drinksloe

I assume it is the same for private/domestic tree owners as commercial/forestry owners but strictly speaking IF it is PR its a notifiable plant disease and u will be made to cut it down or face fines. Where i am in sw scotland, further west is riddled with PR and an FC helicopter flies over the area about this time of year spotting infected looking trees ( dying crown) then send someone out to inspect them on the ground. If confirmed as PR they 6 months ( i think ) to fell every larch tree in a 200m radius, after that they get an extension then fined.. So not really much options for trying to save the tree if PR ( PR is spread throu pores from the tree so it will be releasing more each year) Do u or ur neighbours have any rhodedendrums? they can harbour PR without really being effected just black spots on the leaves, if FC se that they will make u cut back the rhodies. U really need to identify if PR ( in my area it is so rife now u just assume it is now without looking too much for any signs, just about forgot wot they are now, hence check websites for proper signs). but as spud says generally black seepage or blisters

Depending where u are but in many places phytophora is rife in a lot of commercial larch.thousands of acres are being cut to try and stop the disease in some cases often just cut to waste have a google PR in larch and see if it has any symptoms, but poor crown growth does indicate somethings not right with it

Aye but at the start was he not driving there 1st thing in morning with lights on? Cause he said it took him 45 mins or something. Just that type of set up u would need to have all ur jobs lined up 1 after the other to keep the machine chapping on, would take a bit of work finding enough work for it. Althou i could see roadside ADB being ideal for that and 360's/rubber ducks with shears on. Is there any H&S or RA issues with chain shot using grapple saws? Do the saws/chains travel the same speed as harvester saws? I just know with harvesters they don't like u anywhere near

To many on here thinking they no better than other people if you honestly think felling a dead ash tree in a urban environment wear everything has to be cleaned up is quicker than using a merlo u obviously spend to much time In the woods ! To be fair thats my problem too much time in woods and not in gardens, i forget about the clean up. Not often i do garden jobs, infact tend to avoid them like plague To be fair u wouldnae be long getting the tree on the deck, but aye depending how far gone could be debris every where Just the money and man power involved for a single tree like that. I would love to know how it does stack up against 2 men & cherry picker, even if it took them all day compared to 1hr could still be more profit in the job unless machine got a load of other jobs lined up

Definately some impressive kit. It does fairly take up the room thou, they have fairly utilised that street and be a bit of tidying up after but nothing a rake and blower won't sort But that tree could u not just about straight fell each leg, 1 or 2 might need a rope or even a tirfor on them and still use the avant and big chipper?? or straight fell most and a cherry picker for the worst leaners if unsafe to climb I doubt it would be that much slower still easy on ur men but saving the big expense of the 360. Be intresting to know how much it cost to take that tree down, esp being 1 isolated tree ( different if doing rows of them) Wot is the score in the UK with thse grapples saws and chain shot? In forestry u'd never get the Rams WRITTEN UP THAT U COULD HAVE WORKERS SO CLOSE in case a chain snaps

I know a lot will be in experienced buyers eye and they will just get a feel from previous jobs.. But wot is the planting distance 2m, 3m? To get a broad ball park figure if u know the acreage and tree spacings u will know how many trees ( 2m is roughly 2500 to a hectare) then if u can guestimate ur likely weight of produce of an average tree, u should be there or there abouts. I know some forestry companies estates will mark of small areas/plots scattered around a wood and measure 5,10.... trees in detail to try and get a decent estimate for an average to them work out T's

Not entirely relevant to this thread but follows on from the last post. But i mind almost 30yrs ago when i used to do pipe line fencing, generally u'd start at 1 end and fence ur way to other but most pipleines would make u jump to any rivers or major roads where they were directionally drilling the pipe under the obstice and fence a big work site for them. 1 day the QS bloke was telling us they get prices in for the boring very early and start them way way before the rest of pipeline and generally go with the cheapest quote fully expecting them not to be able to do the job, so if they fail they have plenty of time to get the next contractor in. if they do get job done there quids in, if not its no big drama thou either. I think it was 1 of the later crossings they said there was 3 sets off drills stuck below the river ( not sure if all the same contractors or 3 different companies) Like others have said u just need to stick to ur guns, if ur busy enough ur not doing much wrong

Must admit my dad offered me his dacia duster, its a cracking wee motor and 4x4. He does alot of miles owing a quad with it, think this is his 2nd or 3rd now, cheapish to run and fairly good on fuel. Would of been a real good buy for me but just the rear windows put me off Before them we ( dad and brother) ran jimny's for years, god knows how many we'll have had, but for years and years u could buy a pre registered jimny for under 7k, my last 1 was a new 54 plate. A few years after that they jumped up massively in price

Ur definately right when u stop off for some shopping on hte way hame, but i'm not entirely sure exactly how safe it is up woods either. All sorts of folk snooping about forest tracks, some jobs i can barely find my way back to the tarmac yet the thieving desiel fairies seem to smell the jos out almost as soon as they start. How the hell they find them i'll never know. This is possibly harsh and unfair but on large forest areas i never entirely trust the wagon drivers, not that i've ever had aything nicked out my van. But very easyfor them or anyone else to stop for literally 1 min tan a window and go off with a handful of saws, be no witnesses and very umlikely to be spotted. But the mulcher driver did nick 2 cracking set of long chains i had at my own bit, bloody seen him loading up too when out with dogs never thought to check my chains were still there, possibly my own fault for leaving them ontop of some windblow i was dragging till the following wknd

Does the 5 year thing exist in arb? I thought it was just a fisa/forestry site thing

Doing well to get 4 men in a jimny never mind any gear. When i ran a jimny i usually took the back seet out to get some room, but savage on petrol, tiny tanks, only got about 200 odd miles to a tank The only problem i have with cars is anyone can see wot tackle u have in the back if ur away all day and it is left at the roadside. Usually my spare saws are worth far more than my van, most days i'll have 5 or 6 saws in my van. If u go a car route i'd weld up a metal cage for ur gear in the back. Back in the day a lot of old wood cutters ran clapped out old bangers. Even driving at sensible speeds big miles on forest roads ****************s motors even newer motors, sometimes ur as well with older stuff and just keep it 2 or 3 years instead of keeping a newer van longer I've got both a wee kangoo van ( but had combi's and berlingo's in past) and a pick up which i use for my dogs and work if i need to tow a trailer. The pick up rarely moves, esp now with the price of fuel, my wee van used to be 50 quid to fill now 90, dread to think wot the pick up is now must be 150+. On comeercial forest sites its pretty rare that a pick up will get u any closer to ur work site/trees, usually ground so ruff/rutted 4x4 would make no difference. Can be different on estate woodland work where u might be able to drive down a field or along a muddy track that is not designed for hgv's. Most forset tracks are pretty good now and it is generally quite rare for the forwarders to travel on the roads now, they were murder in the past thou, but if they do u just have to drive sensibily and ave a decent set of off road or winter tyres on ur van. A wee van with winter tyres can go some queer places, sometimes almost as far as a big heavy 4x4 with slick road tyres on

Alright folks I'm hoping this is a simple question/answer . Basically renovating a house now getting to the final stages and installing the wood burner and potentially hit a few snags and i think the builder might have dropped a clanger. I've had a look throu this site and the J regs and still not managed to figure out the safe distances and exactly wot is classed as a combustable material. The log burner is a clearview 650, no (back boiler) so a 7" flue Reading the manual and online the way i'm understanding it the stove can be 225mm from the wall but the flue needs to be 525mm. I'm not wanting anything special or unusual it was meant to be centered against the flat external gable wall and 2 lengths of single skin flue before twin wall up throu cieling ( its a 3.6m ceiling) and out throu roof, the wall is just ur normal stud partion with insulation but no fire board or anything special. So i'd say just a bog standard classic stove install. At the time i did expect the centre plasterboard sheet to be fireboard. The builders have put the hearth in for a 225 clearance but the problem will be the flue is too close to the wall, i was hoping to over come that by putting some fire board up the wall or tiling it but have been told that is no longer up to modern regs. And for wall to be classed as incombustable it needs to be 100mm thick of incombustable material ( ie block or facing brick) as with just a tile the heat can transfer throu the tile, which i get. But been told quite a few different things, just got of phone with architect and he doesn't even think ur allowed single skin flues anymore incase someone falls against it and burns themselves, but does admit he's not sure. Which dosn't seem right to me but i admit no expert ( only put stoves in cavans/outbuildings up till now and always err'd well on the side of caution with fire proof materials) At moment not managed to catch up with the stove supplier Looking throu the J regs and it mentions if a stove can heat the hearth up to more than 100c and i don't even know if mine does or not so now even more confused than ever. Cheers for any advice. We have came up with a few ideas since the problem arose but just not exactly sure the specs and regs we have to work too

I know the local rural estate done that with most of its large roadside trees. It would be so the forester could show a visual record of trees being checked and defects recorded. This would be in the days everything done on paper, and before all the modern day devices for gps'ing a tree. Be a bit of a box ticking/insurance claim thing if that tree ever came down he would have a paper trail to show it had been checked

I've started using them as sumps in drains/culverts and concrete them in. Used some more as 'shuttering' on a big clay tile that occasionally blocks so made some heath robinson man holes with them.so i dont have to dig down to the tile if it ever blocks again ( flows from my neighbours garden so if they don't clear leaves it can block easy) Also cut holes in the ends/tops and place over trailer hitches to keep rain off drawbar. Never thought about using them as tool storage. 😀 Wots the best/easiest way to wash the oil out of them?

I imagine another slight problem esp if u cater more for the home owner/hobby/farmer type chains. I may be wrong but the amount of times i've seen a farmers saw with the chain hanging loose on the bar and completely mullered and still be trying to cut with it.so cutters will be well heat up too. Never different to getting arb/forestry chains in that are just a touch dull. They could be an absolute nightmare to even attempt to sharpen and u will be taking so much off the cutters the rakers will need a good going over too I must admit i've never looked into these fancy auto sharpeners but with harvester chains u have no rakers to worry about so machine is doing the lot.

Do climbers not just have a quick sharpen at lunch time or break times? If i can i tend to finish piece time couple of mins early and give saw a rub if it needs done and just as i fill up last fill for day. Althou only if thy need done i'm not 1 for a rub every fill like u hear some folk do.

I see the lad doing harvester chains is charging £3.90 a chain to check and sharpen, and most of them will be 60-70cm bars, but that is with 3 automatic sharpeners going and he has vans covering the whole of scotland and N eng. Not a lot of money in it at that, but if ur doing them quick enough. But the difference with harvesters or firewood processors is u already take the chain of to sharpen it anyway to save on downtime throu day, so not as big an issue having heaps of spare chains

If ur going to do it the market may exist for harvester chains and many timber harvesting companies do send there chains away to be sharpened a box load at a time (30-50 chains). But there all using automatic chain sharpeners But already a few boys at it and a few have a good rep and are pretty busy, it might depend where ur based if any big harvesting companies local to u Also firewood processors might use chain for cutting logs Ur problem with arb or even forestry cutters is u would need a load of spare chains so if u blunt 1 u take it off and swap it, in most cases ur almost as quick just sharpening it on the saw as and when. Plus those grinders don't take the rakers down. I mind 20 odd years ago a saw place on the south coast was wanting 8 quid for sharpening chains which at that time weren't a lot more

Just thinking wot type of drive are log bullets? Are they cage driven? I dunno how a whole tyre chain would work on a cage driven wheel? I would be looking at using wot u already have. Is it a big job putting them on the smaller machines? I know with full sized forwarders if on forestry tyres rather than agris are absolutely useless without tracks on, amazing how easily they get stuck when off a brash matt

Can u not just use the machine with the band tracks on it then? Or put/swap the tracks over? I imagine it will be getting them tight might be the problem. I take it no quad or UTV/small tractor tyre chains would fit? Althou i would imagine any quad chains will be designed for snow and might not be hard enough wearing for full time use in forestry Thats wot they were designed for but they do make a mess if ur leading throu any fields or loanings, if steep ground big grousers are ur friends but they do make a mess if turning on turf

Aye i was meaning the vertical bore hole type as it will never be topped up from solar energy like the shallow loops will. But i am sure like a lot of these things a lot were installed badly in the past without full knowledge of wot they were doing. Really this country is so far behind the times with modern heating ideas and even when we get the idea usually implement/install it very badly not looking at how other countries have done it for decades. In NZ been installing heat pumps for 30 odd years now. Is it possible to just extend the pipe run/loop after its fitted? I imagine u could just cut it and join another run of loops on?

Following on from Big J's post. I looked into various heat pumps and RHI a few years back when i started renovating an old house. Similar to wot J was saying with the domestic RHI tarriff back then ( it may be different now) they gave u an annual grant for ur house depending on size and insulation no matter wot u actually spent/used. The broad estimates were around 250kw/m2/yr for an old farm house, about 50 kw/m2/yr and as little as 5 kw/m2/yr for a passiv/eco type house. Thats a massive difference. I have been told that 1 of the potential draw backs with a bore hole type ground source is that in theory in some places over time ur ground source could actually draw too much heat out of the ground immediately round the bore hole as after 10m won't be getting topped up every summer like a looped system would. Also the pumps do draw some juice when they have to start pumping

Is there anything u can do to prevent the water in tanks?? Esp when filling from a jerry can. As i said my quad is terrible for it nowadays, but even in the past when doing 30-50km a day the honda mechanics always said it had a bit in the tank. I have put some water treatment stuff in again which does seem to help

Meant to reply last night but got sidetracked, sorry. Aye ur right on both fronts, althou its 1 of them exclusive 5* wedding venue jobs rather than a proper hotel and spent most of lock down being ripped apart by tradesmen to renovate it. Right fancy inside, but do bugger all outside really ( althou to be fair not sure if that is policy or just their groundsman? ) and i'm still surprised they haven't tackled the big hanger when it is almost above the only road in. Done plenty of jobs for local estates since the storms and they are closing footpaths for far less But it was more a point of principle rather than a money thing, would only be looking for a few hundred quid really, So not a lot for me or them but dragging logs and 2ft+ rings up a 45 degree banking would be just a little less soul destroying if u had some of ur time paid for. Access is terrible and no easy way

A mate worked in china a good 15-20 years ago. At 1 point he was at a big industrial docks throu work and seen them literally dumping ship loads of coal into the sea. He asked wot the hell was going on and they said the price of coal was so cheap they were buying as much as they could and it would be relatively easy to dredge up from the ocean floor when it was needed. Mentasl but at the same time sort of clever. While i think we go overboard with the green rules and regulations i'm so glad we do have some, would hate to see some of the areas around industrial sites in china