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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. I have to take HC back but I'll throw gleditsia into the mix as well. Bark looks bit like robinia?
  2. I think exhaust mod is the first thing really, so if you're not up for that then not much to do except keep it clean, keep air filter clean, and keep the chain razor sharp. Not sure what gains from porting, usual thing seems to be exhaust mod and slight ignition advance.
  3. Look a bit like alternating buds to me though? Which would count ash and hc out, hc being my guess with those curving ends to the branches.
  4. I think it's possible the remaining one would survive, the only disadvantage I can think is that the dead trunk would probably originally feed the roots on that side, so the root plate is compromised. If it's dying from something fungal though then most likely it's already spread throughout. Thing is, cutting one stem down won't cost all that much less than cutting two, so if you go down that route you effectively pay twice should the second stem need coming down. If you wait a bit then the final decision is really final. Like Mick says though, it's probably toast. I'm just working on the basis that you really don't want to cut it down or you'd have done that already , so give it every chance possible.
  5. I'd just wait another year. Larch is a durable wood so the dead won't fall to bits quickly like birch, if we have another hot dry summer will possibly finish it off but maybe it will be kinder. The areas which are dead will stay dead, but if the living parts come back stronger then you would eventually be able to just remove all deadwood and keep the tree. Otherwise it's back to plan a.
  6. We recently did EFAW + F which was 2 days, in reality 1.5 days plus a test session on second afternoon that was short. I was told by someone else there is also a FAW + F that is a 3 day and includes some more stuff like burns and minor injuries (so not just emergency response).
  7. Could dig the trench and pollard them, or even fell and leave stumps, in 10 years you'd have a pair of multistem trees nearly that big which have sorted themselves out a new root system. They are willows not ancient oaks, unlikely to be all that old anyway.
  8. Only had it since June, so we just used it raw wood then put it in shed. Think maybe oil when we get it out again.
  9. I've got a robinia table for the patio, think it's becoming more and more common for outdoor furniture. None of the wood is big, table top is small slats.
  10. I've worked this out carefully now, next one down from 7/32 should be 13/64 though? I'll call it 5.2 otherwise my brain hurts.
  11. Yew is famously slow growing, except when it's not. Had one bushy monster in a garden and the spec was flat top it back to gutter height, that needed the bar length of my 201 to do the stem. Growth rings 5mm or so like your one there.
  12. Yeah and weirdly I can think about bars in metric and imperial, happy that an .063 or 1.6 are the same - but have no idea what the file sizes are in imperial. Can only do files in metric.
  13. 5.5 is recommended by Oregon and Husqvarna for 3/8 chain. I just use the 5.2 for everything as started with Stihl and got a few boxes.
  14. I believe planning conditions are mainly intended to protect the trees from the builders during the development, but a planning condition continues to exist until it is "discharged". One of the options on planning portal is applying to discharge a condition, seems like another way for them to take a few quid off you but I think that would finish the protection. Be great to hear from someone more knowledgeable if there is a default time of expiry in the case that it's not stipulated in the condition.
  15. Fell off the table you were dancing on?
  16. That's going to be the biggest inverter I've ever seen!
  17. He pulled a fast one there didn't he! Bet he was hoping to quietly "mistakenly" take it home.
  18. That's really interesting, great to see it documented like that. I've a customer who has just had a wall built quite close to a tree, it's flood defence so I can see why they've gone ahead even though I pointed out the risk to roots. Think I will take a photo this summer as a baseline.
  19. It depends also what you mean by get started, CS100, small trailer, pickup, harness, topper, hedge trimmer and off you go. Not as efficient for larger jobs but plenty you can get on with and earn some money, upgrade gear as you go.
  20. I agree, unlikely to pull out an app to see what chainsaw cut to use. Looks to me like you need to decide what size firm you are trying to cater for, one man band or bigger firm with multiple teams, vehicles, chippers etc. Feels like if you make it too capable then will just be too complicated to use for smaller guy. Dealing with job enquiries, scheduling and completing seems the important task to me. Then manage all the job paperwork, risk assessment, permission, etc.
  21. My limited experience of flue thermometer (my one) it's rubbish - there is nothing wrong with my wood, the ash is all melted down below the fire and nice blue orange flames so everything nice and hot and clean burning - yet the thermometer tells me it's too cold. That fire looks fine to me, there's plenty of heat energy in the firebox.
  22. My tipper trailer has a battery charger plugged in to the battery in the toolbox so all I have to do is carry the mains lead over. I have thought about solar but where would you put the panel that it's not going to be in the way or else stood on? From what I could see was either really cheap and nasty or else hundreds of pounds as well, so put me off looking more.
  23. Like difflock says energy in = energy out. If the heat is coming out of the sides of the firebox but not being taken away from the gap by convection of air then the firebox will get even hotter. Doesn't sound to me like the recess is really the problem. On my stove the thin flue pipe gets hot within minutes but to properly get the whole thing warmed is probably an hour or two and it's not a nice cast one like yours. My money is either time, or as peasgood says above if it's had too thick bricks retrofitted then these will be reducing the heat flow. It's an awful lot cheaper to change the bricks than the whole stove so I'd definitely do that before selling it.
  24. Was it spot on correct grade oil that you topped it up with though? Could be too thin at high temp but ok at low temp. Oil and filter change sounds like a good place to start in any case.
  25. That there is why it's a game of 3 halves.

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