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Paul in the woods

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Everything posted by Paul in the woods

  1. Paul in the woods
    I've had a 352 for about three years now. I'm only a domestic user so can't really say if it's getting hot compared to other saws but there's no damage and the plug looked fine when I removed it. It's run on Aspen 2 and had 80+ tanks through it. I've tached it and when warmed according to Echo's service guide it was 12000 rpm, and when I checked after extended use it was just over 12500. If it's tached after starting then about 11000. The only problems I've had with it was problems caused by a service which were quickly sorted.
  2. Paul in the woods
    This might be useful if you've got time to look through it. It's the Forest Mensuration Handbook, all 280 pages! Things like stacks are covered from page 27 - 35. https://www.forestry.gov.uk/PDF/FCBK039.pdf/$FILE/FCBK039.pdf You'll also find cord to m3 conversion factors on page 198
  3. Paul in the woods
    The video says Hoyos de pinares, which is just west of Madrid. I wonder how they get back down?
  4. Paul in the woods
    Thank you for the detailed reply wyk, very helpful. I currently have a small Echo 352 and would happily buy another but I don't have a decent Echo dealer nearby. If I did I might be tempted to go for a slightly larger saw and get the Echo 501SX.
  5. Paul in the woods
    Anyone else noticed some chainsaws on the Makita UK site are now showing a 3 year warranty symbol? Such as this: https://www.makitauk.com/product/ea4300f38c.html I wonder if this is a mistake or if they are bringing in a longer warranty?
  6. Paul in the woods
    I'm looking at these two saws myself and the online specs say they are the same dry weight at 4.5kg but the MS 241 C-M is more powerful at 2.3kW vs the CS-390ESX 1.9kW. Is that not the case, or was the old 241 heavier?
  7. Paul in the woods
    Thanks for the update, it would also be good to see the new growth the euc manages to produce after being cut. How do you rate the euc as a firewood?
  8. Paul in the woods
    The FC link on this page does not seem to work: https://www.trees.org.uk/News-Blog/News/Chalara-dieback-Managing-ash-trees (Appologies, I edited my original post as I missed the Chalara link on your page. Actually, the page does not seem to load correctly in my browser (Firefox on a PC), the right hand menu gets overlaid on the 3rd row of pests. If I shrink the page it loads ok).
  9. Paul in the woods
    BT, well their contractors, recently replaced a pole on my property. They just pulled the old one out in a few moments. The old pole was condemned and needed replacing within 6 months, 5 years later... Anyway, getting hold of anyone to talk about the pole wasn't easy. I gather if it's actually dangerous BT Open Reach will come out within 7 days. As for the cost, I would have thought removal would have been part of the cost of re-routing.
  10. Paul in the woods
    One of the evergreen honeysuckles, Lonicera pileata or Lonicera nitida?
  11. Paul in the woods
    Luckily my stove manufacturer had a conversion kit. I took out the old grate but needed new back and side fire bricks as they needed to be bigger. I also needed to fit a new log and catch bar (suitable for double doors) and plug the side riddle hole. Here's a link to a video to a smaller stove: https://www.hunterstoves.co.uk/fitting-a-wood-conversion-kit-herald-5-slimline
  12. Paul in the woods
    I don't like the phrase "does not contain any chemicals", what does it contain then? I'm also a bit confused as to how it works. I've converted my stove from multi-fuel to just wood, and that means taking out the grate. I could see possible benefits if you just burn wood on a mutli-fuel stove, but you shouldn't be feeding in air from underneath once lit anyway. Cheap enough to try though.
  13. Paul in the woods
    Various petrol stations will have their own rules, but from the government's site: http://www.hse.gov.uk/fireandexplosion/petrol-storage-club-association.htm http://www.hse.gov.uk/fireandexplosion/owner-petrol-station.htm#containers-filled
  14. Paul in the woods
    I note they show bottom up fire lighting when I thought a top down method was better (i.e. put some large bits at the bottom then kindling on top)? I also can't help feeling the people who watch these videos already know what they are doing and it's those people who don't that need to be told.
  15. Paul in the woods
    Portable DVR seems to come up with some ideas like these? https://www.amazon.com/Mini-1080P-LCD-Portable-Recorder/dp/B009ZZJV56 http://txgsupplier.com/portable-recorder/portable-digital-audio-video-mini-dvr-recorder-lcd-screen.html
  16. Paul in the woods
    I don't have a specific use but do need wood for floorboards, a new kitchen, shelving etc. I'd rather have some planks sitting about waiting rather than having to buy stuff in. I have plenty of mature ash as well but the access to that is terrible so that may be logged. The young ash would be more manageable for me as a hobbyist with a chainsaw mill, although I've noted Mr Hewn's comments about a bandsaw.
  17. Paul in the woods
    I've been cutting and splitting some young ash and mature ash into logs and the difference is noticeable. The young ash is much more stringy and fibrous than the older ash and the older ash seems more dusty when cutting. I wonder if planks from the young ash would be less durable.
  18. Paul in the woods
    Thank you for the reply. I don't have any use in mind, I'm looking at it more from a woodland management point of view. I.e. these ash are unlikely to be here in a few years and it would be a shame just to log them. There are a few I could get a couple of meters lengths of 8" boards from.
  19. Paul in the woods
    I've been thinning the young ash on our woodland and I've been wondering what the smallest diameter the remaining trees need to get to to be worth milling? Normally I would say they are far too small but with ash dieback looming I would like to mill some for future use.
  20. Paul in the woods
    The RHS has some good advice on getting figs to fruit. Worth a read for general maintenance even if you do get someone in to bring it under control initially. https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/grow-your-own/fruit/figs https://www.rhs.org.uk/Advice/profile?pid=106#section-2
  21. Paul in the woods
    Was the grey hound insured? If so then speak to them. Does your sis-in-law have legal advice on her house insurance?
  22. Paul in the woods
    To my uneducated eye they look like sycamores. Sycamores (aphids on them) will drip sticky substances onto the cars in the car park so I would have thought someone has asked for them to be cut.
  23. Paul in the woods
    Ours were still on our ivy a couple of weeks back. They are now on the gorse when the weather allows but are mainly bringing water in. @Wonky, I'm glad I left a super on each of ours as it has been warm and wet so the bees will have been munching through their stores. Have you 'hefted' your hives to see what they have left?
  24. Paul in the woods
    I'm going by our own observation of our own honey bees. Not all flowers are as useful to bees as others, some produce more nectar or more pollen, and when you look at pollen some has higher protein that others. So, honey bees will be choosy and may well prefer a different plant than your fruit trees. Some may well visit them but the bulk will be on something more useful. With regard to the US, thankfully we don't farm like them but I thought it was crops like almonds rather than apples that have huge hive movements? I'm all for people keeping honey bees but I doubt they are necessary for most orchard keepers to ensure good pollination, in the UK at least.
  25. Paul in the woods
    Sadly Codling moth isn't prevented by grease bands according to the RHS. With regard to bees for pollinating apples, if you're thinking of honey bees they often go elsewhere as other plants provide better forage at that time of year. We tend to see bumble bees on our apples a fair bit while our honey bees go off elsewhere. Good idea about a fruity subsection.

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