Conor Wright

Something like this maybe. Cut after flowering.

So all that yew I've been splitting has been a waste of time?!

Top class.

They often grow to be rather top heavy with the roots slow to respond. Tip pruning after flowering helps keep them in check and stops them outgrowing themselves. Not knowing the shape or spread of the particular plant it's hard to advise but at 18 months planted if you just keep to the side of the stem by half the width of it's original pot you should be ok. Alternatively you could use a single stake at 45 degrees (only really leaves you a low tying point but keeps the base of the stake away from the root mass) or three short stakes at 120 degree intervals in a circle well out from the base of the shrub and use webbing to tie into the stem(s) further up, essentially stabilising it from all angles. They are susceptible to stem rot, if they have made a hole around the base from moving in the ground, make sure to stabilise this and stop water lodging or your staking may well be in vain! Hope that makes sense.

Sounds good, looks like a timeless piece of design. Going on the list for the house. Thanks for sharing!

I like it. Reminds me of a big v8! How did you find it in practical, day to day use?

I see some ripples in the wood.. I've found it can occur if your chain is at 30° rather than set for milling at 10° You will lose a lot of the thickness of the board planing them out! It's well worth spending a little time setting up the mill and getting a very good edge on the chain, it may save you from losing out on good timber. I've done it myself and had the piles of planings to prove it.

Pm me if you're genuinely interested, I may be open to moving it on as I have another project in mind.

How?

I wonder would rsl be worth a call?

More swans. Really struggling in strong headwinds today!

Good indepth review, would be good to know how they stand the test of time. They look like a good boot. Like trigger said, thanks for taking the time to share your experience.

From running a farmi with possibly the longest distance from roller to flywheel of any similar capacity machine out there i cant see much chance of springing back.. if it fits through in the first place it will remain compressed til chipped.. theres nowhere for it to go. Stubs on the other hand may cause the rollers to bounce, but there shouldn't be any stubs worth talking about if snedded properly. I saw wear around the keyway on the shaft of the top motor (had it off for a seal change) and would imagine this is from years of back and forth movement. Surely design should dictate either hydraulic blow off or key shear before breaking the shaft. I would argue that hopping up and over stubs is more harmful over time than the odd jammed fork.

A shot in a herbal tea is nice! Especially when it's infused with elderflower. Have some with hawthorn too. Wouldn't be going for the bottle. That's when things go wrong! It's rough stuff on its own! decided on a bottle of beer in the end, the fridge was closer to me. Complete derail, but I'd like to make mead from our own honey sometime.

Two years back I had the pleasure of clearing trees downwind of the main crusher. During a few dry, breezy days of course! The dust and grit was almost unbearable. I was averaging 3 cuts per sharpen due to the embedded dust and grit in the trees. Power has gone here now too! That means no shed tonight.. so its either poitin, wine or beer.. life is full of hard decisions.

Thank you. Its too late now as i have committed to this job, the ram is gone for boring, but I will keep that book in mind for future reference.. mog tierods etc. Appreciate the help, cheers!

I got it in the door of the shed, strapped up the front and lifted it with the digger, then rolled it in. Wasn't staying out on the ground in that weather! Spent a few hours out in the late morning and afternoon. Winched a lanky multistem ash over and ringed it up. Said enough was enough and came back to the shed. It's as windy here as I have ever felt it. At least the rain has stopped now that I've come inside. A mate of mine is a fitter in a quarry. He spent three hours lying on the underside of a belt this morning, fitting roller bearings. I honestly do not know how he sticks at it. The silt and rain mixed is horrible stuff.

So.. changing a tie rod has become a larger than anticipated job, couldn't get the inner joint to unscrew from the power steering ram and there's only so much heat you can apply to a ram! It's out with the power steering which means dropping the front axle, and off to be cut and rebored. The unavailability of a replacement tie rod is the main cause of hardship, apparently they were snapping too regularly and kukje decided to stop production and only supply the beefed up ones, which come as a single unit.

Two travellers, Mickey mcDonnagh and Willie Ward are up in front of the judge for causing a brawl at a wedding. Judge: Mr mcdonnagh, can you please tell the court how this outrageous brawl began? Mickey: yes sur ah can. Willie wur marryin me cussin Mary an cos she me cussin I offered her a dance after d weddin an we wur dancin away an next thing Willie come flyin over an hit her a box in the fanny. Sur. Judge: good grief, he boxed her in the fanny? That must have been terribly painful. Mickey: oh it was sur, turrible painful. He broke three of my fingers.

I bought the one in the picture, then didn't get the job I had planned for it! It's used for loading logs onto the processor and occasionally retrimming brashy logs, have never used it on a larger scale job but it has serious power when it comes to pulling through timber. They are a simple machine so even an untrained eye should spot defects ie cracks, poor welds bent rams.. It's 100% mechanical so no 'puters to go wrong. You will need (going by my machine, others may differ) one pair of spools for the stabiliser legs, pto for the crane pump and another pair of spools to run the delimber. I personally wouldn't consider adapting it to a 360, it could get messy and it's a bit bulky to hang imo. Another option to consider may be to use the 360 and shear to fell the trees, make a stack sufficient to fill a trailer and bring in the processor, then clean and load the timber in one go and move on to the next stack. No physical labour. No expensive of complex machinery adaptations (except guarding, for your own safety. Strongly reccomended) Patu is the make of the one pictured, now kesla to my knowledge. Kelfri make one too but it may not be so strong. I am far from an expert here, lgp Eddie has more experience in using such machines.

The defender I had previously had a pto winch. The pump was mounted just behind the cab (lwb 110) and connected to the gearbox, I believe engaging 4th gear and engaging the lever in the cab turned on the pump. For a crane you could probably mount a small tank beside it, for a log splitter you may need an oil cooler or larger tank.. I do not know what make the pump was, I spent all my time fixing other things on it and never got around to refitting a winch. I would not buy another!

Tea tree oil too, I believe

Have the parts, dealer is only a few km over the road and he dropped them to me! Thats service! Should be up and running again tonight 352 turbo, not sure if it's a conversion though.. will pm you the numbers! Thanks!

For 60 ton a year shear and saw seems more appropriate. Forestry kit is very expensive and unless you are a mechanical genius, very complicated too.. maybe a big old stroke head on a tractor or converted to work on the digger.. far simpler than a roller head and will strip off larger branches too. People will tell you they are slow but they will make short work of 60 ton without huge outlay.

Should I go left? should I go right? Should I try to do both? Dealer replacement includes upgraded ball joints. It seems to be a common failure. Pity it failed in the middle of the laneway back to the house, leaving both car and jeep stranded, upside is herself gets to drive the mog to yoga later.