Welshfred
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Everything posted by Welshfred
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Scots is pretty durable I think, Corsican and lodgepole are appalling outdoors in my experience.
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Goats.
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Oh dear... Wordle 1,039 X/6 ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬜🟨⬜⬜🟨 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩⬜🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩 ⬜🟩🟩🟩🟩
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I'm sure there'll be another opportunity...
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Wordle 1,023 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜🟨🟨 ⬜🟨🟨🟨⬜ 🟨🟨🟩⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟩🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Hard work today!
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Fast growing evergreen tree recommendations?
Welshfred replied to Hardanger's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Privet? Great nectar resource if left to go uncut. -
I sprayed mine, it's done well indoors but gone patchy outside .
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Beech doesn't coppice well at all in my experience. That "hedge" will be even more of a problem in years to come though. I doubt you'll kill it if you cut it in half but I don't think it will become a nice hedge either. Maybe reduce gradually over a few years and keep an eye on a few that might come out as nice Pollard's? Bit late this year for drastic action though. Or clearfell and replant. Then hedge.
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Disappointed and relieved in equal measure Wordle 1,010 6/6 ⬜⬜⬜🟨⬜ 🟩⬜🟨⬜🟩 🟩🟩⬜⬜🟩 🟩🟩⬜⬜🟩 🟩🟩🟩⬜🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
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Just lucky... Wordle 1,006 2/6 ⬜🟨⬜⬜🟨 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Yesterday bogged down in multiple choice, scraped a 5....
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I build a single pile each year, about 6x6 square, starting now with a layer of sticks and stems for airflow. I don't have sides so the rats don't get cosy but build it straight up as layered and straight sided as possible with all the garden and kitchen waste, comfrey, wood ash, chicken shit/straw, grass clippings, brown cardboard and quite a lot of piss. It get to six foot high sometimes but drops again quickly, over days and does get a heat up in the summer. I then leave that for a year before turning to mix any dry spots, clumps etc and leave for another summer before use. Last year I got 12 barrows full off it. This year I'm experimenting growing potatoes in the 2nd year heap to get them out of the garden rotation and avoiding Lots of digging. Also hoping to grow some alfalfa in the area round the heap as another bulk composting crop, soaking up any leached nutrient. All a bit behind this year as I had to fell a big Ash into the area and didn't want to trash the spuds.
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Wordle 1,002 4/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟩⬜🟩⬜🟩 🟩⬜🟩🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Average...
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Wordle 1,001 2/6 ⬜🟨⬜🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Me and the Mrs also do wordle together, prob gives an advantage but not always... Today I was quick off the mark and this is all my own work. She did get a 1 recently though which obvs I can't claim any credit for at all. First words vary, usually vowel heavy but bagging a consonant in the first line is v helpful...
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So she should be shot???!! That's your level???!! Seriously???!!
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Breathable membrane would sit on top of the joists with a drape to allow any moisture that gets on top to run down into the gutter. Your felt is doing this job but has no breathability, except at the laps. If you have air gap under the felt, between the joists, there may be enough airflow to vent the space but it must be a continuous gap and the airflow must enter and leave from somewhere (lap leakage?). A vapour control layer (membrane) is fitted below the joists to slow moisture flow up into the joist space to a rate slower than the moisture can leave through the upper membrane, keeping the space dry. Consider too whether boxing the felt lap air leakage out of the main roof space might reduce ventilation too far if no soffits...?? My knowledge doesn't come from retrofitting old houses. There's so many panel insulation products out there, some with integral VCL I believe, talking to a pro will make your life easier as they know what's available and suitable. But more research required I reckon...
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Then the recommended ventilation is equiv to 10mm continuous at eaves and equiv 5mm continuous at ridge. You should already have that in your current setup through soffits/ridge vents I'd have thought. Your risk is, if you seal in the rafters there's a risk of condensation. You're getting into vapour control membrane territory too if humid air from the living area can migrate into the boxed in insulation/roof joist space. Suggest further research/professional advice...
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It certainly is. Insulating between rafters with airflow above is fine but the rafters then become cold bridges increasing condensation risk. An additional layer of insulation fixed to the underside of the rafters should prevent this. Regarding airflow, is the roof flat or pitched, if pitched, how steep, single or double?
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First series of dry days in months. Finally the standing water on slopes is drying up.
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Very interesting. I'd say go for it with a few and see what happens. Worst case scenario you get some good standing deadwood stumps for fungi and invertebrates. I did similar in a stand of Alder /Oak , thinning the Alder, and had some with regrowth, some died and after 1 year had a variety of fruiting fungi.
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+1 for the 261 but nothing at all wrong with a 260 if you find a good used one from a good source. Recommend 13" bar, less sharpening and nifty in the undergrowth. The 26 series are excellent workhorses.
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I haven't read the old thread so this may have been covered but have you checked the manifold? I have a hot running 260 with a manifold split. Waiting on the part but hoping it's the root of the problem.
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Although not in common Welsh usage I think. Nice mugs though, Welsh or not.
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Popty ping...
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Thanks all. Yes, I imagine it is the impulse line then. The AVs are a bit baggy but not split. A changeout is prob a good idea, there's a bit more flex in the saw than there should be and I may well have wrenched it around a bit. With hindsight I probably didn't finish the tank of fuel just thought I had when the line got pulled and the saw stopped. As soon as I shone a torch in there today I spotted the issue. As a side note those AVs don't seem to last very long.
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Resolved. Fuel hose disconnected from cylinder. I'm surprised it was firing at all.... Starting issues appear sorted too.
