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Hi, Not great photos and I tried zooming but too low res. Is there just that 1 patch of 5-6 fruiting bodies? Can you take closer photos of the fungi in-situ and then pick a mushroom photo it from side, then cut it vertically through the centre and photo again. One possibility is Honey Fungus, but can't tell from your photos. How's the rest of the tree look (probably leafless now but healthy this summer)? I would say it is worth keeping an eye on but no need to fill the saws and get cutting this year! Hope that helps, jan.

I run Tay Tree Surgery, a small tree surgery business based in Newport-on-Tay, Fife, and I'm looking to take on a groundie. We have run as a team of 3+ for many years. Company has been going 10yrs+. Ideally would have chainsaw ticket as a minimum, but willing to train up and pay for tickets for a committed employee. This role has scope to progress to be a climber in the medium term. We are an experienced team with good machines to get jobs done quickly and efficiently. Must be reliable and keen to learn about Arb. Pay dependent on tickets and experience. Email [email protected] or ring on 07917 226 230.

Hi, It would be helpful to add what tickets you have and the area you cover, scotland's a big place! Jan.

Looks like deodar cedar.

The tools (540i and 2x hedgecutters) I have are great when working, but have had more issues than petrol stuff. In 4yrs of professional use 1 charger died, long reach hedge cutter repaired once under warranty and once outside warranty.At the moment for me the Pros out weighs the Cons, so happy to continue with battery stuff. Hopefully the longevity will be improved! Maybe someone from Husqvarna will address this.

Mine did same under warranty - sent it to FR Jones for repair - think that's what made them go bust! Never got the charger back - was about £120 for a new one.

You both have a duty of care. However no further action needed, by you, as you have informed the tree owner (hopefully in writing) of your concern and advice to remove. It is their responsibility to action it or not. If it fails and goes to court coz someone is injured they will have to explain why they did nothing.

Pruning is a good idea, when moved it will lose a lot of small roots for water uptake, so reducing leaf cover will reduce water demand. Winter (when dormant) is best time to do it. The next few months will be the worst time, but if you have to make sure you water it regularly. Good luck. Jan.

Looks like Goat willow to me, The Collins tree guide covers everything I've ever needed, can pick up a 2nd hand copy for about a fiver online. I've got 2 one for home and other stays in the van. Cheers, Jan.

Not something I've seen before. Location would help. Re mulching, you need to leave a gap between the mulch and tree stem, ie at least 5cm all around. It looks in one photo like the mulch is piled up around the trunk, might just look like that in the pic?

I'm not going to download any random files from your post. As stere said post images.

I have had both 18v topper and 36v back handle makita chainsaws. Both broke at around 2yslr old with light use. I got the 18v replaced under warranty as Covid delayed getting it fixed. The 36v just stopped working, out of warranty. I won't be buying any more Makita saws!

Re tree surveying. I did the PTI course about 5yr ago, course was intense but enjoyable. All the guys I got to know passed, though I heard some others failed. There is a higher failure rate than most courses. Just do your prep beforehand, if you're interested in tree biology and fungi and read up you should be fine. Think you said you had done level 4 arb course so no worries. I hadn't done any official arb theory courses before but had >5yrs on the tools and knew a few fungi. I have studied to degree level previously in the past as a nurse. So I knew how to study. A mix of years of hands on experience and reading is sufficient prep for most. I now do surveys as a small part of my work, it's a bit of a change and requires different mental skills to tree work. I usually get to do the treework recomendations I suggest. Which kind of completes the circle. I get someone else in to do picus or if it's more than I can manage. I only do hazard inspections, not gone down the bs5387/trees and development route.it doesn't really appeal and I don't have the time to do the learning involved. The reports are often on a quicker turnaround than I can do with my treework being the main job. Hope that helps a bit. Jan.

Following on from old man Mick's advice, I'm a spritely 54 and still climb or groundy 4 days a week. I run my own business and try not to beast myself or the team (barring the odd underpriced job). I use fridays to quote, run the show etc or as a spare day if weather mucks up the diary. I'd use the money from your Ferrari to set yourself up! - I'm assuming you have one as you work 5 days a week climbing (circa £200 a day), plus every other weekend, no mortgage kids or drinking. You are at peak disposable income stage, it only gets tougher from this point. Set yourself up and be you own boss, with the pros and cons of that, or work for others and be prepared to be run ragged during the week, but you get weekends and evenings off which as a boss you'll be working some of. I do a bit of Tree Surveying (on a friday), quite a nice change of pace, but I'd get bored doing it all the time - at least half your time will be in front of a screen writing reports. It ain't very exciting! Dunno if that helps at all. Personally I'd stop working weekends and enjoy my weekends more, or save up for your own show! Jan.

I didn't make the decisions on whether the tree was to stay or go. The picus guy made recommendations. I'm no expert, but feel that sycamore, beech, horse chestnut have little resistance to decay fungi. Trees with heartwood are more resistant I think. But happy to be corrected.