cornish wood burner

Lots of water. Perhaps a light sprinkle would make the roots come up but never heard or had that. I used to maintain gear for a couple of turf suppliers/ layers and occasionally give them a hand. Last thing they would say to their customer was "water it well". Not enough water and letting it dry out will cause shrinkage as I am sure you know.

Have a look in forestry and woodland management/ bracken in woodlands I had the same problem + brambles you wouldnt believe how thick and tall a few years ago. After regular cutting 99.99% gone. Very occasional weak shoot of bramble but you need to really look for quite a while to find one. Assuming you can cut it of course.

Just clicked on the link from sand spider and that titan is much faster than my b&d. 13.5 against 8

One important thing to check is chain speed. Most are very slow but some are around double the slowest. I bought a s/h black and decker for very little but its very slow. Worth having but I'm glad I didnt buy it new and only use it very occasionally.

My portek head clamps via the threaded skid plate with the line running through to cut both sides, slightly smaller diameter and no lead in like the jet fit, so in the limit snaps close in. Keep it whistling and it seems ok. Jet fit is certainly better shaped but we have had one ratchet fail. Not a problem as we just use the other pair. Different heads have different problems but both are streets ahead of a normal manual or bump head IMO.

Totally agree Stubby but if site rules say no blades then he has to make do with lines. I am in the same boat because of stones on my patch. I use mainly 4 mm diamond edge cutting woody weeds, saplings etc but one thing that seems to happen is that if I let the revs drop then that's when its likely to break. As a fellow diamond edge fan have you noticed the same?

In the film when Jaws was first sighted it was said we need a bigger boat . Looking at what you have to do you need a bigger strimmer. Good luck.

Anyone who had used diamond edge knows its the best. Nylium is reasonable but not as good IME. Regarding power I use 4 mm diamond edge cut to about 20 inches in my 52cc Chinese strimmer. Drives it no problem. Portek head using precut lengths. My guard is still in place but will accommodate 10 inch radius. I also have a 40 cc Stihl and use 3 mm diamond edge or nylium for light cutting to use it up.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned fingernails. If you have reasonably long fingernails and one of your fingers line up with your thumb then pinch the ticks head between your nails and pull gently. We used to remove ticks at the farm that way. I have some long nose tweezers now, but if you are stuck fingernails are worth a go.

He's fishing so chilled out

You did better than me then Jon I also caught a common and a couple of Rudd this evening. All three together barely 2 lb though. The lake I was fishing gets very slow when it hot.

I think this maybe may be derailing this thread but you need a mix of knowledge to get the best out of any forum. I always thought that was the idea of discussion groups like this. You could say I am Joe public cutting my own logs but I have given information that may be lacking among log murchants. Most of us ask questions and answer others, shared information and help is what makes this forum work so well.

That sounds ideal Jon. I struggle to tie a hair on anything smaller than 14 now, I think he must have better eyes and smaller fingers than me.

Depends on the bait. With bread crust a bigger hook holds it better. Normally I use a 6 or 8 for bread but I have been known to use a 4 in a big piece especially if it is a bit soft and falls off smaller ones. I normally use 8, 10 or 12 in a chunk of luncheon meat. I guess sweetcorn or maggots 16 to 18 but I never can be bothered with small fiddlely hooks. I like to fully hide the hook inside the bait unless I am using a hair rig in which case I use around a 12. Most carp are short sighted so no problem there but touching the hook presumably could spook them. Bait movement is by far the most important imo. I normally use braided hook lengths which allow the bait to move more naturally. Free lining on the surface I have seen carp swim around bread, workout which is moving wrong, eat all the pieces except the one with the hook in, swipe that one with their tail which knocks it off the hook then eat it seconds later. I always use a length of braided now and they find it harder to work out which piece has the hook. Same applies to soaked dog biscuits on the surface.

Totally agree Matty. Also I expect you have also seen the results of rough handling. Some years ago I was fishing a lake containing carp of 1 to 15lb, the guy next to me hooked a carp say around 8lb. Looked away then back a minute or so later and he had it on the bank, its mouth torn and bleeding through being winched in as Jon put it. Long time ago now but I think he said something like 20 lb line with a 4 lb tc rod. Many fish that lake while on holiday and just bring heavy tackle, it explains why that lake is full of fish with ripped and deformed mouths. 6 to 8lb line with a 1.25 TC rod is ideal for those smaller fish IMO. I use 8 or 15lb line on a 1.75 TC for up to 30lb. I must admit though that big carp take a bit of stopping with light tackle but thats half the fun of fishing.

Probably the same sort of pressure but could easily be only 1/3 the flow rate, depending of course on what telehandler you had originally.

If the public have free range then I would imagine that's a big problem. No general public on the nursery I work for but always a worry. Our thermal screens have fire break lines but I have seen pictures of the devastation a screen fire can cause. Pretty much a new glasshouse needed. Ist year I was there we had a fire in a home made lighting cabinet. (Built pre CWB I might add) It caught the tunnel plastic above it but was limited to that end of the tunnel. A lot of black smoke apparently but easily put out with a hose.

Roll up tunnel vent is UV stabalised. Not used it but I believe it normally has a 10 year life on the top of a tunnel. It will be expensive but must be stronger than normal tunnel cover. Whether its worth it depends on price difference. I will enquire.

Exactly

I use a masonry nail to lock mine. Welded a loop on so I can find it easily

These is a few things to do to vastly improve the strength of this one Sussex . 3x3 cross members at the ends. Even a short length above the door spreads the load on the hoop via the p clips. Most important is a brace from the ridge bar to the cross member We use a vertical from the cross bar to the top of the hoop then brace from the cross bar to the ridge to make a triangle. Wrap your poly tighter around the end hoop and batten tight to the door posts. Posts are needed the other end too, fasten them to the underside of your cross bar. Also brace from the ground diagonally to halfway uo the hoop. It looks like your failure was the end hoop bending in because of no braces. Polythene could be a bit tighter along the sides and ends as well. When you fit the poly put a little soil over it in the trench and go along and lift and flap as you go. Fold the polythene back over the soil in the trench to help it grip then fully fill. A tunnel should last at least 5 years even in the most windy site. Low and sheltered like yours longer. I hope that will help.

Sounds like a plan. Cheers

I dont think you mean glasshouse thermal screen shading. It has silver strips about 6 mm wide with gaps depending on the shading % required. All joined with cotton like threads. You can get reinforced polythene for tunnel vents. Rovero tunnels roll up roofs (roll air) use a strong reinforced polythene.

I agree. Only one way for its value to go as they don't seem to make them any more. How do you manage for spares or dont you ever need any? I presume some parts are common to other cars? I would love a closer look if you are ever this side of the water. That is one of my top three favourite cars.

If you don't already do it you could try a small ratchet over the bundle. Bit slower but you might save a bit of wear and tear to the saw and possibly yourself. I have a similar thing with a variety of wood from my hedges 2 to 14inch . Big stuff I cut with a chain saw but up to 5 inch I use an evolution 355 mm chop saw to get around the same problem you have. They do not recommend using it for round but it works.