Welshfred

I haven't read the old thread so this may have been covered but have you checked the manifold? I have a hot running 260 with a manifold split. Waiting on the part but hoping it's the root of the problem.

Although not in common Welsh usage I think. Nice mugs though, Welsh or not.

Popty ping...

Thanks all. Yes, I imagine it is the impulse line then. The AVs are a bit baggy but not split. A changeout is prob a good idea, there's a bit more flex in the saw than there should be and I may well have wrenched it around a bit. With hindsight I probably didn't finish the tank of fuel just thought I had when the line got pulled and the saw stopped. As soon as I shone a torch in there today I spotted the issue. As a side note those AVs don't seem to last very long.

Resolved. Fuel hose disconnected from cylinder. I'm surprised it was firing at all.... Starting issues appear sorted too.

Thanks. I'll look further today. Air leak sounds feasible. I'll check out the piston but am now also considering the hose between carb and cylinder. I had forgotten on a previous saw that rubber caused a problem with air leaking. Don't remember the symptoms though, it was years ago...

I've been running 260s and previously 026s for decades now and never encountered this problem before. So the saw has been running fine. A bit slow to start and recently needing 2 choke on/off sequences to start but running really nice after that until this point. I use it for a tank no problem, come back an hour later and it won't run. Fires with the choke then fires without then dies whether you give it throttle or not. Dies faster if you do. Will only then restart with choke again, then fires without choke as you'd hope but dies. I found I can repeat this sequence again and again but still the saw won't run. Just dies with throttle. If you start it with the brake off it races for about 3-5 seconds then dies. It feels like it's not getting enough fuel. Changed filter and spark plug, cleaned air filter, checked tank vent. No indication of leaks from the fuel hose. Discovered a leaking fuel tank cap, will replace but don't see that causing the problem. Looking today I couldn't locate the impulse hose - is it within the handle? Basically, any other thoughts? I'll admit I just don't want it to be a carb thing as that's a pita, but does it actually sound like a carb thing seeing as it's been running well generally? All I can think of now other than the carb is the fuel line is blocked perhaps. Quite a bit of disassembly to check that out but might have to. Just want to be getting on with things really! Any advice gratefully received... Cheers

If chainsaw use isn't an option then going through an area with the clearing saw blade followed by a run through with the mulcher to break down the bulk a bit. The lower you cut the stems the easier it'll be to top off the regrowth. The Stihl 461 or huskie equivalent will do the job fine.

The Stihl 461 is excellent. But if stems are that thick a chainsaw might be better first, cut them low with some rough chopping then use the brush cutter to tackle the regrowth next year. Use a long bar on the saw and gauntlets or super tough clothing. It depends what habitat you're transitioning to. If you want to encourage natural regeneration the rough chopped gorse could help protect the young trees from browsers.

Luxembourg???

Have a look at these Buckbootz B701SMWP Leather Goodyear Welted Waterproof Safety Rigger Bo GSWORKWEAR.COM The B701 rigger boot style features built-in ankle protection and supreme leg-ankle support, helped in part by the implementation of a shaped leg stem and padded thicker padded ankle area... I wouldn't go wading in them but they're pretty good for waterproofing. Wax helps of course. They do another type with more plastic moulding but they split on me and I got a full refund. Bought the ones above and v happy so far, kept the others for outdoor slippers. V comfy but I got them a size up and added extra insoles too. Trick is I think if it's proper raining just wear wellies. If I'm working on rough slopes with or without the saw or walking miles I wear lace up chainsaw boots but the riggers are great for most other work and definitely the kindest to my feet.

Individuals can't manage countries very well, that's the role of government surely? A government should govern the country as a whole, thinking long term, spending long term, planning for the future. That means some rules and some guidance for the individuals to follow, some of which will of course be unpopular with some, you can't please everyone all the time... But right wing government still has rules, sometimes quite strict ones...

Sounds more like anarchism than fascism...

So lean right for the sake of global balance? Almost seems you're making the case for centricism but I'm not sure that's what you intended. But seriously, I am interested to know which governments could be considered close to far left and really interested to know what issues are pushing /pulling people towards the (far) right. I am nonplussed as to the benefits to the people of right wing government...

Why?

It gets hotter, things burn better. No conspiracy here, just physics.

But stuffs burns really well when it's been dried out by excess heat. Arsonists don't have much fun when it's pissing down...

Not every asylum seeker wants to come to the UK, European countries already have high numbers of settled successful asylum applicants. But consider if part of your family is here already, plus you speak English but not Italian, Greek, french etc. Having got as far as Calais you have probably been subject to risks worse than the concept of crossing the channel. If we could process claims in France the 20% who aren't eligible would never arrive because the smuggling business would break down. The 80% who are eligible get to come and contribute to society here. Add in a program of affordable house building and we wouldn't need to house anyone in hotels/barges/camps. Alternatively the government could actually process some of the existing claims. It seems they'd rather create outrage by spending taxpayers money on hotels than do their jobs and process the claims. Because that's a pull factor apparently...

But you can see them with the naked eye presumably! Grain weevils? I had a bag of whole wheat for the hens absolutely infested to the point the bin of feed was getting hot! Hens didn't eat them either, I was squashing them in they're droves , hunting them round the henhouse. They congregated in the lip of the metal feeders. That was in autumn so the cold weather sorted them out eventually. And yes I got a free bag to (partially) compensate for all the hastle.

I've found 12 wasps nests so far this year, all within a couple of acres on brambly south facing slope. I think they're in old tree stumps mostly. I've been clearing around young trees on the slope, only been stung once but serious paranoia... Hard to get away quickly when the vegetation is waist to head high! I've never known so many.

Four things have improved my chainsaw milling experience over the last year, each pretty much as significant as the other, each a massive step change for the better. 1. Handcrank winch 2. Lo pro bar and chain 3. Battery powered respirator 4. Aspen fuel This is on a relatively small setup, ms 660 with 30" bar. I keep the ladder on for all cuts too to reduce friction and avoid cumulative errors.

My woodland in West Wales was one of those 50s experimental FC plantings. J larch, Douglas, noble fir, lodgepole, cryptomeria, hemlock, red oak, beech, poplar, spruce, Corsican pine and a small patch of cypress. No one ever thinned until I started in the 90s so the cypress never got to sawlog size. Maybe not the best site for it too. Dry south facing slope. The timber I got though was beautiful straight poles, perfect for pole frame building, very durable heartwood in ground contact and cleaves well when not spiral grained. Oh and lovely and lightweight, easy to handle. I've felled it all now and replanted with chestnut but there is some regen. I had assumed that meant Lawson if Leyland is infertile but are people saying that's not necessarily the case? I find it very hard to tell the two apart visually...

Nice boards. Make sure you keep them very dry! Debarking might be worthwhile too.

This ties in with what I was thinking. I think it is chalara I'm seeing as the mycelium under the bark and the brown staining in the timber are just like that I've seen in youngertrees which have succumbed very rapidly. Those trees at about 15cm dbh were brown throughout and saturated with water. Even when completely dried out the logs had no calorific value, they burnt without heat in the stove. This year's stuff is bigger at 20-30cm dbh and it was interesting how the fungus kicked off in the cut logs. I'm still undecided whether it's worth milling, even though it looks ok fresh the fungus is in there. Lurking... On a slight tangent, I've yet to see a mature tree completely break down and have a concern they will rot below ground and topple rather than break down from the top. I've seen young ones rot out at ground level but so far I've not felled a large tree with active fungus at the base. Although it is there as demonstrated by the cut logs.

I've been splitting some rounds for firewood off a dieback Ash I felled late last winter. When felled the lower trunk looked normal, nice and pale, no sign of fungus. Left lying in lengths for 8 months and now the wood is full of brown staining and mycelium under the bark. So the tree must have been full of fungus at felling time even though only visible in the crown wood and it's got going very nicely in the felled timber. I was thinking of milling some of the trees still to be felled but I'm wondering if it's worth it, the trees are a year further down the diseased path and it seems the whole thing is infected. Perhaps if the boards were stacked dry and perhaps debarked the fungus would die off...