Conner

I have. I use motomix as most of the kit isn’t used that often so added a little bit more oil to it.

Well took a £20 punt on the new pot and piston. Fitted fine. Cleaned carb and refitted. Tried to start. Coughed on choke all good. Switched choke off a couple of pulls. Bloody starter cord snapped. went for beer. back on this morning new cord heated plug with small blow torch. Started ok and running nice. Will get it ran in with a bit of load soon but all looks ok. Thanks for all the advice.

Thanks checked carb and all looks good. Surprised it ran with such low compression.

Well tried settings no go. Pulled carb to have a look. Spotted piston through port . Scored, removed exhaust also scored. Probably ram with no oil. Going to try the new pot and piston in pic. Once fitted will check for air leaks etc. hopefully all ok. My own machine and not going to have heavy use.

Thank you il try the settings first then the carb. Suspet the diaphragm myself as when running it is hunting. Just needed a starting point.

Thankyou il give that a go this morning.

Yes I understand that. I’ve set a few chainsaws up. Normally there is a separate hi and low. And a separate LA for the idle. Unsure how the high and low can be controlled by one screw.

I have tried to search the forum but have drawn a blank. I recently acquired an HS 80 hedge trimmer. Looks to be in good condition. It’s not running very well. It either runs ok once started but dies at idle or won’t rev. There are only 2 adjusting screws. As in first pic. The case shows H/L for one and LA for the other. Can anyone help me with some base settings. I’ve tried 1-2 turns out on HL. Which will get it to start but the LA doesn’t seam to do much. Just need a starting point. Thanks in advance.

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks gents thought it was strange with no sprocket. Will have to get a sprocket bar next time. Don’t think it will take long to wear as generates a lot of heat.

I’ve been working on a ms880. Not oiling. Now fixed gummed up pump. Noticed the 42” bar has no sprocket just a solid nose. Is this normal as I would have thought it would have created more friction I’ve not used a saw this big too heavy. So wondering if this is normal.

Had something similar on a 150. The splines had worn in the roller coupling. Turned due to friction when not loaded but stopped when loaded. Took a little bit of finding.

Thanks for that Gents explained it all. I think this may be a rule or urban myth from the trailer licence. Eg you can’t tow an empty trailer which would put you over when loaded. it’s not a particular big trailer and looks right on the van. thanks again

Thanks gents I have tried searching but doesn’t seam to work. I hope you are right as I will still tow. I have always believed the theoretical weight was the problem. As we all know this is daft. I’m going to also put a sticker on for when towed by the van as a reminder to myself. So if overweight weigh bridge is required .

The biggest problem is and a stupidity part of the law. Although on a weigh bridge the trailer is say weighed at 800kg. 300kg under the vans max of 1100kg. Should not be a problem. BUT as the trailer COULD be up to 1400kg this is classed as overweight. Because the van can’t tow the full weight possiable. I only use it to transport my small pencil sharpener chipper.

This might sound like a daft question. Due to circumstances I have sold my old tow vehicle and dropped down to an NV200 people carrier with no back seats. Max towing capacity 1100kg. I have a small braked Ifor trailer with a Max gross weight of 1400 kg. I know I can be stopped and had for being overweight with the trailer empty due to potentially filling trailer to max capacity. my question is can I put a large yellow sticker on the trailer stating max gross 1100kg and have max load and empty weight on the sticker as well so it looks right. I know most coppers don’t know towing laws I used to teach it to them abt 30 years ago but am well out of the trailer law game now. what are your thoughts