Bob The Dog
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Everything posted by Bob The Dog
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It's currently sitting on the boiler - nice and warm there!!
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Thanks guys. I was pretty chuffed with it tbh. Being the OCD sort, I may well run the dremel around the edges tomorrow and tidy it up. Prob no need tho! I'd figured that the tank wasn't pressurised, and that it'd just be a case of keeping the oil in. I used araldite steel 2 pack epoxy adhesive. Roughened all the joining metal, then a good layer of the adhesive between. The rivets helped to pull it all in nice and tight, and so it should be good. I hadn't intentionally covered the outside with adhesive - cock up initially, as I put it onto the adhesive upside down, and so the top got covered. Handy tho, as it's the same colour as the grey husky paint!!
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Well, I spent a bit of time this morning making a repair for the hole in the oil tank. Got some 3mm aluminium plate from a local metal worker, and shaped to fit. Cleaned off the paint around the hole, and then drilled 3 holes to rivet the plate to the saw. Wasn't happy just using the 2 part steel epoxy adhesive, so thought it'd help. Anyway, it all seems ok. Will let the adhesive set over the next 24hrs and give it a go tomorrow. Perhaps I shouldn't have bothered ordering the new one just yet!!
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Been using the Stein poles from Jones's, with a whole host of attachments. I like them. Light, strong and well made, so get my vote. They don't like having large ash logs dropped on em tho!!
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It'd be great if there was one there! Shout if you find it!
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Well, my local husky dealer has quoted best part of £400 to repair with a new crankcase and all associated gubbins. So I've just gone and ordered a new one instead. I'll keep an eye on eBay for a spare crankcase and have a go at repairing it myself at some point.
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I wish that's all I'd done !!
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It does look, upon closer inspection, that it's a complete crankcase replacement. No easy fix by the looks!
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I was thinking about having some extra 'spud work' at the same time. It's a great saw, and I don't really want to bin it, so would be good if it's repairable at a sensible price.
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I wasn't going to bother cutting up the few logs I had lying around this morning, but in the end I decided to, and wished I hadn't. Had a log kick back off the saw horse, hit the front of the saw, and punched a 2"X1" hole straight through the crankcase, leaving all the bar oil to pour all over my boots! I've messaged spud, to see what he can do. Hopefully a picture is attached.
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The 365 xt is a great saw. Just don't bother using the decomp button. You'll miss the initial 'fire' on choke, and they're easy to flood then. Ground off the transfer cover fins on mine and its made quite a difference.
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Talking of rubber flaps - has anyone replaced theirs yet? Mine have all but broken off and disappeared now, with the odd straggler hanging on. They don't seem particularly rugged, unless I'm too heavy handed!
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Done it several times with mine too! My mate was messing with it, and had pressed the red button to stop it, instead of turning the key. Couldn't start it for ages, then realised the error! Easily done!
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F R Jones also do the Stein pole saw blades and other accessories. Cheaper than Jameson, and I think they are compatible too. I've been using the Stein poles, saw, loppers etc for some time now, and they're well made and sharp as a razor.
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First time I used spikes, had a load of sawdust inside my trousers, and it rubbed my shins red roar. Never had it since thankfully! Been on aluminium Gecko's for just over a year and they're great. Been in them all day, and no probs at all. I like the idea of the carbons, but I'd ruin them, just with the little bit of walking around I do whilst out of the tree.
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I remove my clutch on the 540 with a hammer and screwdriver. On the outer face of the clutch are two slots. Put the slotted screwdriver into a slot and shock it off in a clockwise direction with the hammer, having rotated it to max compression. A couple of good firm knocks and off it'll come. Not sure if others do the same, but that was the way it was taught on cs 30, and it's worked fine for me ever since. Remember - it's a left hand thread!
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Runs sweet as a nut, and holds steady throttle. Like it did originally. Must be a carb / fuelling issue.
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The engine on my greenmech chipper was doing the same thing. That's a B&S, and turned out it was a blocked jet in the carb. Full strip, ultrasonic clean and rebuild sorted both the hunting and backfiring. Tho if it's new, I can't imagine the card jets should be blocked?
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Can't argue with that - although whenever I've bought stone etc in bags, it's just been a 'builders bag of stone please', rather than a m3 bag.
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It's husky all the way for me I'm afraid! I've run a 550xp for nearly 3 years and it's been great. I've also played with a mates 555 and that's got loads of grunt, just felt a little heavier. I'm just a husky fan - as has been said before, loads of other good makes too. Mate has just bought an echo. Not sure which model, but lightweight and goes very well, for less money than H or S.
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I've given this some thought, and the only reason I could come up with is - logs are odd shapes, and therefore, once in a bag, there are actually a lot of gaps within. And so if you were to chip the same amount of wood, pour the chip into the bag, it'd probably only half or three quarters fill the M3 bag. And so you're not actually selling a m3 of firewood. I hope that makes sense. Can't see any other reason why they would come up with this idea. Perhaps it should be sold as a m3 bag of firewood, rather than a m3 of firewood? All a load of nonsense really!
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Hopefully I've attached a picture with the angles that could be printed and sent along with your blades. Saturn did exactly what I asked, so I'm sure you'll get the same helpful service.
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Hi spoons. Did a bit of digging with GM a while ago re the blades. The guy I spoke to reckoned you could grind them all the way back until the bolt heads became exposed, so loads of life left in them by that reckoning! The anvil has a lot of adjustment, so should be ok. I sent mine off to Saturn knives again recently, as my original GM blades weren't ground correctly. I specified 27 degrees on the front, and 10 degrees on the back angle over 4mm. They're in the machine and chipping well, with a clearance of 0.5mm between the anvil. I also had a set of new rotatech blades from Saturn, same angles, and they're awesome, but not cheap at nearly £200 a pair! Some companies will just grind the back angle, which leaves the front angle too short, and the edge of the blade doesn't come into contact with the wood first, hence the knocking of wood around and lack of self feed. Some grinders data states 15 degrees for back angle, but it's 10 according to GM.
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My boys primary school doesn't have a mini bus. So they just hire one from a local company, as and when it's needed. The bus size varies according to how many little darlings are going out on the trip, so all bases covered for far less money. No servicing, insurances etc, and professional PCV drivers to look after the kids, not someone driving a large vehicle who isn't very good at it! I'm sure the school could find a much better use for a few hundred quid if you wanted to raise some money for them Jon. -
You're probably right cdo! I just worry that there'll be a poor set up and zero, and whatever is being aimed at will be missed, or worse, badly injured and has a slow death. Destruction of animals needs to be quick and clean, and that'll never happen if the set up and variables aren't all properly considered.
