Dan Maynard

Willow's usually nice easy chipping, too. Not like you fed it yew or something with a bit of bite.

Looks like you could unscrew the nipple from the top of that and put it back in. Get the old bit out first with a file tang/old screwdriver/stud extractor/torx bit/whatever is lying around, obviously. I didn't know these tubes were a thing, guess the one on mine was long gone before the machine got to me.

My narrow gauge bars are only up to 10" long so not been fragile particularly, more likely a problem as they get longer I guess. Sharpening is fine and not really depending on gauge, that's more a problem with the smaller 1/4 pitch. Only other thing to keep an eye on is that both 3/8 and 3/8 LP exist (low profile). It's most likely that both 1.1 and 1.3 chains you have are actually 3/8LP as on smaller saws, and if you stick with manufacturer parts it'll be fine. If you start buying chain on eBay for example it's possible to be caught out though, as you can buy 3/8 chain in 1.3 (0.050) . More popular in the US though, the vast majority of 3/8 1.3 in Europe is going to be LP. Each manufacturer has their own way of describing, so Oregon LP is type 90 or 91, Stihl is Picco etc.

You're correct, yes. Drive sprockets only have pitch, so same one for different gauge chains. Bar and chain match pitch and gauge. Not recommended to swap new chains onto old sprockets though, keep an eye on that. They wear together as a pair, so if you put a new chain on an old sprocket it will not make proper contact on the wear points and can mangle the chain, that's whether it's same gauge or not.

The Stihl cuts well, I also use Panther chain from chainsawbars.co.uk - if you get the unguarded then no bumper links to make filing the depth gauge difficult. Not tried Oregon, didn't know they did 1/4.

I renewed with Trust so they still have my CS38 cert, no further questions. Looking at HSE news roofers keep falling off roofs, but there was a tree bloke recently who fell trying to get down from a stuck mewp so falls from height are a hot topic.

Had to check it out on Honeys, must be good if it's a game changer... "The Samson Zing-It 1.75mm Throwline is a game-changer for professional arborists, ..." but then it goes on "easy to handle and maneuver, reducing fatigue during long hours of use. " Something definitely wrong if you're at the throwline for hours, get a ladder instead. It's out of stock anyway so I'll have to make do with something else.

I was thinking he could swap flywheel, starter, cover, the whole shooting match and convert back to normal C type of saw.

Think @Mick Dempsey 's tip to use a 4mm file, works ok at the start and much easier than the recommended 3.2 which is really bendy.

Seems like there would have been so many scrapped 261 for crankshaft around a few years ago, maybe there's still one under a bench somewhere you could swap all the bits? My 261 still running so you can't have my starter yet.

I see you're also asking about work having done CS30/31. Get either a Husqvarna 550 or Stihl 261 depending on which dealer is near you and you get on with. My advice would be don't buy secondhand, and don't buy online, you need somewhere you can walk in and ask for help. That'll probably cost a little over £600, don't buy something cheaper as you'll end up wishing you hadn't wasted that money. But if you get work as a groundie you shouldn't immediately need a saw, I'd start with boots, chainsaw trousers and helmet first.

Two Faltheimer cubes. You definitely need at least 2 line and 3 or 4 bags for when the bastard things get stuck.

You haven't mentioned piston and cylinder condition, easy to check and if fubar then no point buying a carb.

Yep. Think it was in Berry's Book of Cunning Contraptions along with Go karts and candle powered boats.

That's good to know. Maybe I'll wait for next year's black Friday deal on a vertec then.