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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. This time next year, Rodney, this time next year.
  2. Melted the ends in and everything....
  3. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast..... I've got route planning up my sleeve too, but I'm the wrong side of 50 to ever be fast
  4. I'm with you on the petzl eject, no amount of convincing will get me over the name.
  5. That doesn't absolutely have to be the case, if you do them properly twice a year every year they end up like carpet. Missing trims is the problem, then you can't wind back like you say.
  6. I know what you mean, but you stop looking at it after a while just like all the other bits that will kill you if they fail. It helps that it's steel, feels much more solid in the hand than the other aluminium gear.
  7. I got a camp gyro swivel too, suddenly makes 2 rope a lot more workable. I don't like the extra bits flopping about when advancing branches up the tree, so generally biner the RR on to bridge ring, then once I've set TIP I put ropes on to the swivel to work back down. I don't want to say it too loud but I quite like having 2 ropes sometimes, can just wander about chopping without lanyard in and out. If it's not helping I just drop the second one anyway. One of my ropes is VT on hitchclimber and I haven't really noticed that twisting. I wonder if the DMM swivel has bearings, the gyro is just stainless ball on the end of each arm so little bit of friction maybe enough to stop it spinning unwanted?
  8. ... or just leave them be, plenty of space so no need to keep them small, remove deadwood as it's naturally shaded out. If you cut them hard, they sprout hard and then you are managing sprouts for the next 6 years.
  9. I believe if the tree dies naturally you still have a duty to replant, so I'd definitely check with the council. We have had this discussion before, is cutting up a fallen tree works to a TPO tree or not? It's not dead yet, probably still carry on growing but the amenity value is clearly affected. In practical terms it needs moving off the driveway obviously.
  10. Yes viton is what we used to put in pharmaceutical jobs as better chemical resistance, or silicone rubber. Also in that case to do with alcohol resistance and subsequent not leaching chemicals back out.
  11. I guess as you move it back towards where it started you're getting more roots back in the ground. I reckon there's a happy medium which involves a stout length of oak trunk to hold it up, that would also stop it blowing back down.
  12. https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p80406/1mm-Section-3mm-Bore-NITRILE-70-Shore-Rubber-O-Rings/product_info.html These would be a standard, you might want to investigate materials for ethanol fuel, or might find a softer shore in something like silicone rubber. Bit of trial and error.
  13. It's a while but I used to do some mechanical design. Measuring the groove rather than the Oring is wise, there's a standard to fit bores and another for shafts. You should need a 5mm diameter, 1mm thick ring. This will compress slightly between the 3.2 and 5 (groove depth 0.9) but not fill the groove sideways.
  14. Business as in not for your own personal use. If you're not vat registered business you're supposed to pay the vat and enjoy it.
  15. Does it have a fancy end at the carb? I replaced cables on my JoBeau chipper for the drive control but these are just clamped, so I was able to buy tandem bike brake cables from a cycle shop. I would think the throttle cable is an engine accessory so might have more luck if you work out what the engine is and look for videos for that.
  16. Maybe one other thing, there is an ISA qualification route (International Society of Arboriculture), seems to be a good grounding for working in tree surgery but not thought of as so academic, so not usually leading on towards surveying if that's really what you want to do.
  17. Surveyors that I have had documents from seem to tend to have Tech Cert (ArborA) which is seems to be described as Level 4. I'm not really aware of anything except level 2, 4, 6 :- 2 is ground knowledge, 4 detailed, 6 degree level. You will probably know a lot of what's in 2 already. There are a couple of places which do level 2 as correspondence course, it is time consuming and can be difficult to self motivate and maintain progress (didn't get far in mine). Otherwise you can do local college course if you can find one, or go to specialist trainers like Tree Life. Tree Life | Training and Consultancy Services | Leicestershire | Online courses WWW.TREELIFEAC.CO.UK Tree Life focuses on providing specialist training for those candidates who are studying towards attaining SEG qualifications in Arboriculture at Certificate and Diploma levels...
  18. The front bar with handle in the stein arb trolley is only in on a pin, so you can swap it out for a drawbar with hitch. Don't know if the one at work was an option or bought elsewhere, but it's only a bit of box section with hitch so not difficult to arrange either way.
  19. @billpierce @MattyF thank you for these, I'm quite sold on the idea but started off down the rabbit hole of splicing as most people seem to sell just the block - looks like I can get it with ultra sling spliced on from Honeys though so seems like the way to go.
  20. Thing with an arb trolley, you can put a lot of weight on but then it's a lot of work to pull. I've done some jobs where we pulled the trolley round with a quad bike, absolutely brilliant and moved a lot of wood like that. I haven't bought one myself, I think £2k spent on a muck truck is better investment. If you have the business use, mini loader is the way to go.
  21. Cherry also warps and splits like a bstard as it dries. I'm still backing cherry.
  22. The place near me used to rent out a 360 and 460, and they kept the teeth pretty sharp. I'd take the 460 every time I could even though a few quid more to hire, the extra weight of machine and extra power means it takes a lot less effort to grind, and the self drive is brilliant on slopes, or on and off the trailer. It is a fair bit longer than the 360 though so access can be a problem. I always say the only reason a bigger grinder is not better is if it won't fit in the garden to get to the stump. Sadly they stopped hiring it out and just had the 360 so I bought my own cheap one I can put sharp teeth on.
  23. I'm intrigued by these, or thinking a pair of rings on ultra sling as looking for something bigger than 10mm in rigging wrench setup. What size rope do you use the block with, and does it normally go through once or through both and then you need to keep changing over? Seems like having to go up and pull the rope back through would be a bit of a faff but maybe you never really do?

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