PhillH

cheers - gotta do something that doesn't shock downwards too much as it's seated in soft chinese alloy probably

Hi, bit brutal but try knocking a “old” torx bit in. Something slightly bigger than the Allan key. The shock usually help release it too. If you can, try pushing directly down on it whilst undoing it to. For example if using a ratchet push down on the mechanism whilst ratcheting so the torx does not go over to one side.

like this.

Hi there, it may be worth getting a Flue thermometer to see if you are running at the correct temperature. It has three stages to show where you should be. When mine gets slightly too warm I get a smell which is hard to explain but I put it down to the stove being really warm. But slow the the fire down and it goes away. With regards to your flue, if I am looking at your photographs right you have a 5” single wall flue going to a 5” twin wall flue which has a outside diameter of 7” (approx) this is still 5” internal with 1” of insulation. Have you check the smell is not coming from anything around it once it gets warm? Paint, wood?

There are loads of videos on how to do it. Tree Monkey does a good one if I remember. It’s easy to do, but everyone has slightly different methods, so can’t always count on comparing numbers to what others have.

Check out the ironhorse on YouTube, he does some videos explaining port mapping. I thought he explained it well.

A bit extreme, the beauty of the two stroke is set port timing, very few moving parts and complexity compared to a four stroke engine.
But - go ahead and I guess most of us have 6 weeks + of being locked up so plenty of time to fiddle....good luck!

What is the reason to know the duration and opening timings of your saw? TBH, you will need a timing wheel, a method of fixing it to your saw, a pointer and then there are a number of ways that the durations can be expressed so you will need to get your head round those if comparing them.
A little knowledge can sometimes be dangerous!

Hi all,

Looking for some help, I am rebuilding a MS440 and will replace piston and cylinder.

Whist waiting for parts to be delivered I have been doing some googling about port timing and would like to check mine when i get that far.

Does anyone have any instructions or recommend a good youtube video? maybe a video one someone from here has put together?

Thank you

Phill.

L&S are pretty damn good, fast delivery and always tell you if there is a delay. Out of stock parts are generally fulfilled pretty fast.

DIYSpares are having a bit of trouble getting parts I think, ordered a tank breather a couple of weeks ago and it still isn’t here, tried contacting them and just got a generic email in reply.
Ordered the same part from L&S out of stock, came 3 days later, and no word from DIYSpares. If your in a bind, I’d email/message L&S and they’ll give you a lead time.
They’ve helped me out loads during my 261 build, and I’m happy getting OEM quality for a little extra and P&P, just make a list, postage is reasonable in my opinion, DIYSpares charge a flat £4 odd, and I’m unsure if it increases for larger items.

If you want to pay over the odds on some part that are generic and if you pocket ok with that.?. But when I rebuilt my 044 a few months back I looky-around and was  Surprised at the price difference for the same bearing.
 
you will find one side of the crank is only used by stihl  and or where ever sells that type and the other-side  any bearing seller sell it. 
 
let me find the ones I brought 
 
flywheel side 6202 see pics £2.60 inc post. You could look around but you need the C3 grade....
 
l&s price  £9.10 (not sure if that in ex vat or not) plus postage but you'd be buying other stuff (I know I showed a 461 price but it’s the same thing)
 
but you have to buy the clutch side from somewhere like l&s and as you will be buying other stuff it may as well be from the same place   And L&s price £10.20 ( I did look at the 461 but it’s the same bearing afaik with out looking it up)

Stihl Oil seal DIN3760-BS18x29,6x5/3 - 9640 003 1972

WWW.DIYSPAREPARTS.COM

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Oil Seal 13x19x4 for Stihl 009, 044 - 9640 003 1320 | L&S Engineers

WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK

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Oil seal 13x19x4 Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 9640 003 1320 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: 009, 044...  
 

Stihl Grooved ball bearing 15x35x13 - 9523 003 4275

WWW.DIYSPAREPARTS.COM

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Stihl Grooved ball bearing DIN625-6202 - 9503 003 0346

WWW.DIYSPAREPARTS.COM

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L and S engineers. 

Hi all,

I am rebuilding a MS440 and struggling to get OEM or decent crank bearings and seals.

Ignition side is a non sealed 6202 but clutch side is a 6202 with a wider outer race to allow the seal to be fitted into the bearing housing.

Part number I believe are:

9503 003 0346 - Ignition site bearing

9640 003 1320 - Ignition side seal

9523 003 4275  - Clutch side bearing

9640 003 1972 - Clutch side seal

Can anyone point me in the right direction for a good stockist or has anyone cross referenced them against a SKF or NTN?

Thank you in advance.

Phill.

Hi Eggs, chances are some of them are old faults and a possibility that some may come back due to failing components. A friend had a MK6 transit that had a fault every week, he spent a fortune listening to people, I bought this and found the fault straight away. Code readers and Snap On Solus won’t read MK6 Transits. I know your sorted now but invest in your own diagnostics if you have a laptop. I highly recommend this one from EBay and there forum and support is really good

SUPER 2 Interface Scanner USB SCAN TOOL Reader for Ford Transit Mondeo Focus OBD

WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

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· Audio Interface Module (AIM). · Accessory Protocol Interface Module (APIM). USB diagnostic scan tool. · Vehicle Dynamics Module (VDM). Laptop based diagnostic USB lead. · All Wheel Drive Module (AWD).

Hi there,
A decent fabrication / engineering shop should be able to knock you up a new one. Unless you have something special it is only a box section frame welded together. Ideally it would be better to lift the back off and unbolt the frame from the chassis so they can copy and get dimensions right. (They could do that if they have a fork lift) If the back is good then it might even be worth getting the subframe galvanised so it lasts and can be transferred to your next truck.

No problem, let us know how you get on.

Hi there, we also have a BC620i. We swapped the engine for a Deutz when the Hatz give up. We run two separate belts. Take your belt to Compass Bearings & Engineering Supplies in Rainford and they should help you out. If not try Engineering Services In Widnes but they are a bit more expensive

Hi there, have you thought about swapping out the motor for a single phase motor? It should be easy enough to get a like for like unit with same mounting and shaft size. The only issue would be if it is controlled by a control panel but if it’s a on/off switch should not be a problem. You would have to see what HP motor is needed. Have a word with your spark.

Hey, have you tried blanking the pipes off and spraying soapy water around the grommets/pipes and then blow in to the tank from the cap and see where the bubbles come from. With all them new parts it could be a small crack in the tank.

Hi, try Water Lane Farm, Tarbock. More details in the Tip sites directory.

Hi there,

If your battery was flat and the the alternator is not charging the battery then it will not be able to power the stress control. It will work for a couple of minutes until it has used all the life from the battery after the jump start. Get a multi meter and check if your battery is charging around 12.5v - 13v. Also most solenoids need than 12.5v to activate so if your alternator is not putting out enough volts that could be your problem. If you get stuck swap the battery of your van on to the chipper to keep it going for a few hours. A decent auto elec should be able to test and overhaul your alternator.

The other problem could that your battery is knackered and not holding a charge.

Hope this makes sense

Hi
Battery on my Greenmech 130 was flat this morning.Jump started it  but soon after the rollers stopped intermittengly.Mechanic looked at it and reckoned altenator or reformer broken.Would this problem affect the current going to the no stress and stop the rollers turning.
Thanks
RMB 

I'd like to tap your brains Ratman - recently I had to get a new diesel pump and EGR on my Mk6 Transit, I don't want to say what I paid the garage, suffice to say its given me more impetus to learn mechanics, anyway when I got it back it sometimes flashes on the immob red led, I know these will do that to display that a fault code is logged, theres youtube vids to show how to read the fault from the flashes, what I'm asking you is as a home mechanic if you wanted to get serious what gear would you buy to do all the electronics at home I'm thinking IDS, Bosch KTS 650 etc. I know a virginised pump doesnt need diag, but I'm asking what gear could I buy to not only read , but clear codes in my Ford and would it need another box for Iveco daily, also what subscriptions and costs or not necessary?
thanks