: https://www.devonlive.com/news/devon-news/firm-fined-100000-after-death-1089977 Instead if "inadequate edge protection" you could read "Inadequate fall protection" and imagine the 100k coming out of your pocket. Total cost with fees £111,060.40. Personally, I'd rather use a second rope and things take 5 minutes longer than have to pay out on that. Out of interest, where would that put you if you had a freelancer working for you that was a "I've been doing this for x years, I climb on 1 rope, 2 ropes hold me back" I suppose as the employer you're liable?

Dmm grommets? Link please?! I've just put adhesive lined heat shrink on bottom of the two carabiners I use with it. I quite like not having to squeeze the carabiner out of the grommet now

Ahhh I see! Sorry I should have said! That cost makes far more sense! Yea I would definitely buy one that's already a utilities tipper and just have the back kitted out! any reason for going with a 4x4 out of interest? Mainly doing forest work?

I completely agree. I just feel that there isn't a night and day difference between aspen and petrol when it's being run in the saw and unless there's something wrong with the saw there's no reason why a tool won't run, and run well on it. I want to know if this was a bad batch (unlikely, although if the batch number was posted up aspen could look into it although it would be a huge amount of resources and money) or if it's 2 dodgy tools which is far, far more likely

Just found this on my google rampage... much rather have 25L of petrol that's for sure! Some say that roof is now in orbit and you can see it on a clear night 😂

Just looked it up and acetylene has a specific gravity of 0.9 (air is 1) so it definitely floats and it must have been acetylene!

Maybe it wasn't that then? I remember him putting gas from a torch in a bag and the f***** floating off 😂

Maybe I will look into doing the conversion myself then. 7K seems kind of steep to put sides and some doors on an already existing tipper back! For 7K I could buy a decent welder and spend a few weeks doing the work and still be quids in. I've been looking into using the aluminium honeycomb stuff for the sides as it's extremely light whilst having very good strength properties.

I was reading a study on this the other day. A good pruning cut made with a clean (dipped in a bleach solution) tool will heal itself quite quickly. Products like arbrex stop the tree naturally healing. After time in the sun the arbrex cracks and falls off and leaves the exposed, unhealed wood which starts to absorb water and be a permanent open wound for infection to get in.

I had a friend who worked in a garage. His party trick was to fill a black bin bag with acetylene and a touch of oxy and then make a fuse out of an oily rag. Used to float away and go off with a boom equivalent to an rpg

Thinking about it the yellow/red wire one in the top left of the photo has a locking tap that needs lifting but you shouldn't have to disconnect that iirc No, you don't need the press fluid it says about in the manual. It's only in there as the techs during production where damaging seals and stuff going in dry... iirc the fuel lines were coming off as they were lubricating them with oil. The press fluid dries up after installation. Don't worry about it.

The bit in the bottom right is the pulse line from the engine. Just pull it off. The plugs should just pull out, from memory there's no clips but just hang fire until someone confirms and I'm not losing my mind. Been a while since I disconnected them all but I'm 99% sure they gently pull out. I would use a pair of needle nose pliers to disconnect the plugs, don't yank on the cables. The linkages aren't that bad, use the needlenose pliers to put them back when you re-assemble. Just relax, I know it looks daunting but like you're first time with other things, take a breath, get used to fumbling in tight spaces and it will all make sense soon enough 😂

Ever filled a trash bag with acetylene? Would rather put a torch to a bag of fuel. My ear drums would be happier 😂

I'm planning on picking up a new van at the end of this month/start of next, I'm not sure exactly what yet (transit, iveco or merc seem the options) but having seen some ones already with an arb back I was wondering how much people have paid for an arb conversion so I can work out if it's worth buying one already converted or buying one and getting it converted. My other question is, has anyone had some ramps made to load something like a micro-bull into the back of the transit? In my mind my ideal set up would be micro-bull, chipper trailer and van. That way I can load the micro-bull into the van and tow the chipper and if I want to remotely work with the chipper I can pull it around with the micro bull so I don't have to have a tracked chipper. I can also retain the ability to have the van and chipper trailer alone too for domestic stuff.

You can't fix stupid but you can hit it with a stick until it learns 😂

No, but if you put it in forced regeneration for the DPF it sits at about 3500rpm and the DPF will cook your dinner for you and even flambe it by setting fire to the tarmac. Not talking from experience or anything 🙄 🤣

Assuming you fix the issue... If you're taking the carb out then I would take the top and bottom off and put new gaskets on: Set Of Carburetor Parts for Stihl MS201T Chainsaw - 1145 007 1700 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Set Of Carburetor Parts for Stihl MS201T Chainsaw Genuine Stihl Part OEM No. 1145 007 1700 Fits the following Stihl Machines: MS201,MS201C,MS201T,MS201TC And whilst you're in there: Strainer for Stihl FR85T, FR85 Brushcutter - 1123 121 7800 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Strainer for Stihl FR85T, FR85 Brushcutter Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1123 121 7800 Suitable for the Following Applications: FR 85 T, FR 85, FT 250, FS 120, FS 120 R, FS... A rebuild on these carbs is so easy there's no springs that come pinging out or tiny parts that dissemble everywhere. take 4 screws out and the pump diaphragm comes off and then take one screw out the other side and the other diaphagm comes out. Only thing to remember is how it goes back together. The side with the 4 screws goes carb body-seal-diaphragm-lid. The side with one screw goes carb body-diaphragm-seal-lid. The fuel strainer is just a piece of mesh pushed into a hole, you can use a pick or a small flat blade to pull it out, it doesn't need prising out or anything then just push the new one into the hole. I'll see if I can find a video showing a carb rebuild

Here's the tech note for the 261. The 201 has pretty much the same set up on the carb. 261 M-Tronic tech note.pdf

As Spud says, you definitely have the black solenoid

The OBD tools will work for the engine systems, transmission stuff and other things that effect emissions but they wont deep scan, they usually can't talk to ABS, Central computers, SRS, immobiliser, headlights, entertainment systems, suspension, DPF, and other units. They can sometimes pick up basic issues like a dodgy abs sensor but it depends on the car and how the system is all integrated. When scanned on OBDII a car might say "Abs fault" or throw a general abs fault but the deep scan will tell you what sensor and what the issue is with the sensor, you can then go into the live data and it will tell you what the sensors are reading etc. If I scan my car with that foxwell I can choose between OBDII and manufacturer scan. If I scan with OBDII it takes about 30 seconds and will give me a basic code for "EGR-P0401". If I scan with full diagnostics it takes about 4 minutes, connecting to each module in the car and downloading the data I end up with a about 20 codes from logged abs issues to logged problems when a door lock got stuck when it was cold. If I then go into the ECU module it gives me the same fault with the EGR but it will give me more detailed info saying that it's disconnected (because I blanked it). Once connected I can also access special features like injector coding, forced DPF regeneration, steering angle sensor calibration, throttle peddle calibration etc etc