Welshfred

I build a single pile each year, about 6x6 square, starting now with a layer of sticks and stems for airflow. I don't have sides so the rats don't get cosy but build it straight up as layered and straight sided as possible with all the garden and kitchen waste, comfrey, wood ash, chicken shit/straw, grass clippings, brown cardboard and quite a lot of piss. It get to six foot high sometimes but drops again quickly, over days and does get a heat up in the summer. I then leave that for a year before turning to mix any dry spots, clumps etc and leave for another summer before use. Last year I got 12 barrows full off it. This year I'm experimenting growing potatoes in the 2nd year heap to get them out of the garden rotation and avoiding Lots of digging. Also hoping to grow some alfalfa in the area round the heap as another bulk composting crop, soaking up any leached nutrient. All a bit behind this year as I had to fell a big Ash into the area and didn't want to trash the spuds.

Wordle 1,002 4/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟩⬜🟩⬜🟩 🟩⬜🟩🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Average...

Wordle 1,001 2/6 ⬜🟨⬜🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Me and the Mrs also do wordle together, prob gives an advantage but not always... Today I was quick off the mark and this is all my own work. She did get a 1 recently though which obvs I can't claim any credit for at all. First words vary, usually vowel heavy but bagging a consonant in the first line is v helpful...

So she should be shot???!! That's your level???!! Seriously???!!

Breathable membrane would sit on top of the joists with a drape to allow any moisture that gets on top to run down into the gutter. Your felt is doing this job but has no breathability, except at the laps. If you have air gap under the felt, between the joists, there may be enough airflow to vent the space but it must be a continuous gap and the airflow must enter and leave from somewhere (lap leakage?). A vapour control layer (membrane) is fitted below the joists to slow moisture flow up into the joist space to a rate slower than the moisture can leave through the upper membrane, keeping the space dry. Consider too whether boxing the felt lap air leakage out of the main roof space might reduce ventilation too far if no soffits...?? My knowledge doesn't come from retrofitting old houses. There's so many panel insulation products out there, some with integral VCL I believe, talking to a pro will make your life easier as they know what's available and suitable. But more research required I reckon...

Then the recommended ventilation is equiv to 10mm continuous at eaves and equiv 5mm continuous at ridge. You should already have that in your current setup through soffits/ridge vents I'd have thought. Your risk is, if you seal in the rafters there's a risk of condensation. You're getting into vapour control membrane territory too if humid air from the living area can migrate into the boxed in insulation/roof joist space. Suggest further research/professional advice...

It certainly is. Insulating between rafters with airflow above is fine but the rafters then become cold bridges increasing condensation risk. An additional layer of insulation fixed to the underside of the rafters should prevent this. Regarding airflow, is the roof flat or pitched, if pitched, how steep, single or double?

First series of dry days in months. Finally the standing water on slopes is drying up.

Very interesting. I'd say go for it with a few and see what happens. Worst case scenario you get some good standing deadwood stumps for fungi and invertebrates. I did similar in a stand of Alder /Oak , thinning the Alder, and had some with regrowth, some died and after 1 year had a variety of fruiting fungi.

+1 for the 261 but nothing at all wrong with a 260 if you find a good used one from a good source. Recommend 13" bar, less sharpening and nifty in the undergrowth. The 26 series are excellent workhorses.

I haven't read the old thread so this may have been covered but have you checked the manifold? I have a hot running 260 with a manifold split. Waiting on the part but hoping it's the root of the problem.

Although not in common Welsh usage I think. Nice mugs though, Welsh or not.

Popty ping...

Thanks all. Yes, I imagine it is the impulse line then. The AVs are a bit baggy but not split. A changeout is prob a good idea, there's a bit more flex in the saw than there should be and I may well have wrenched it around a bit. With hindsight I probably didn't finish the tank of fuel just thought I had when the line got pulled and the saw stopped. As soon as I shone a torch in there today I spotted the issue. As a side note those AVs don't seem to last very long.

Resolved. Fuel hose disconnected from cylinder. I'm surprised it was firing at all.... Starting issues appear sorted too.

Thanks. I'll look further today. Air leak sounds feasible. I'll check out the piston but am now also considering the hose between carb and cylinder. I had forgotten on a previous saw that rubber caused a problem with air leaking. Don't remember the symptoms though, it was years ago...

I've been running 260s and previously 026s for decades now and never encountered this problem before. So the saw has been running fine. A bit slow to start and recently needing 2 choke on/off sequences to start but running really nice after that until this point. I use it for a tank no problem, come back an hour later and it won't run. Fires with the choke then fires without then dies whether you give it throttle or not. Dies faster if you do. Will only then restart with choke again, then fires without choke as you'd hope but dies. I found I can repeat this sequence again and again but still the saw won't run. Just dies with throttle. If you start it with the brake off it races for about 3-5 seconds then dies. It feels like it's not getting enough fuel. Changed filter and spark plug, cleaned air filter, checked tank vent. No indication of leaks from the fuel hose. Discovered a leaking fuel tank cap, will replace but don't see that causing the problem. Looking today I couldn't locate the impulse hose - is it within the handle? Basically, any other thoughts? I'll admit I just don't want it to be a carb thing as that's a pita, but does it actually sound like a carb thing seeing as it's been running well generally? All I can think of now other than the carb is the fuel line is blocked perhaps. Quite a bit of disassembly to check that out but might have to. Just want to be getting on with things really! Any advice gratefully received... Cheers

If chainsaw use isn't an option then going through an area with the clearing saw blade followed by a run through with the mulcher to break down the bulk a bit. The lower you cut the stems the easier it'll be to top off the regrowth. The Stihl 461 or huskie equivalent will do the job fine.

The Stihl 461 is excellent. But if stems are that thick a chainsaw might be better first, cut them low with some rough chopping then use the brush cutter to tackle the regrowth next year. Use a long bar on the saw and gauntlets or super tough clothing. It depends what habitat you're transitioning to. If you want to encourage natural regeneration the rough chopped gorse could help protect the young trees from browsers.

Luxembourg???

Have a look at these Buckbootz B701SMWP Leather Goodyear Welted Waterproof Safety Rigger Bo GSWORKWEAR.COM The B701 rigger boot style features built-in ankle protection and supreme leg-ankle support, helped in part by the implementation of a shaped leg stem and padded thicker padded ankle area... I wouldn't go wading in them but they're pretty good for waterproofing. Wax helps of course. They do another type with more plastic moulding but they split on me and I got a full refund. Bought the ones above and v happy so far, kept the others for outdoor slippers. V comfy but I got them a size up and added extra insoles too. Trick is I think if it's proper raining just wear wellies. If I'm working on rough slopes with or without the saw or walking miles I wear lace up chainsaw boots but the riggers are great for most other work and definitely the kindest to my feet.

Individuals can't manage countries very well, that's the role of government surely? A government should govern the country as a whole, thinking long term, spending long term, planning for the future. That means some rules and some guidance for the individuals to follow, some of which will of course be unpopular with some, you can't please everyone all the time... But right wing government still has rules, sometimes quite strict ones...

Sounds more like anarchism than fascism...

So lean right for the sake of global balance? Almost seems you're making the case for centricism but I'm not sure that's what you intended. But seriously, I am interested to know which governments could be considered close to far left and really interested to know what issues are pushing /pulling people towards the (far) right. I am nonplussed as to the benefits to the people of right wing government...

Why?