Conner

Thanks for that. I have an idea no fuel could be the solenoid. But no spark as well so I suspect electrical problem. Hoping for a starting point as not sure with modern 2021 saws

I have been asked to look at a T540. It won’t start. I’m lead to believe it was running ok. One day and wouldn’t work the next. Checked stop switch looks ok. Plug is dry after many pulls so suspect no fuel. Also tried to see a spark with plug grounded no spark I can see. Not too familiar with the auto tune saws a bit new for me but want to learn. Where would you suggest starting. Hope this repair doesn’t take as long as the last one🤣

Well gents as we all like the OP to give feedback. Finally got round to having another look. As I have acquired a non running 560 with a very good oem barrel, piston and circlips. Swapped over required parts and saw running well with warm hands. Handy in this sleet.

I used to work in a foundry. We had a nut blaster machine crushed wallnut shell blasted through with air like a shot blast. Didn’t erode the dies like shot. Brilliant for bike parts on night shift as alloy was too soft for the shot blast.

Don’t normally post on bull but isn’t a botty cough just a big smelly fart. So as he says himself I talk shite

There will be no air in the oil. The valve should be open at all times and only closed when unit is tipped up to stop leaks. As the ram lowers the oil is drawn from the tank. If air cannot enter the tank a vacuum will occur possibly causing damage. Hope this helps

Had mine for about 3 months. Best fitting ear protection I’ve ever had. Also noticed not had a twig slapping my nose end while feeding chipper unlike my old petzel.

If going to go battery. I would go for makita. I’ve had the Dewalt and are slow. I have the Stihl 181. Been absolutely hammered and can’t kill it.

I’ve had the Titon one from screw fix. It’s about 5 year old now and still going strong. No problems so far.

Ye coving was badly fitted. The joint had cracked out so a gap available. It was fitted 25 years ago in a hurry.

Yes wardrobes have gone. There was coving where the mould patch is. The worst part was under the coving and a line on the outside. As previously said the insulation was not fitted above this area it was abt 6” short of the wall . I have insulated this now.

Yes this is on the corner of the fitted wardrobe vent in wardrobe old air brick so always cold in there. Thought it would be better than blocking it up though.

Yes I think the temp difference is the problem. There is a small patch in the same place in the other bedroom. Traditional roof construction tiles and felt. I have checked the vents many times for leaks. Today is dry but a cold wind. The ceiling directly below the vent is very cold compared to the rest . Will duct the vents at 90’ into the loft

Well gents as she who makes all the decisions has decided to have the wardrobes pulled out. I have found the cause of my condensation problem. The problem area is directly under a vent in the roof so cold bridging as the cold air from outside blows directly onto the insulation creating a cold area on the ceiling. Some ducting needed me thinks.

Yes it’s the mineral wool. Most of the problems are above the windows only 2 courses on bricks above these so no wall insulation. I will see what insulating properly in the loft dose