Conner

Had something similar on a 150. The splines had worn in the roller coupling. Turned due to friction when not loaded but stopped when loaded. Took a little bit of finding.

Thanks for that Gents explained it all. I think this may be a rule or urban myth from the trailer licence. Eg you can’t tow an empty trailer which would put you over when loaded. it’s not a particular big trailer and looks right on the van. thanks again

Thanks gents I have tried searching but doesn’t seam to work. I hope you are right as I will still tow. I have always believed the theoretical weight was the problem. As we all know this is daft. I’m going to also put a sticker on for when towed by the van as a reminder to myself. So if overweight weigh bridge is required .

The biggest problem is and a stupidity part of the law. Although on a weigh bridge the trailer is say weighed at 800kg. 300kg under the vans max of 1100kg. Should not be a problem. BUT as the trailer COULD be up to 1400kg this is classed as overweight. Because the van can’t tow the full weight possiable. I only use it to transport my small pencil sharpener chipper.

This might sound like a daft question. Due to circumstances I have sold my old tow vehicle and dropped down to an NV200 people carrier with no back seats. Max towing capacity 1100kg. I have a small braked Ifor trailer with a Max gross weight of 1400 kg. I know I can be stopped and had for being overweight with the trailer empty due to potentially filling trailer to max capacity. my question is can I put a large yellow sticker on the trailer stating max gross 1100kg and have max load and empty weight on the sticker as well so it looks right. I know most coppers don’t know towing laws I used to teach it to them abt 30 years ago but am well out of the trailer law game now. what are your thoughts

Having a bit of a hard time with a TW230. To start the rollers forward. Press LHS forward button nothing happens. Press RHS button rollers start. Stop rollers now LHS buttons working fine. LHS &RHS as feeding into hopper. All works ok until switched off then LHS stops working until RHS is pressed. Any ideas gents. Or pointers.

Thanks for that. I have an idea no fuel could be the solenoid. But no spark as well so I suspect electrical problem. Hoping for a starting point as not sure with modern 2021 saws

I have been asked to look at a T540. It won’t start. I’m lead to believe it was running ok. One day and wouldn’t work the next. Checked stop switch looks ok. Plug is dry after many pulls so suspect no fuel. Also tried to see a spark with plug grounded no spark I can see. Not too familiar with the auto tune saws a bit new for me but want to learn. Where would you suggest starting. Hope this repair doesn’t take as long as the last one🤣

Well gents as we all like the OP to give feedback. Finally got round to having another look. As I have acquired a non running 560 with a very good oem barrel, piston and circlips. Swapped over required parts and saw running well with warm hands. Handy in this sleet.

I used to work in a foundry. We had a nut blaster machine crushed wallnut shell blasted through with air like a shot blast. Didn’t erode the dies like shot. Brilliant for bike parts on night shift as alloy was too soft for the shot blast.

Don’t normally post on bull but isn’t a botty cough just a big smelly fart. So as he says himself I talk shite

There will be no air in the oil. The valve should be open at all times and only closed when unit is tipped up to stop leaks. As the ram lowers the oil is drawn from the tank. If air cannot enter the tank a vacuum will occur possibly causing damage. Hope this helps

Had mine for about 3 months. Best fitting ear protection I’ve ever had. Also noticed not had a twig slapping my nose end while feeding chipper unlike my old petzel.

If going to go battery. I would go for makita. I’ve had the Dewalt and are slow. I have the Stihl 181. Been absolutely hammered and can’t kill it.

I’ve had the Titon one from screw fix. It’s about 5 year old now and still going strong. No problems so far.