Rob_the_Sparky

It need not be a veranda but if you have a blank wall you can build a vented wood structure against it large enough to store your logs (or even put the IBC straight in??). If you have a door in this wall then instant access to logs from inside and out. Most of us mere mortals put up with logs racks and/or garage (I store dried logs in there) close to the back door though Don;t get very wet fetching logs into the house as it isn't very far and paths ensure no mud.

Don't understand. Any carbon that can be locked up is less in the atmosphere to worry about. Got nothing to do with kids, it would be in the atmosphere quicker if chipped or burnt having a worse impact on the atmosphere. Got any better suggestions to add to the discussion?

How can you smell the laurel when it is on the burner? TBH I'm much with the earlier statement, if it is seasoned it is good. Maybe because I'm burning arisings so I burn what I get. Some woods are better for slow burn, some for getting quick heat. I have also learned (only been doing it a few years) that it is better to split some woods into larger chunks and some into smaller bits. I.e. the lighter softwoods just don;t last long enough in small chunks and also can burn very hot if you put several on at once, solution is to leave it in big chunks. These last longer and don't burn so hot. Do the same with a dense wood though and it could the fire too much, with these it is better to put on two smaller chunks than one big one. Sorry for not doing it by species, I generally don;t know so judge it by density generally. The load of Cherry I got last year was nice and Laurel is good but I rarely get decent diameter wood.

I've got a magnetic thermometer as above but this was my first log burner and it certainly has helped to learn to drive it. I still find it useful occasionally but don't sit there monitoring it. It was so cheap so I'm not sure why I wouldn't have it...

As above total price, if it is something that is branded so you know you are getting the same thing regardless of where you buy it. If it is offered locally then I'm happy to pay a bit more to support a walk in store but depends on how much more.

The slab "pallets/boxes" I use on their sides are not as big a standard pallet and made from hardwood, very similar to these.

Ask your solicitor. There have been similar agreements on both our previous properties (in our case for buried high voltage cable) and it took a while for them to surface. Including one that gave the electricity board the right to knock down an extension on one house as they had built it in an area that was affected by an exclusion zone around a buried cable. Worth checking these things...

I (a DIY type) do something similar. Around this time of year I will empty the logs from my outside racks where they have been drying for a few months and transfer them to the garage. It is not heated but is pretty well sealed plus I keep a de-humidifier running in there to keep the cars dry (fun car in storage over winter). Single stack them against the walls with brick returns keeping the stacks in place, nothing clever needed as these are already dry (unless I have messed up!). Approx 0.7m^3 per stack and I get about 5 stacks in there, plus the outside racks will get re-filled. Garage smells lovely and dehumidifier is certainly not having any issues keeping the place dry enough to prevent condensation, which is my aim. Outside I have made log racks from various things. Simplest are "box" like pallets used for paving slabs turned on their side, stacked and some planks thrown on the top for a roof. Also made one from 3 pallets, 2 planks and 4 nails + a roof from some old material. N.B. all planks are from broken up pallets. Then also have a posher rack made from old fence posts with rotten end cut off for main structure plus load of planks from broken up pallets for sides, back and roof (+ wood treatment to stop it rotting). Nothing complex but the wife prefers the "posh" option! Looks nicer than old pallets but doesn't dry logs any better.

Mine was install of hearth, surround and burner in a new build fireplace. I had no major issues but the connection from the burner flue to the chimney isn't great. The average person might quite happily accept it as it is functional but I'm picky and it bugs me. However, as I have a lot of jobs to do and it functions, flue gases get drawn up the chimney, (albeit with some air from the room as well) it won't get changed for a while...

Pay more attention to how the fitters were attaching the burner to the chimney. It is bit of a bodge up with lots of fire cement to fill the gaps, some of which is now falling out. Something to tidy up when I get a chance but it is out of sight out of mind... I knew from previously installing too large a gas fire in a previous house not to oversize the fire, got a Clearview Pioneer and very happy with it.

I generally don't need to chop kindling as I get most of mine by not throwing away the larger prunings from the garden, mostly from my laurel hedges, and collecting the little odds and sods from chopping. Probably not time efficient but prefer not to waste it. This year though might be an exception but we will see... Two logs in the bottom, confidential waste paper in the middle and sticks on top. Occasionally I resort to a firelighter but only rarely; they are very effective though. Now use a little gas lighter to start it though as I found matches to be pretty hit an miss.

I can't help thinking that in the space you have there is a lot of height that is unused. Maybe other options than just a bigger barn.

I'm an amateur, I only have 5kW that I use to reduce the gas bills so when it is cold it is lit in the evening when I get home and at the weekends while I'm awake to put logs on it. The wife uses it much less when I'm not there, just for a nice warm lounge TBH whil I'm keener to try to get as much heat out of the wood as I can, although sometimes I have to compromise as the lounge gets stupid hot.

Oil shouldn't do any harm as long as it is a tin wipe over but might smoke a bit on start-up but not sure that is an issue. On the inside it will burn off very quickly. Not convinced WD-40 will do any good though. It evaporates quite rapidly so will leave next to nothing on the surface. I see people use WD-40 for lots of stuff where it will have questionable benefits but it smells nice, cleans quite well and will not do any harm.

240*13=3120W. However, mains can be nearer 220V so 220*13=2860W. I.e. 3kW or thereabouts is max for a domestic plug.

If they were being thrown away by the builders anyway then I don't see how you are making it any worse.

Lots of processor unfriendly ash sounds great for us non-pros with a chainsaw and axe. Hope it doesn't all just go to biomass, due to volume though I bet it does.

If it is significant, should it not show up in the manufacturer's efficiency values?

Very pretty. For general public use (like me!) do you think it is worth adding some links on processing/seasoning your own timber? Maybe also a link to the book "Norwegian Wood" ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Norwegian-Wood-Non-fiction-Book-Year/dp/0857052551 ). I found this to be a very good book to read on the subject (and quite a good read anyway)

It might be worth asking for arb waste rather than cord wood. I process wood for my own fire with chainsaw and axe, I'd estimate about 5 cube of 9" stacked logs last year. OK you can't be fussy about the type of wood you get but it is much cheaper than cord wood. I contacted local tree surgeons and yes some have their own log businesses so don't get any left overs but not all do. Now on my second year of sourcing logs like this and I get more than I need from a single local chap who does a mixture of landscaping and tree surgery. He drops it off if he is passing on the way home from a job. As a result I get a lot of softwood from back gardens and maybe 1 in 5 loads of something better like Cherry or Eucalyptus. For the price I can not argue though.

Oops, typo - meant to say the open fires should not be lumped together with wood burners.

I've not tried it, but if dry I see no reason the willow won't burn. The arb waste I burn at the moment is mostly softwood that the web would tell you is not good firewood but I have no problem at all burning it.

Thought about keeping the bigger sticks as firewood? 40mm is on the small side but oak and beech are nice on the fire.

They certainly should be lumping burners together with open fires as they are currently due to the huge difference in efficiency. Whether they should promote them though I'm not sure. Wood burners require a little skill to operate, gas and electric require little or no skill. If you push them out on the general public you will also not be able to supply enough wood and eventually will have to worry about particulate emissions (at least in large towns/cities).

There are people out there looking for wood to burn domestically, just going to be tricky to find them. The Leylandi is not the best but free is free and you can still heat the house using it. The Laurel is very nice to burn. I burn arb waste provided by a local tree surgeon/landscape gardener and it a right mixture but mostly softwoods. He can drop off more than I can burn (in exchange for a few bottle of wine) so I'm not in need of more but worth asking around locally. Maybe put something in the local classifieds or similar?