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Blah

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Everything posted by Blah

  1. Blah

    Best pruning saw

    I use mine all the time too for that sort of stuff.
  2. I used to leave some of my kit in my truck some nights, but since the guy I climb for was broken into on Monday night I think I might change that habit... He had everything loaded up in his Disco ready for big dismantle on Tuesday, including £300 worth of brand spanking new rigging kit. Scrotes disabled the car alarm, smashed window and had the lot.
  3. Same here. Tachyon with ZZ on for DRT, Drenaline with VT & RW for SRT. And an old bit for XTC Plus with a VT for sappy shite.
  4. Is that ease of changeover in terms of removing from and installing back on a rope Mark?
  5. If anybody's still looking for a neck tether, I've got one I'm not using.
  6. We took ours back to the dealers. They covered crankshaft replacement, new drum, sprocket etc FOC, covered by Stihl. The saws were out of warranty but we did have proof of purchase from there.
  7. Bucket bag here too. Cheap Stein ones work for me.
  8. Agree about the rope ID. I’ve got receipts and kept the bit of rope with the tag on. What about the splice and self-tied friction cord though? Anybody have any documentation about these new rules? Or can give me pointers on where to look?
  9. I don't know who can help you with splicing, but our LOLER guy has told us there's a new (type 3 PPE?) LOLER regulation whereby non-CE ropes or non-CE splices can no longer be passed. non-CE ropes apparently includes ropes where the tag is missing. Like the Imori I cut the end (with the tag) off so my ZigZag would fit. Or the same Imori that was respliced after I nicked that end. Or any self-tied prusik or end-to-end friction cord. As it's a new thing, he's passed the above for now as it's all safe to use, but he's given us six months notice to replace it as he reckons he'll have to fail the above in 6 months time. As far as I know, Honeybros are the only CE splicers. Thought it might be worth considering before having your rope spliced locally.
  10. Yep, did cs41 with Mart and Rol last May. Really good training, nice guys. Would recommend to anyone. And the Copple is a nice place to stay too
  11. Blah

    Stihl msa160t

    I'm pretty sure I read in the manual of mine somewhere that it's OK to use in the rain.
  12. I trained up as a climber at 38. It's working fine for me two years on.
  13. Yes. It gets through bigger stuff quicker. And through the battery. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  14. I have a MSA 160 and a MSA 200. Really like them both.
  15. Blah

    Main saws!

    Yes, and yes Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  16. 7 phone cables and an electricity sub-station. Small bits, small climb.
  17. I have a similar trackbarrow. For it to hold up half a ton of logs, it would have to be mounted on top, rather than out front, otherwise it would just tip forward.
  18. Any idea of when they will be available again?
  19. Blah

    STIHL battery saw

    That a 200 Bob? Happy with it?
  20. I've started using a triangular maillon rapide to attach my strop to my 201 and 160. Easier to swap between saws and works well for attaching to caritool. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  21. Thanks for all the replies by the way! Very helpful. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  22. So this is what I'd love see a picture of, if anyone has one handy. Does the prussik just go below the fig 8? Why does the prussik go to the harness leg?
  23. I did thanks
  24. Nice one, I got one recently as a work truck. Seems good so far. Glad to hear your hand's healed well. Sent from my iPhone using Arbtalk
  25. We were discussing this at work the other day, spike up a conifer with flipline and main climbing line, clean off brash on the way up. I was taught to just have the mainline around the tree. If gaffs kick out, I'm sliding down the tree. Boss was saying he leaves stubs for this reason. I don't like this solution as you then have to cut again on the way down, or worse, groundie has to clean off the chogs. The other climber was saying how he'd been taught to tie off his main climbline with a running bowline. Seems neat, but now you've got your full weight on prussik / zigzag / hh w/vt designed for a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage, so likely won't work brilliantly either. Did a search on the forum and saw some suggestions for adding in a figure of eight to descend, but can't really picture how that would work. Does any of you kind souls have a picture or two of how to set this up?

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