PhillH

It could be your own if the dense air is coming down your chimney and vents care left open. Would be worth checking if her stove is lit when you are experiencing this. Smoke test will confirm any leaks

Hi there, I have a external flue so it may not be your issue but I find that if we have a cold / damp evening the cold air is dense and pushes the Smokey smell back in the room, usually notice it of a morning when I come downstairs. Traditional chimneys are usually ok but don’t know your environment.

Hi,

I am looking to buy a wagon load of timber for firewood. It does not need to be pretty as it will not be going through a processor.

Would anyone have any contacts?

Also able to collect smaller loads in a close radius to outskirts of Liverpool.

We have a few stoves in the family and our usual supply is no longer available.

Thank you in advance.

Its nice to get feed back when peeps are trying to help . Not everyone does [emoji106]

Hi @Paddy1000111 & @Wonky really appreciate your replies. I have swapped out the plugs and filter already to rule them out. I have had the carb apart but will check that again just to be 100%, I need to check the inlet arrangement as well to see how fuel is drawn into each cylinder. Looking at the coils, it does say they are handed but I am wondering if that is just down to the length of the leads? If they are not sealed then I may swap the coils around. Will also check the air gaps too.

Thank again for you support and appreciate the time you have take to pull out assembly drawings etc.

More specifically, part 30/31 on here. The high jets. I would take the bowl off, check it for garbage and then check those jets to see if one is blocked. Worth a shot for no outlay 

Hi all, finally got round to taking a look again today. Done a compression test on both cylinders wet and dry, both measured around the same and all reading’s are within the spec from the manual (85psi dry / 95psi wet)

I checked the temperature on each cylinder and it seems one side is not firing as it’s not getting warm, I pulled the lead and no difference but pulled the other side and it stalled.

With the plug out, it is sparking but it does seem to be slightly damp.

Has anyone had this issue before, next thing to check is if the coils are handed so I can swap them to try and rule out the coil.

Thank you in advance

I had a look around, found the 690 service manual, it should be pretty much the same, as you will see the models it covers. [emoji6]
 
as I was looking through it, I,m not sure if you have one fitted , I know in the USA and other dry places they have to have a spark screen in the exhaust..if you have one and  it’s blocked  that will give low power.
 
heres the link to the service manual. 
https://www.lindec.com/download/14043667571_Honda_GX630-660-690-workshop_manual.pdf
 
and as you can see from the screenshot I took. Low power is because of some of the things I said before [emoji106]

edit this  670 manual 
 
http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/engines/pdf/manuals/00X37Z6C6120.pdf

Hi all,

Looking for some help with a Honda GX670 24HP engine.

The engine is down on power, to the point it stalls when engaging the fly wheel If you do not engage it really slowly (Flywheel spins freely so it’s not that.

I have checked the obvious such as plugs, valve clearance, fuel filter, cleaned the carb but still no different.

Has anyone had similar faults or have any ideas? It would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

http://www.logs.co.com/?product=the-garden-cube-outdoor-stove
 
Absolutely fantastic piece of kit.  4 glass sides. 1.5m flue. really solid construction and weighs 90Kg so its not going to move!
 
You can get you current "Rule of 6" around it, no one is getting covered in smoke or ash. 
 
RRP is £1495 inc VAT and delivery to most mainland UK addresses. I'm happy to do an "arbtalk" deal for anyone interested. Please PM me.
 
 
 

Hi Phill. What's  happened is convesa have changed the way thier flues lock together. So even  though it's  all the same make the last 500mm on my flue is actually different to the rest. I have had to modify the structural band that clamps the last  500mm pipe to the rest of my flue.
I've had a fire going since  Saturday and all seems well. 
 

Hi.@JT19 did you find anything?

I'll get pics up tomorrow as it'll explain it easier. 
Do you have a convesa flue pipe? 

Hi @JT19 I have a similar issue but can not trace where the water is coming in. Do you know where water is getting in between your two walls?

Hi @Gtflash have you had time to make any changes? Just wondering how you are getting on and if there is any improvement?

Hi@Gtflash I have the exact same problems, I called the supplier of the flue and he told me a anti down draft cowl would not help and to install a vent behind the stove but not link it directly. He also told me that cold air is more dense that hot air and that is why the house fills with smoke. I usually build the fire and then spray with cleaning products or polish (something not too flammable) before lighting so it ignites fast and warms the flue quick. Leaving the stove door slightly open and a house window or door open does help to. I was told to open the stove vents at night time so the fire is not suffocated otherwise the fumes come into the house and sets of the CO alarm.

We also get the smell of smoke in the house on a cold day / morning due to the dense air in the flue.

Do you also get smoke in the house when you open the stove door if it is lit?

The primary air control on my stove which is a dial on the door like many others doesn't fully close but leaves a 1 to 2mm gap the whole way round the dial ... should it be like that??
 
If not the bolt that feeds through the door that the dial screws onto may just be fractionally too long, there are already a couple of spacers / washers on it, I could easily remove the bolt and add 1 or 2 more which would probably mean it closed fully but not sure of it's been designed / fitted so it shouldn't?
 
If anybody happens to know would be much appreciated, I was going to e-mail the manufacturer but in these strange times combined with the new year thought it may be a while before I received a reply.

@PhillH  this one, spare battery necessary i found, abt 15 20 mins flight. K
 

2.4G Wireless Remote Drones Large Quadcopter Wifi FPV Adjustable HD Camera Drone

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Feature:

1.4-Axis Structure: 4-Axis gyroscope strong stability, easily implement various flight movements, stronger wind resistance, easier to control.

2.Fast Focus: Focus...  

Mine wireless to my phone and uses phone camera  to store, 44squid off ebay nother 8 squid fr spare battery which you WILL need, good pics n movie and as you say it has to take knocks. But mine just clips back together. K

Problem is it didnt affect the old fire and lighting it is no problem. Its just to get a good flame you need the top vent fully open and a bottom open as well ( to varying degrees) the stockton downstairs  runs fine on just the top vent open from 1/4 to 1/2

That was my thinking
I hall try with the fan tonight , after checking the baffle and fire bricks.

Hi@chalgravesteve did you get any replies? Looking for something myself

Cheers

Phill.

Hi Guys
211c I took in part-ex. Very little use. Turns over perfectly without the sparkplug. Replace plug and it is like pulling over a 1000cc saw. No fuel in crankcase, piston clean and smooth. Can't even pull it over properly to get a reading on compression tester. Ideas very welcome, got me stumped. TIA.

Strange - did you change the gauze strainer as it sounds like you have fuel starvation. Did you reset the height of the metering arm when you changed it?
Try disconnecting the kill wire from the coil and retest, it is possibly an HT or kill wire issue but it sounds more like a carb issue to me - possibly a stuck shut check valve and will need a good clean in an ultrasonic cleaner with the H&L screw removed. 
Try another carb?

MS201.....Mtronic or normal carb? Will it idle steadily or unevenly? Can you get the revs up by blipping, feathering the throttle?