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Haironyourchest
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Everything posted by Haironyourchest
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I installed a dash-cam in my van partially with a view to incidents such as this...My thinking is that as the guy approaches in his van or pulls away I will have his reg. as I will not have the time or presence of mind, pen etc to take it by hand. I would then immediately phone the local police station with the reg and report the threat. If he really is someone dangerous they will hopefully let me know. And as a report has been filed, if there is any more hassle, they will already have a head's up and take your side. Seriously, I would have instantly reported. Maybe it's not too late to do so. If stuff like this ever goes to court the party who fired off the report is a step ahead. Next time something like this happens to any of the members or lurkers here, Please consider informing the police ASAP. You might be able to shrug it off but you owe it to all the people, men and women, who don't have that toughness. If we never exercise our rights the thugs win.... A run-in like that will spoil anyone's day, or week. Sad...
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Why don't they make filtered nose-plugs? Bet loads of people would buy them...
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quite an eventful day, hope tomorrows not the same.
Haironyourchest replied to s.varty's topic in General chat
Sorry to hear that Steve. Im worried about my shed, security virtually nil - chinese padlock but tbh if you pulled the door hard it would probably come away from the frame....No gate. Have been thinking about an under-floor stash for the more valuable gear, saws power tools etc (shed is wooden, on blocks) and keep a few dummy saws and tools lying around as decoys.. Either that or a trapdoor opening onto a man-size pit just inside the door. Bit harder to engineer though. -
I posted the vid on Arboristsite as well, and have been somewhat shocked at the difference in overall responses compared to Arbtalk. Im feeling that it must be a UK - US thing... The guys over in the new word have been telling me that I'm lucky to be alive and that thy couldn't stomach to watch the video etc...? Kind of made me a bit worried, what do you think - was the job really that dangerous? I know the cuts were wrong and crap etc. but was I in real danger? Hard to quantify if one wasn't actually threre, I guess. Or do we Islanders just have a more easy going attitude to danger? Hard to imagine. Then again it could just be pure coincidence....
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Lucky you didn't get yer arm broke mate...
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Three photos of the business end of my Stihl HT131 pole saw. I removed the head this afternoon, cut a strip out of a Lidle's Perlenbacher Weissbier can, and used it to sleeve the end of the shaft where it slots into the head. The reason? Couple years back the saw head took a wee whack, and cracked around where the screws make it tight to the shaft. Warrenty was not honoured and €400 for new head and shaft (shaft bearings were grinding as well) Few months later my nasty Hecht strimmer did the same thing. The response to both incidents was "you overtightened the screws" but this was not so - I know how to not over tighten a screw.... So I got to thinking that maybe this head-to-shaft system that all our tools seem to use is not so hot - look at the 131 - theres a good few mm of travel before it tightens to the shaft. That must equate to constant tension in the metal, and aluminium does Not like to bend... Is that big gap really necessary? I think not. With the sleeve fitted (around 2 wraps) it is just nice and snug, and only a little tension is needed to make good. I'll use it away and see how it goes.....
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What about filling the hole with epoxy putty and screwing in the bolt into the putty before it cures? Maybe oil the thread first so it can be removed again? I would 'roughen up' the inside surface of the drilled-out hole first, so the plug of cured putty doesn't rotate or pull out. Maybe use a junior hacksaw blade to cut light channels in the walls to prevent rotation - if that makes sense? Those puttys are fierce strong, and theres no great strain on that side of the break is there?
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True!
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For years I acted as an occasional groundie for a friend. After getting into forums and watching youtube vids I realised just how dangerous some of the guy's working habit were...the more I learned the more I freaked out..gradually did less and less with him, as I didn't want to be the one to witness him come a cropper. He would cut stuff on the ground 2-4" by clutching it with left hand and cut it with his top-handle, then cut into four foot lengths - like a human timberjack machine - then sned the lengths by holding them at arms reach near the end, with the most of the stick dangling down, and just run the flat of the bar up and down the stick, while twisting it. Spinning chain would get to within six inches of his fingers - no lie.
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Cheers!
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Thanks chrism3513 the next big one that comes along I'll take the bull by the horns and just go for it, without cutting out the buttresses. Will most likely mark it out with chalk though, my eye's just not that good to freehand it yet. Was thinking maybe a builder's self-levelling laser level might work, the ones that project a 'sheet' of laser...
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Amateurs built the Ark, and eejits built the Titanic...wait...?.. Seriously thanks a million, video making is a labour of love and a thankless job for the most part. It's great to have people actually watch the bloody thing and then take the time to comment, I really appreciate it.
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Cheers guys. Yes the little level came in handy - don't know if being dead level is really all that important, but why not? Often wished my saws had built in bubbles....Maybe should mention it to Husqvarna et al. Learning curve is right...maybe one day I'll have the nuts to climb!!
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Hi chrism3513, appreciate the comment! yes you're right, would have been a better job to not narrow the tree down. The reason I did that was simply because I wasn't confident lining up my cuts if I went in from both sides of the tree. The other trees were smaller diameter and it was hard to visualise the straight cuts inside the big gnarly roundy stem. So I thought it might be easier if I could start with some flat planes, and also narrow the stem so I could see the tip of the bar out the other side. I tried using a small spirit level and some rope to mark out the cuts on a previous tree, which kind of worked, but was rushing to finish the job and didn't bother doing that with the big boy. This was the widest tree I have felled so far, the stuff I usually deal with (as it comes up in maintenance work) is much smaller. My usual approach on trees over a foot and a half is to set up the cuts, leaving a somewhat oversize hinge, then apply a little tension with my tirfor. If she won't come, then I gently stroke the back of the hinge a bit and crank a bit more. I have read that 90% of fatal tree accidents occur within five feet of the tree, so I like to be away. If I get bad vibes I work on the hinge with my pole saw, if possible.
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Leafcut, many thanks for watching! Mick, I would have preferred to take the powerhead but the blasted outboard clutch on the Husqs forbids it (unless there's a trick Im not aware of - if anyone knows PLEASE tell me - this is not the first time this has happened) It's Daddy's saw so would have had to replace with same if nicked or damaged. Luckily there's not much crime round these parts, way up the back of beyond as well... Next saw will be inboard, just so much handier. Thinking about 880 for milling up those trees, but don't know if I can justify it. Have a mill for the 394 and it works with the three foot bar but I feel it strains the machine just a bit..... I dunno...
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Thanks Stubby, I like you too! Ti's a rare gem of an album, that's for sure...
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Thanks for all your kind replies guys and fair play for watching, you made my day!
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Right on Treequip - I normally have my helmet system on all the time, even when doing things like pounding wedges - best sixty bucks I have ever spent. I ditched it for the sake of the camera, taking a chance on a cracked skull, I know, but had earplugs in. I keep earplugs in my pockets at all times, loud pub bands, impromptue hammering etc, even throwing planks around. Grandad went deaf from splitting logs with a lump hammer and cold chisel....Ain't gonna happen to me (touch wood)
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Uncle Dave's Farm. Four trees, two silver firs and two spruces. The first three came down grand, all the cuts right etc. The last and biggest one was not so good. For some reason I made the face cut far to big, and then botched the hinge. Tree still fell in the right place and we were 'safe' the whole time. Maybe others can benefit from this mistake. Could have been a whole lot worse......I learned that I can cut a little bit more wood, but I can't put the wood back..... Before you all lambaste me, realise this happened in Ireland...Life works a bit differently here.... [ame] [/ame]
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I bought the Husqey helmet system some time back. Noticed some particles making it past the mesh. Oregon Goggles and polycarbonate faceshild were great till the fogged up so only suitable for sporadic use. My fix was to glue a second layer of mesh over the original mesh, using great dollops of contact adhesive around the edges of the faceplate then squeezing them together with a "welders vice-grip" (?) Done about a week so far, no sign of the glue failing. Visibillity none the worse and vastly better protection. I find the problem with visors is stuff can also get underneath them - notice it a lot when strimming...Best just keep your eyes closed really....
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The A-Team of Arborism! Cigar and gold chains wouldn't go amiss methinks. Chrome plated saws would be awesome too.... I offer my own HD Super Fine Promo video - "Insane In The Grain" [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmZAJtqjNnk[/ame]
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Hi all, Im new here, been lurking for a couple of years though. Thanks to everyone for sharing your experience, helps me a lot...made me smile reading Maico490's comment about the unavailability of real Hydrochloric acid. I needed to dissolve some cured cement off the face of some artistic stonework one time. Mate forget to sponge stone before the days end. Wire brush no good, cement cleaners no good. Disaster. So I asked my local chemist if he had any real Hydo. This is a little corner chemist in a seaside Irish village - antique brown bottles with cork stoppers in the window etc. probably most of the stuff banned since decades. Well he came back with a pint bottle of "pure" Hydo. Bout an inch left in the bottom. "I can't sell you this" he says. "And I shouldn't give it to you either...So if anything happens...its your bill..." On site, gauntlets and face shield in place, I opened the bottle and a big curling billow of smokey vapour came out. Bloody scary. Fizzled and made a yellow foam on the cement, and did dissolve the lighter stuff but not the ingrained stuff. Stank as well.
