Hey ho. As it says on the label, I'm swapping over an engine on a tractor mower both B&S one 11hp tother 13 but it's just a bit different to what I've met before so I need a bit of mind setting to rest please.
Firstly does surface rust on the magneto rim matter? It's been stood outside and being iron has heavy surface rust. Should I clean this up with fine sand/emery-paper or does that make it worse? (grit in the works) Will it 'self-clean' with use? Is the magnetism not bothered by rust so don't worry?
Also, I'm intrigued. Am I missing a trick? How do you chock one of these engines in order to remove (say) the fly-wheel nut?
On the old engine that suffered a catastrophic internal disassembly I was able to remove the crank-shaft pully nut because the crankase was full of garbage and locked up easy.
But on the new one, nothing to lock up! Normally I'd bung a load of rope down the spark-plug hole but these are L-Head? Flathead? Side-valve? what's the correct term for these? They have the plug in a small chamber offset from the piston and you can't bung em up.
In the past on a smaller tecumseh, when I've had the head cover off anyway, I've simply taken it off again, slipped in a 22mm socket, back on, tighten up, flywheel off but on this briggs thers so much heat shielding and faffing I couldn't be doing with it.
Again the old engine appeared to have a plastic ring gear (for the starter motor) and I thought this would be the same and that I couldn't sprag it; but when I took the cover off. lo! twas metal, so spragged the ring gear and the crankshaft pulley bolt slipped undone as if it was only done up yesterday; so bit of a result.
But, just for future reference, how DO you chock it up for taking off the flywheel nut?
And lastly, between the engine and the crank-shaft pully-shaft there is a bush/thrust bearing/spacer. One side is flat one side is concaved. Unfortunately it fell off and rolled away during the dismantle. Any idea which side is up?
Thanks in anticipation
Yourn