Bob The Dog

Worth considering other makes of trailer too, unless you’re a die hard IW fan. I have a GD105 caged and it’s great, but it rattles like crazy when unladen, as IW’s seem to. I also have a Nugent flatbed and it’s quiet as a mouse. Build quality is very good too. Definitely worth considering if you can find one at the right price.

Another for X27. Far outperforms the heavier old fashioned maul

This is my HRX476. Hope the photos help!

It’s nothing to do with a licence to sell logs. It’s about vehicle insurance. If you’re selling firewood and transporting it in / on a vehicle, you’ll need business use insurance. Selling of logs and all those legal requirements are not something police have any involvement in. Insecure loads cause accidents, and it’s good that police are dealing with these matters, and in a sensible way too.

I had a wood burning stove installed some years ago, with a flexi stainless steel liner. The fitter backfilled the void with Vermiculite loose fill insulation. He suggested that it would help to prevent condensation and tar / creosote build up. Seemed worth the extra and certainly hasn’t caused any issues in having it done.

I’ve rebuilt a couple of Husqvarna saws following seizures. My 346xp had a meteor pot and piston and has done a lot of work in the 2 years since, with no issue. The second was a mates 435 which he put neat fuel through. He was about to scrap it as he’d bought another, but allowed me to try a cheapo £27 Chinese pot and piston from Amazon. More than a year on and it’s still running well, having done a fair bit of work. I will admit that the feel and quality isn’t what the meteor was, but for the money, and if it was a saw to be thrown out anyway, why spend loads, and just have it as a back up saw?

And there should be a fine gauze filter that fits into the fuel tank filler which helps to reduce crap entering the system

From memory, and it’s been a while since I’ve had to get into the carb on mine……the mount that holds the air filter in place has a couple of bolts (10mm ish) securing it. Pop those out and the mount will lift off. There is a gasket underneath so be careful when it comes out. This will then allow access to the top of the carb. You should then see a jet (at least that’s what I think it is) that can be removed by unscrewing and lifting out. Once out you may well see some of the ports are blocked. This is the issue mine had, and a good clean sorted the issue. Like I say, this is from a few years back, so I may have forgotten a stage or two of the process, but I do recall it being fairly obvious once I’d removed the air filter mount. Nice one with removing the blockage 👍

Does the engine run smoothly when not under load? Only running issues I have had were due to a blocked jet in the carb, which resulted in the engine hunting. It’s a relatively straightforward fix once the air filter and fuel tank are removed. I do blow the air filter and pre-filter out quite regularly, so worth checking that the filter is clean too. Check the fuel tank and lines for debris. I’ve removed the fuel pipe from the pump to the carb before to check on flow rate, that may give an idea whether enough fuel is pumping through to the carb. Re the blockage……a couple of options…..you can remove the belt cover and push a bar or spanner open end into the hole in the end of the cutter block shaft and rotate it backward to release the item. Also tip it onto the feed chute and crawl inside to remove the blockage by hand (making sure the key is out and the red kill switch is depressed), or if that doesn’t work, drop the cutter block out, as if you were changing the blades, and you’ll have full access to it then. Hope that helps in some way!

Just had a look on L&S engineers at their exploded diagrams. They show both sizes of piston for the 291, so I don’t think there is any foul play going on here!

Did you manage to get hold of a screw? I’ve got a handful here from a cylinder I swapped. Let me know if you need any 👍

Had a similar issue with a husqvarna leaf blower. Turned out to be a casing screw behind the flywheel had come loose and fallen out, and was jamming behind the flywheel against the engine side. It moved occasionally and would allow the engine to rotate a few times, but would then prevent it turning. May be a possibility?

Great result! Should be good for a while now!

Good news that it’s running well again. Did you manage to find what the actual issue was? When I cleaned my carb, I could clearly see the ports in the jet were blocked and it was obvious.

I’ve owned a cs100 for a few years and had both the issue of the choke lever moving forward and applying choke when running, and also a blocked jet in the carb. Both are easy fixes. You can access the carb jet by taking the fuel tank off and the bracket at the top that holds the air filter on, then the top of the carb can be removed, revealing the jet. It’s been a couple of years since I last did it, but it was fairly obvious once I started taking things apart. I found that the loose choke control completely killed the engine, rather than just making it hunt. A blocked jet may likely be the issue.

Mine is a 3/8 chain, which I thought was standard for this saw? Therefore it’s a 4mm file, whereas the .325’s I run on other saws are 4.8mm. Could be that your file size is too large?

I have about 50m of banks in the garden, all around 6m in height. Have always used an electric flymo on mine and albeit time consuming, it works ok. I bought the widest cut available, attached a rope to the handle and it works a treat! I had to turn the electric coupling on the handle over so that the cable attaches via the top, otherwise it kept getting knocked out when it slid down the bank. Otherwise, I’ve had 16 years of trouble free bank mowing from it!

Been using them in the Greenmech CS100 for a few years now and they’ve been great. In fact, I’ll need to buy some more soon and will get another set of Rotactech.

Mine has a squirt of grease before each job, and the bars have lasted well. The grease gun that comes with Husqvarna saws is hopeless, but the Oregon metal grease guns are good, used with Oregon red liquid grease. Anything thicker will tend to block up the nozzle from what I’ve found.

As Jase has said. My CS100 was hopeless after the first blade grind. When I checked, the new angles were incorrect, and not by a great deal. Not sure what your blades are like, but the cs100 blades have front and back angles, and both need to be spot on. Once rectified, it pulled the branches in brilliantly. Blunt or incorrectly ground blades are what stops brash and branches being pulled through from what I know!

Try L&S Engineers. They stock parts for that saw by the looks.

Only things I can think of is chain tension being too tight? Or the drive links sitting tight in the bar groove? All of which would need more revs to get the chain moving?

I’ve been using the Stein Rhino for a few years now. It’s capable of large cuts, is well made, and I’ve used it up to 30 feet on sectional poles. Just need to extend the rope, and wrap the rope once around the pole to prevent pole flex. Generally used at much shorter lengths tho.

If you’re driving a mechanically propelled vehicle vehicle on a road, then you can be stopped under s163 RTA 1988. They can then carry out whatever enq’s they have stopped you for. If you choose not to talk then that’s your call, but if you’re required to give your name / address and don’t, then you commit an offence. Section 60 isn’t just about a power for stopping vehicles. Surely it’s good that they’re out and about stopping people when crime has occurred?