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Posts posted by PhillH
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Hi there, I have a external flue so it may not be your issue but I find that if we have a cold / damp evening the cold air is dense and pushes the Smokey smell back in the room, usually notice it of a morning when I come downstairs. Traditional chimneys are usually ok but don’t know your environment.
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Hi,
I am looking to buy a wagon load of timber for firewood. It does not need to be pretty as it will not be going through a processor.
Would anyone have any contacts?
Also able to collect smaller loads in a close radius to outskirts of Liverpool.
We have a few stoves in the family and our usual supply is no longer available.
Thank you in advance.
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@stubby nothing worse than reading a thread to get to the end and find there is no feedback if the issue was resolved. I have wasted a lot of time due to that.Its nice to get feed back when peeps are trying to help . Not everyone does [emoji106]- 6
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Hi @Paddy1000111 & @Wonky really appreciate your replies. I have swapped out the plugs and filter already to rule them out. I have had the carb apart but will check that again just to be 100%, I need to check the inlet arrangement as well to see how fuel is drawn into each cylinder. Looking at the coils, it does say they are handed but I am wondering if that is just down to the length of the leads? If they are not sealed then I may swap the coils around. Will also check the air gaps too.
Thank again for you support and appreciate the time you have take to pull out assembly drawings etc.
Hi @paddy1000111 & @wonky if we ever cross paths, I owe you both a pint. Striped the carb back down, nothing obvious but blew it all out. No sign of blockages or debris but built it back up. She started much better and back to firing on two cylinders again. Really appreciate you taking the time to offer advice.
Cheers, Phill.- 4
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Hi @Paddy1000111 & @Wonky really appreciate your replies. I have swapped out the plugs and filter already to rule them out. I have had the carb apart but will check that again just to be 100%, I need to check the inlet arrangement as well to see how fuel is drawn into each cylinder. Looking at the coils, it does say they are handed but I am wondering if that is just down to the length of the leads? If they are not sealed then I may swap the coils around. Will also check the air gaps too.
Thank again for you support and appreciate the time you have take to pull out assembly drawings etc.- 1
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Hi all, finally got round to taking a look again today. Done a compression test on both cylinders wet and dry, both measured around the same and all reading’s are within the spec from the manual (85psi dry / 95psi wet)
I checked the temperature on each cylinder and it seems one side is not firing as it’s not getting warm, I pulled the lead and no difference but pulled the other side and it stalled.
With the plug out, it is sparking but it does seem to be slightly damp.
Has anyone had this issue before, next thing to check is if the coils are handed so I can swap them to try and rule out the coil.
Thank you in advance -
I had a look around, found the 690 service manual, it should be pretty much the same, as you will see the models it covers. [emoji6]
as I was looking through it, I,m not sure if you have one fitted , I know in the USA and other dry places they have to have a spark screen in the exhaust..if you have one and it’s blocked that will give low power.
heres the link to the service manual.
https://www.lindec.com/download/14043667571_Honda_GX630-660-690-workshop_manual.pdf
and as you can see from the screenshot I took. Low power is because of some of the things I said before [emoji106]
edit this 670 manual
http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/engines/pdf/manuals/00X37Z6C6120.pdf
Hi@wonky thank you for extensive reply, you have given me plenty to go at here. The issue I have is that I do not know the full history of the engine.
It’s starts fine hot and cold, there is no smoke and it does not use oil. The oil may not have been changed regularly enough as it does not get used a lot but totally understand what your saying. I am almost certain there is no spark screen but will check.
Next think to check is compression and governor.
I will report back, thank you.- 1
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Hi all,
Looking for some help with a Honda GX670 24HP engine.
The engine is down on power, to the point it stalls when engaging the fly wheel If you do not engage it really slowly (Flywheel spins freely so it’s not that.
I have checked the obvious such as plugs, valve clearance, fuel filter, cleaned the carb but still no different.
Has anyone had similar faults or have any ideas? It would be appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
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http://www.logs.co.com/?product=the-garden-cube-outdoor-stove
Absolutely fantastic piece of kit. 4 glass sides. 1.5m flue. really solid construction and weighs 90Kg so its not going to move!
You can get you current "Rule of 6" around it, no one is getting covered in smoke or ash.
RRP is £1495 inc VAT and delivery to most mainland UK addresses. I'm happy to do an "arbtalk" deal for anyone interested. Please PM me.
Hi, what is the heat output like? -
Hi Phill. What's happened is convesa have changed the way thier flues lock together. So even though it's all the same make the last 500mm on my flue is actually different to the rest. I have had to modify the structural band that clamps the last 500mm pipe to the rest of my flue.
I've had a fire going since Saturday and all seems well.
Hi @JT19 glad you have solved the problem, hope it’s stays that way. Thank you for your feedback. -
Hi.@JT19 did you find anything?
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I'll get pics up tomorrow as it'll explain it easier.
Do you have a convesa flue pipe?
No, I’m not sure on the make as it was already installed but it is annoying the life out of me trying to find where the water is getting in. Would not mind but it was like a tap with the heavy rain we have had. Interested to know your findings. -
Hi @JT19 I have a similar issue but can not trace where the water is coming in. Do you know where water is getting in between your two walls?
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Hi @Gtflash have you had time to make any changes? Just wondering how you are getting on and if there is any improvement?
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Hi@Gtflash I have the exact same problems, I called the supplier of the flue and he told me a anti down draft cowl would not help and to install a vent behind the stove but not link it directly. He also told me that cold air is more dense that hot air and that is why the house fills with smoke. I usually build the fire and then spray with cleaning products or polish (something not too flammable) before lighting so it ignites fast and warms the flue quick. Leaving the stove door slightly open and a house window or door open does help to. I was told to open the stove vents at night time so the fire is not suffocated otherwise the fumes come into the house and sets of the CO alarm.
We also get the smell of smoke in the house on a cold day / morning due to the dense air in the flue.
Do you also get smoke in the house when you open the stove door if it is lit?
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The primary air control on my stove which is a dial on the door like many others doesn't fully close but leaves a 1 to 2mm gap the whole way round the dial ... should it be like that??
If not the bolt that feeds through the door that the dial screws onto may just be fractionally too long, there are already a couple of spacers / washers on it, I could easily remove the bolt and add 1 or 2 more which would probably mean it closed fully but not sure of it's been designed / fitted so it shouldn't?
If anybody happens to know would be much appreciated, I was going to e-mail the manufacturer but in these strange times combined with the new year thought it may be a while before I received a reply.
Hi, I have a lever to control the air supply. When first installed I could not shut the control completely. There was a plate with a M6 bolt restricting it. It was a defra approved stove. As Stubby says, it’s for smokeless zones. Just be careful not to suffocate the fire if you add the washers. -
@PhillH this one, spare battery necessary i found, abt 15 20 mins flight. K
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Thank you @Khriss- 1
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Problem is it didnt affect the old fire and lighting it is no problem. Its just to get a good flame you need the top vent fully open and a bottom open as well ( to varying degrees) the stockton downstairs runs fine on just the top vent open from 1/4 to 1/2
Definitely worth checking for blockages, get some smoke bombs and see what the outcome is. Also don’t forget you have two fires fighting for air. They usually mention any extractor fans when doing tests. Do both chimneys come out the same stack? So both the same height and not affected by the apex of the roof?
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That was my thinking
I hall try with the fan tonight , after checking the baffle and fire bricks.
Hi@stringman I have a similar issue, when lighting the fire, the cold air outside overcomes the warm air from the fire so I have to open a window to get a decent draft until it is fully alight. I have since put a 3” vent through the wall directly behind then intake with a slide vent to shut it off. All new builds are required to have a air feed now. As mentioned above, try opening a window. -
Hi@chalgravesteve did you get any replies? Looking for something myself
Cheers
Phill. -
Hi Guys
211c I took in part-ex. Very little use. Turns over perfectly without the sparkplug. Replace plug and it is like pulling over a 1000cc saw. No fuel in crankcase, piston clean and smooth. Can't even pull it over properly to get a reading on compression tester. Ideas very welcome, got me stumped. TIA.
Blocked exhaust? Correct plug and not too long?- 1
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Strange - did you change the gauze strainer as it sounds like you have fuel starvation. Did you reset the height of the metering arm when you changed it?
Try disconnecting the kill wire from the coil and retest, it is possibly an HT or kill wire issue but it sounds more like a carb issue to me - possibly a stuck shut check valve and will need a good clean in an ultrasonic cleaner with the H&L screw removed.
Try another carb?
Hi@spudulike yes I replaced the gauze strainer. I will try your suggestions and report back.
Thanks again. -
MS201.....Mtronic or normal carb? Will it idle steadily or unevenly? Can you get the revs up by blipping, feathering the throttle?
Normal carb@spudulike, it will idle for a couple of seconds before cutting out. It will rev up of a blip straight after starting if you do not let it idle but then cuts out.
Thanks Spud.
Smell from next doors wood burner
in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
Posted
It could be your own if the dense air is coming down your chimney and vents care left open. Would be worth checking if her stove is lit when you are experiencing this. Smoke test will confirm any leaks