PhillH

Hi all,

 

I have a MS201 that will start eventually but cuts out pretty much straight away or as soon as you touch the throttle.

 

Taking Spuds previous advice on another saw I started with the easy stuff and have replaced the plug, fuel filter and put a gasket kit in the carb but no difference.

 

Anyone have any ideas or is there anything common on these saws.

 

Thank you all in advance.

 

Phill

£380 fine,  no points on the drivers licence, thankfully.. and the added cost/ time of pulling a crew off another job to go and collect the excess weight from the pulled truck. 

Thanks@TIMON I was just curious as we all do it and most of the time not intensional

That is impressive... I could live with the bone-shaking cramped-ness for that kind of payload on a 3.5t truck. DVSA seem to be everywhere right now.
One of our tranny’s got pulled the other day.. 40 rolls of turf and a turf cutter, 3 guys - 800kg over.

Hi@TIMON, what was the outcome of being over if you don’t mind me asking?

Hi all, a quick update after the support you all gave me. Striped the carb yesterday and gave it a good clean. Assembled with the new gaskets and diaphragm from Rowena motors. Gave it a little more fuel as recommended by@spudulike Put it back together and started after about 6-7 pulls and started first time a few hours later. Checked it again tonight from cold and stared the same 6-7 pulls. It’s starting a lot better than it was and revs up a lot smoother. Fingers crossed it is cured. Thanks again to all for there help and advice

Rowena motors will be cheaper for carb kit, very prompt service as well.

Hi@htb I ordered a kit from Rowena today, excellent service. Will definitely use them again. Thank you for the recommendation

Ah...Zama C1Q.....the C1Q is fitted to a raft of machines....blowers, saws, strimmers and all are slightly different. The adjusters on yours I believe will be "Hexagonal" ones, you just need the correct adjustment tool, you may find it just needs a bit more fuel and an adjustment will sort it - seen it many times before. No #5 on this listing: -

Carburetor Screwdriver Set,LouisaYork 8Pcs Adjustment Tool Kit Carb Adjusting Screwdriver,Adjustment Splined Carb Tool Kit Chainsaw Trimmer Set: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

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Shop Carburetor Screwdriver Set, LouisaYork 8Pcs Adjustment Tool Kit Carb Adjusting Screwdriver, Adjustment Splined... Same as one of the sets I have and does pretty much all machines that I have come across...apart from Autotune[emoji6]
Stihl like to set their settings a little lean to adhere to the EPA regs - it means some machines over rev when they loosen up a bit.
 

@spudulike , thanks again for your help, I will order one of those kits and see how I get on. I ordered a kit from Rowena today. Excellent customer service to say the least.

I’m certainly no oil guru but have heard from someone with a lot more knowledge than me that the Rock Oil Groundsman oil is apparently very good/high spec, better than the stihl gear.

Hi@monkeybusiness thank you, that’s is good to know.

The "very little use" means more than the year. With a machine like this, I would always look at the carb and fuel filter/line after adjusting those niggly tappets of course....and then look at other possible issues!

Thank you @spuduline your the man who knows I hope your right. When I took the cover off to check the tappets, it was very clean and shiny so I do believe my dad when he says it has not done much. Are these ZAMA C1Q carbs adjustable as I read a thread that say they are not. They have the 4mm heads

Try the easy options first and then explore the more difficult ones if the easy ones don't cure it. It always helps to know the age and condition of the unit.

@spudulike it’s a 2015 but in very good condition and had very little use. That’s the annoying part. I will go with your recommendations and let you know the outcome.

My 101 had the same issues, although I run it in Aspen. Went in to Stihl shop and they “ put new valves in”. Runs just like a gypsy stick should now [emoji106]

@oldwoodcutter thank you for sharing, I hope it does not come to that. Let’s see how the carb overhaul and new mix goes first.

Thanks again.

Red Stihl oil isn’t recommended for 4-mix engines as it carbons them up. We used to have issues but moved to the green oil and have been fine since. 

Cheers Monkeybusiness, I had read a few post about them carbon’ing up. Definitely worth a try to see if we notice a difference

Thanks for your help

Red Stihl is just a lower spec oil, HP Super is probably the best choice £££ to performance wise.
Another thumbs up for Rowena, excellent service which is typically one day from order to delivery. I do always try to bulk up my orders so they are worth processing but more difficult when ordering a single carb kit.

Thanks again Spud, I called my dad and he uses Rock oil Groundsman. Have you had any dealings with it? I will call Rowena tomorrow. I am sure I will need a kit for something et else.

Don’t run them on the red Stihl oil either. 

Hi Monkeybusiness, why do you say that? Have you had problems using it? What’s the issues you have had as that’s what I have been using so would be interested to know.

Thank you

Rowena motors will be cheaper for carb kit, very prompt service as well.

Thank you HTB, I will give them a try.

Most likely carb issues, check the gauze strainer by pulling it out of the carb and inspecting with a magnifying glass. It is easy to think they are clean when in situ....learnt the hard way on that......or just swap it out!
Pump diaphragms can perforate so check that in a similar way.
Try starting it without the head on and see if it is OK like that, a tight cutting head or faulty oiler can cause bogging symptoms.
Other than that, these four stroke  units often lag on the throttle if the accelerator pump is worn. It is a bit difficult to change for the uninitiated but had this on one KM100 I worked on, very flat on the throttle response and fitting a new pump cured it!
Try the easy things first!

Thanks Spud, I will order a carb kit from L&S and report back how I get on.

Hi all,

 

I have a HT101 pole saw with running issues, first of all it wasn’t easy to start and then it would struggle to rev up when cold, once warm it would bog down. So I have started with the basics, checked valve clearance, new plug, new air and fuel filter. It then started and was more responsive but now it does not want to start. My next thought was a carb clean and new gaskets. Any ideas anyone?

 

Thank you in advance.

Thanks. Yeah it’s easy enough to take off, just haven’t a clue where to get something like and waiting for a part from Hyundai supplier, taking ages.

Hi Stu, as Dan says you should be able to get bearings off the shelf. Take it off, knock the bearings out and see if there is any numbers on the side of the outer race. Might need rubbing on some emery cloth to bring the numbers up. If there is no numbers then measure them and search on line. Alternatively go and see a engineering workshop, they should help you out. List the measurements on here if you have no luck.

They look good but might not be good for the OP as it would mean the spark plug wouldn’t seat as far down as required and would pull the spark away from the cylinder if ya get me, the plug would seat on the flange of the insert and not the face of the cylinder. Would be good in other applications though, such as a sump plug repair etc.

I get what your saying Ratman, could always put a small chamfer as the flange is tiny. They are like a serated design so they do not unscrew which is the problem I see with heli coils. I am sure we will find out one way or another how OP gets on.

Hi, have a look at these. I found them better than heli coil. I haven’t bought any for a while but they will be available online. They are one piece rather than spring design and have a shoulder on the top. They are designed for spark plug / heater plug thread repairs.

++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs,

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One for the guys with units, we rent a largeish unit on a farm with a concrete floor, it was used as potato storage many years ago and is a great unit with our office at one end, the only draw back is its very dusty, when i clean the office give it say 2 weeks and there is a layer of dust over everything.
 
I'm wondering if sealing the concrete floor or painting it would make much of a difference, any opinions???

Hi Ian, not sure how much traffic it will see but I had a similar issue. Someone recommended PVA glue and water. I mixed It in a bucket and poured it on. Went over it with a brush to work it in and it’s been fine since. Cheap and easy. Just make a strong mix. Try a small area and see what you think.

Just bought one - had an option to checkout with Amazon which worked well... ie you stayed on their website but it pulled in details and card info from Amazon..

Hi Rob, Hi-lift are a brilliant Jack especially as there is service kits / spare parts available. We have also used the turfing function when stuck off road and the electric winch has failed.

Seeing as though he is unable to use the bar and chain keep a eye out for him listing them on eBay, use another eBay account and do the exact same thing to him. Make sure you send him a nice message once you have your bar, chains and refund back [emoji846]. He is probably doing it to everyone..

For the PU adhesive use “Tiger Seal”, that stuff is stronger than a weld on aluminium but don’t get it on your hands or you will have a tattoo for the next 6 month. Lotus Elise aluminium chassis where bonded together, not sure what they used.

Hi, I know when you change a battery on a Audi it needs coding to the car so Land Rover could be the same with the new technology. It will start but start to bring up faults and not charge. Also the battery has to be of the same type so best to order the battery from the reg plate. Land Rover / Range Rover have changed a lot over the years. Even head lights are coded on the new ones so they can not be just swapped with out the software.

Might be worth checking the exciter wire is getting a feed too.

My Discovery 4 started to misbehave the other day, restricted performance and when I plugged in the OBD2 device, it came up with a fault code for charging issues and it was only reading 12.9v at 2000rpm. After a right battle, I fitted a new alternator. The battery was new about 8 months ago and the indicator is green. Took it up the road and the dash lit up with every fault going!  HDC,EBD, Gearbox, ABS blah blah blah.....I  tried the trick of disconnecting the battery for 20mins then keeping the car pos and neg together to reset the ECU, but it still says "charging fault". OBD says we are getting 13.9v at 2000 rpm.
 
Anyone got a clue?

Hi, I know when you change a battery on a Audi it needs coding to the car so Land Rover could be the same with the new technology. It will start but start to bring up faults and not charge. Also the battery has to be of the same type so best to order the battery from the reg plate. Land Rover / Range Rover have changed a lot over the years. Even head lights are coded on the new ones so they can not be just swapped with out the software.