Bob The Dog

The way I was taught on the cs38 seemed simple and effective. Put an extra loop in your prussik to add more friction to your main line. Tie a normal prussik just above your bridge carabiner and attach that to the injured persons bridge / carabiner. Take up the slack in that carabiner and attach yourselves together via a quick draw or anothe prussik looped between the bridges to keep each other close. Before cutting their line, ensure all the slack is taken out of their prussik so they don't drop. Once their line is cut, you can lower yourselves to the ground nice and quickly. You could also use your strop around their shoulder and underarm to keep their upper body in close to you. To me, this seemed simple and was applied quickly. I'm not sure, tho who knows until the day, that I'd be bothering too much with wanting to have a free hand to tend to the casualty on the way down. Perhaps a quick patch up in the tree if a catastrophic bleed, and then get down ASAP for better help on the ground.

That looks like it'll be worth a go. £5 or £6 each off the net, and are described as power transmission belts, and not regular fan belts, so ought to work. Certainly cheaper than from greenmech. May order a pair and see how it goes. Anyone else used them?

A good way for a company to make money I suppose. If they don't give the spec, then we have to go direct to them for the part. Will be interesting to know what they say. I need some new belts too, so if you get any luck can you update this post please. Thanks.

I've no idea whether you could source a replacement belt from elsewhere (car spares dealer?), but for me, I would always use the genuine parts.

Have a look on the net for your nearest dealer and they'll send you some. I think a pair were around £25-£30. Just let them know which type you have (petrol engine / pto etc) and they'll know which ones you need. Greenmech dealers are very helpful. And if they're no good, go direct to the tech guys at greenmech themselves.

I run both the 550xp and 365, which I've modded into a 372 by removing the fins from the transfer covers. It's a really easy job. I love the 550, but when it comes to blocking down, the 365 is used more often than not. There are plenty of used saw deals to be had out there. I made a cheeky offer and picked up my used 365 xtorq for £350 with a 20" canon bar fitted. It was only 12 months old and barely used as the guy had bought it for firewood and it was too big for him. If you're not worried about second hand, and it looks good, give it a go. 3 of my saws are second hand and are great!

As I understand, wheelchairs are, and so are some mobility scooters. The latter are given two categories. One which can go on the pavement, and the other which is road legal. Not sure what differences there are though. Speed I would imagine!

Let's not knock plod too much eh. On the whole, I think the majority are decent and try to do a good job. What may be nothing to one person could well be a big deal to another. They deal with what they are sent to or come across, so saying they should be concentrating on more important issues is nonsense. They get it in the neck for ignoring things, and then get it in the neck for dealing with things. It's a no win situation. Sure, some could handle situations a little better, but that's true for every walk of life. Imagine this country without the police service we currently have. It would be an awful place. Anarchy would rule. Perhaps if the pavement was that busy, the girls father should've stopped her from riding? Typical of the current climate - parents taking no control and police getting the blame. Discipline should start at home, and not be left to others to sort out.

Adults riding on the pavements, especially in busy areas are a PITA, and I do my best to force them off and onto the road if I'm walking along. However, common sense has clearly gone out of the window with this bobby. Great to see kids riding bikes and having exercise, and I really don't think there are many adults out there who'd be too pissed off at seeing little kids riding along on the pavement. In fact, it should be an offence for kids of a young age to be on the roads at all IMO, especially unsupervised.

Once the footings were in and level the rest of it went very well. The cedar shingles were a bit slow going though - and managing my 3 year old helper slowed things down a little! Gotta go back and finish off a few little bits and pieces once I've got a couple of spare hours.

This is a log store I built for my mate a few mo tha ago. It takes 24 cubic metres and he has it completely full, with a load more under tarps! Wish it was mine!!

I'm no Nancy climber. I just take care of my kit. I don't have loads of the latest Gucci crap dripping off me either. I've been using hand and power tools for many years, and the one thing I have learned is to look after your kit, else you'll just keep spending money replacing it. I've seen plenty of guy just dropping saws onto bungees and letting them crash into branches, and then wondering why the plastic bits snap. Doesn't take many more seconds to carefully lower your saw instead of letting it fall.

I have a 200t and recently picked up a 540. I've got to say, I think the 540 is a great saw. Loads of poke, well balanced and seemed to go forever on a tank of fuel. The 200t is great and I'd happily take either up into the tree, but given the choice, I'd have the Husky. More than anything, it's probably me being a Husky fan more than a Stihl fan. Both very good saws IMO. I wonder whether talk of the saw disintegrating is just down to heavy handed users? I'm careful with mine as they cost a lot of money, but I've seen others not giving two hoots about the saw and bashing it about. Probably because someone else paid for it.

There was one going on ebay last week for £2500. Looked really tidy and had a spare set of blades. Nearly bought it as a spare at that price!

Keep the blades in good order and you'll be amazed at what the CS100 will devour. I love mine. Easy to move about on site and loads up the ramp into the trailer with ease. And they don't seem to lose much money, so you'll get your money back if it's not what you want.

I'll see if he's come up with anything on a couple of days when I speak to him. Thanks.

No. Wasn't time to do it today. I asked the guy what he knew about it and it appears he knows nothing! I'm not touching it until I know exactly what the score is with it.

Your thoughts please. I went to look at a sycamore reduction job today. The customer said he may not want it done until next year, and may actually even want the whole thing removing as it's leaning a little. Anyway, there is a bat box, currently unoccupied, fixed to this tree, approx 7 feet off the ground, and it was apparently put up as part of a planning condition when the house was built. It's a very rural location and loads of bats about. Was just wondering what your thoughts would be regarding reductions or removal? Clearly I don't want to be leaving myself open to prosecution for offences against bats. Could the box be relocated, as long as it's not inhabited, or would there be some planning application to have it moved? Thanks.

I was quoted £2 a piece from greenmech for these bolts. I'm pretty sure you could pick up a decent stainless steel bolt of the same design from any decent fixings supplier for less than that.

Nice one. It's a bit of a fiddle, but worth taking the time to get it right.

Did you manage to sort your blade gap john p?

0.5mm is correct. Does seem a little close, but it's defo the right gap. If you need to adjust the gap, slacken off the half dozen bolts holding the anvil in place. Then you can tap the anvil down to lessen the gap. I just use a regular feeler gauge, get it somewhere near right on one end and then work my way to the other. You'll probably need to go back to the start point and readjust a couple of times, but persevere and you'll get there! In led to believe the new machines come with a specially made gauge which is 0.5mm thick for this very job. 5mm seem like a long way out, bearing in mind you've just had it. Was it new or a used one?

I liked the look of the rapide version, but like the venom 22ton as it can be changed from horizontal to vertical for the really big logs that can't be lifted up top.

Perhaps I'm a bit odd? But I quite enjoy hand aharpening chains. I can take as much or as little off as I like, and find it quite straightforward to get the angles right. I use the stihl sharpening kits, only £10 or £12 and I have 3 different kits for various chain sizes. I also tend to use oregon chains which have a witness mark, so helps to maintain the right angle. It's not easy to start with, but I was lucky enough to have a very good tutor when I did CS30/31. The only time I hate it is when I'm on a job, doing a 28" bar in a stump vice! At home in the workshop, stick it in a vice and it's easy. Wasn't to start with, but became so with practice.

Not sure whether the Kohler engines were used prior to B&S. I've not had any experience with that engine, but the B&S starts and runs well, and barely uses any fuel. Go for it!!