Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Yes, fair enough I've used them on light hedge trims ok. Conifer hedge is a bit sharp though and I put a new one down over gravel to catch sawdust on a small leylandii removal and it got full of holes from branches landing on it.
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The 3/8" distance along the straight bar is the same, but because there is less material between the rivet and the bottom of the link the way they sit on the sprocket as it goes round the corner is different. If you read around the internet people's opinions seem to differ on how it will run but I wouldn't do it myself, you really need LP drive rim and bar sprocket to have proper running with LP chain.
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If you have a pair of verniers may be able to source the springs. Looped Ends | Associated Spring Raymond WWW.ASSOCSPRING.CO.UK I guess if you get a pair it's not too critical, slightly more tension will increase the RPM it engages but you'll always grind flat out.
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Also it saves having to wind the window down every time you get in.
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Bought some Toolstation ones. Only good thing is they pack up small so easy to throw away when full of holes after two jobs.
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Probably built two just in case.
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Bent Autumn Blaze Maple Tree
Dan Maynard replied to BrandX's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Joys of a Landrover? -
The who can get most outraged at bad treework thread.
Dan Maynard replied to Mick Dempsey's topic in Picture Forum
Stopped it dropping leaves on the conservatory though. Perfect. -
I think you'll find it well worth the £156 for a diamond wheel too. Go on, you're worth it.
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I've also balanced a shed on a pallet truck, running on scaffold boards. You'd need one under each end for that I reckon.
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When did they stop making 125? Maybe the answer is to look for a 160 to get newer?
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I did one on Tuesday this week. Everything to be carried out through the newly decorated house so I was very happy when they said they'd clear all the brash. He'll manage it too, builder by trade.
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Unless it's wet? Is this in the rain?
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I would say change one thing at a time and make big changes - so that you get maximum chance to see the effect. If it's bar oil should be clear on changing to something like Stihl synthplus. Should be possible to run a bigger sprocket on short bar, I am running an 8 pin sprocket on ported 372 with 18" bar, it's gone through a couple of chains so far and I think the bar wear is heavier than I'm used to on Stihl bars - but that's a Husqvarna bar which are apparently like chocolate anyway. My theory would be your bar temperature is higher than most users because of the non-stop cutting, and the veg oil is broken down by this. Realistically I probably rarely cut for more than half an hour constantly - if I'm ringing a stem it'll all be done.
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Ah he started talking about a tree that needed felling but no clear path so it would inevitably get hung up. The answer to this is not to fell it but spike up and dismantle, no point creating a tricky situation. Agreed you wouldn't want to be spiking anything hung up. As chance would have it I've got a small dead elm which has fallen into a HC next week, current plan pulley in the HC and tip tie the elm then sections off the base.
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For grinders I found these: Tracker S7 Retrieve | Trackershop UK WWW.TRACKERSHOP-UK.COM Being battery there are no wires to trace and being VHF still detectable in a shipping container as Paddy says above. Buy 5 years subscription not too bad costwise either. Didn't buy another grinder though, have gone down the hire route and outsourced the whole problem.
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I'm thinking put the pull line on the upper trunk? Would that not work?
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Ah but there is a way, just spike up and dismantle it. Cutting so you have a vertical hung up tree with no control is a bad strategy in the first place, at least get some lines in before it's cut so you can control the situation from a distance.
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Witterings, what I think you should do is take the plunge and invest in CS30/31 training (whatever it's called now) - cross cut and fell. You're obviously using the saw a fair bit, it will make you safer, and you'll enjoy it more than a week's holiday.
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Yeah that's the point, stump grinding is cheaper than piling. My point as Khriss said above might as well pile it anyway. Otherwise in a few years the other neighbours might plant a silver birch and there'll be a thread about subsidence or heave and distance to the property if it's removed.
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Mine is 90cm but 10mm cord on 12.6rope and I'm heavy so have an extra wrap in the VT. I reckon that's about the longest combination you could ever need so somewhere in 70-80 is probably good for VT. I usually look at the price of premade ones and buy 15m of cord to tie my own, also means adjust the length as needed then tape it off and stop when it's working well.
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You ideally need a wider cut than a saw bench to let enough air in, to make it easy to light. Chainsaw happens to be wide enough, found 3/8 worked a bit better than .325 in the first ones I made. He will also disappear under a pile of noodles so you need to allow time for getting rid of waste every few.
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Good job. Keep us posted on how it gets on too.
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Could you help identify this tree?
Dan Maynard replied to Edksakd's topic in Tree Identification pictures
You can call it leylandii, as long as you sound authoritative and cut it down quick. Works for me every time. -
Fair enough if you have tried it, I was just thinking that 36" is top of normal bar range for a 660.
