Couldyajust

You could have a whole Welsh lamb butchered, packed & delivered to your door for less than that Jon. Just think how much stew that would make. Quality Organic Welsh 'Aran-Lamb'.

I'm curious too. The only info I have found is that they are marketed in the USA as Forest Tough™ chains by NWFFG FOREST - Saw Chains - NW Farm Forest Garden. No reviews or info about who actually makes the chain.

Firstly I should say your 180 should of been up to the job you were using it for, When you say it has "burnt out" that could mean anything but suggests a component was failing anyway & just happened to go while you were using it. If you still have it then I think it would be worthwhile taking it to a dealer to find out what it would cost to repair it, it may not cost much to fix and even if you buy a new saw it will still have its uses. If the repair required is not cost effective then what most people would do is stick it on ebay described as spares/repairs & it would generate a bit of money to offset against the cost of buying a new one you would be surprised what a faulty saw can sell for particularly if you offer to post it by courier rather than as a collection only item. When it comes to brands then people tend to go with familiar names for example the "Stihl Easy File" filing guide mentioned earlier which is a very good product is actually manufactured by Pferd but people tend to buy the Stihl version because it is a familiar name simply because they haven't heard of the Pferd ChainSharp CS-X the only difference is the colour of the plastic parts & the brand name on it both are identical in performance & made by the same company in this instance but still one sells better than the other. Other brands are always worth considering, Echo & Dolmar saws are definitely worth considering for quality, performance & longevity but for the way you use a saw I would suggest Efco is another brand worth serious consideration. Efco uses more plastic for the casing rather than metal but you would not be as heavy handed with it as many people who use them professionally would so that shouldn't be an issue. All 3 of these brands will be cheaper than the Stihl or Husqvarna equivalents and will perform equally well or better for what you will be using the saw for. When you choose a saw something with an engine around 40cc-50cc should be more than adequate for what you want to use it for. A saw in that range would have more power than you would typically need so wouldn't have to work very hard & would therefore last longer than a less powerful saw would. The general rule for bar size is 3cc of engine power for each inch of bar at the most so a 42cc saw would happily run a 14" bar all day every day if needed, they can run larger bars but it puts a strain on the engine & they don't perform as well, parts wear out faster etc... causing premature engine failure. Remember you can cut a log from both sides so a 14" bar will have no problem cutting a 28" log or tree trunk, lots of people seem to forget this & buy bigger saws than they really need or put on longer bars than is good for the saw. As the saw will be sitting unused for long periods it may be worth considering the use of Aspen pre-mixed 2-stroke alkylate rather than petrol if you have a supplier near you it is more expensive but it eliminates problems with stale fuel. I don't use it myself but many people do & they seem very happy with it.

Whatever species it is it's not worth risking serious injury for, you really do need to learn how to make proper felling cuts (assuming it was you that cut that). Hard to tell from that particular photo but I would lean towards sycamore.

An Echo CS-420 or a Dolmar PS-420C would be similar spec but better quality (in my opinion) for less money. Personally I would avoid anything with a tool free chain tensioner, more to go wrong & it is debatable whether anyone who can't operate a spanner & screwdriver should be operating a chainsaw. Flippy caps can be a real PITA as already stated although they don't all leak I avoid them where possible. Easy start is unnecessary unless of course you are using child labour where it can be advantageous as shown here: [ame= ] [/ame] Ultimately which saw is right for you will depend on what you typically cut & how much wood you cut. If you give us an idea of how you use a saw we could probably give you better suggestions for example do you fell trees or is it purely for logging up firewood? What is the average diameter of the wood you cut? Mostly hardwood or softwood? How often is the saw in use, most days or just for the odd couple of days every few months? Info like that makes it much easier to recommend a specific saw rather than just having a rough idea of your budget.

There are worse things he could of sung to his logs. [ame= ] [/ame]

Must of been a good salesman, it cost less than £150 when you bought it a couple of weeks ago. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/93518-husky-50-rancher-3.html#post1373683 When you take the saw back to the dealer take an average sized log out of your firewood pile with you, if they only have small diameter softwood on hand to test the saw they are not going to see the same problems you do. Taking them a decent size hardwood log for them to test it on will let them see it bog down themselves. An efco mt3500 with a 14" bar & a sharp chain will cut 24" diameter oak so there is no reason your more powerful mitox should struggle with small diameter logs.

I can honestly say I have never cut one accidentally and I won't be cutting 2 bt lines accidentally on Wednesday come to that. If the line only goes to 2 houses & they are both keen to see the tree come down then you will probably find there is a big coil of wire attached to one or both of those houses which can easily be dropped to create slack in the line. Often easier to do that than detaching it from the pole. BT are usually very unhelpful although I did actually manage to get them to do something the other day. Had a very unstable pole leaning on a tree that was due to come down, homeowner got the BT engineer out & I happened to be passing at the same time so stopped to have a word. Just as they were telling the homeowner it was fine I offered to cut the branch it was leaning on to demonstrate the point subject to the condition they provided me with a written disclaimer saying they had assessed the pole & it was stable so if the pole fell over when I removed the tree I would not be liable for the damage. Look of panic on the engineers face, quick phonecall & they came out & put a stay on the pole. Conversely a little while ago a pole did go over & landed among a row of conifers I was due to take down, BT had been out the night before said they would be back first thing in the morning to sort it. Turned up at lunchtime disconnected the 4 lines attached to it then announced they had no way to get the pole down out of my way as they were waiting for another crew to do that so I ended up taking the pole down for them so I could finish up the last 2 trees & get out of there

According to the spec on the mitox site it will be running 1.3mm but I would agree a 16" bar is ambitious for a saw that size a 12" or 13" bar would give much better performance. When it comes to the dealer tuning the carb if they only have 4" softwood available then why not take a decent size log with you so they see the problem you are experiencing & can ensure it is cutting properly before it goes back home with you again.

Should probably add when it comes to petrol vs electric, electric will usually be cheaper but petrol means you are not limited to where the cord will reach. That is basically all it comes down to for domestic use. Plenty of people round here are happy with the electric flymo blowers although very few of them bother with the vacuum function as they clog continuously with little twigs. I have a Stihl SH85 which costs quite a bit more than an electric flymo but the vacuum is a waste of time on that too therefore it is only ever used as a blower, spending more on a handheld petrol blower/vac does not make the vacuum function any better.

You are unlikely to find a blower/vac that actually vacuums that kind of material at a sensible price. Most handheld blowers will help gather up dry material into a pile which makes it easier to shovel up but the vacuum side of it is always a waste of time unless you just have dry leaves with no twigs or stones amongst them. If it is wet material then a handheld blower is unlikely to shift it which means paying out a fairly hefty sum for a backpack blower instead which is not necessarily cost effective if it is only for use in your garden although you may spot a secondhand one going cheap on arbtrader or ebay such as this one but even with a backpack blower it only helps create a pile in one place which will still need shoveling up.

3 on the drive link means the gauge is .050 (1.3mm). The number on the cutter will tell you the pitch as explained here: Saw Chain Identification | STIHL USA Mobile Once you have identified it you can find the equivalent husqvarna, oregon, carlton etc... chain types here if you want to give a more detailed description when selling it. https://www.baileysonline.com/Pages/Chainsaw-Chain-Cross-Reference-Chart/

That is a huge saving on the usual price. Manual here for anyone who wants it: http://www.oppama.co.jp/eng/line/PET-302R_manual_E.pdf

I use an Echo CS-8002 with bars varying from 16" to 28". Never bogs down in fact bigger timber is where the torque kicks in & it really comes into its own. Had the 28" bar on today ringing up a 40" Oak butt & a 5' Beech which had both gone over in the wind. No problem whatsoever going through them. To be honest it would probably pull a bigger bar with no problem (in the USA they recommend up to 36") but I have never tried it with anything bigger than the 28" bar it was originally supplied with. Mine came from Abbey ordered over the phone & got a substantial discount on the web price & a load of extras thrown in. You also get a 2 year commercial warranty if you sign up for it on the echo site. Sometimes it is worth paying a bit extra for a new saw rather than settling for a secondhand one as you know you won't have any problems with it.

R40 means it is an Ozaki type R 40cm bar which would mean the bar model number is 170-2109. That will indeed fit your 028 & will require a 67 link, .325 pitch, .063 gauge chain.

Good job it came with a 2 year warranty then a brand new saw shouldn't be bogging down in the cut. I am assuming you have checked it is oiling ok (bar doesn't need the groove cleaning) & the chain is tensioned properly (not too tight) to rule out user error before taking it back.

I know someone who regularly boasts they make at least 2 grand on a tree job what he doesn't say is that he only gets 1 or 2 tree jobs of his own a year the rest of the time he is getting £80 a day dragging brash for someone else. Ignore anything your mates say set your prices based on covering your costs & what you consider to be a fair profit.

It's not on Arbtrader anymore it has been added to my saw collection. Very nice saw it is too I have just been playing with it. Should come in very useful. Just need someone to sell me the even bigger 650mm version now.

An 028AV would use a 67 link chain on a 16" bar not a 62.

It's not alligator it's crocodile & very nice it is too, had a couple of crocodile burgers fried up on a Swedish candle for lunch yesterday along with fresh ground coffee brewed in the aeropress whilst working in the middle of nowhere, needed a hot lunch it was a bloody horrible day.

Always surprising what a Japanese saw is capable of with minimal effort on your part. I have a Temagori Nokogiri Crosscut saw which cuts through anything and can also be used to fell trees if needed. If you have the patience it also works as a ripsaw, this is what it can do with a 4' log.

Just added a 24" 058 Echo/Tsumura bar to the collection of bars I have for the CS-8002 so that is yet another chain I would like to see appear.

Mentioning this wont do your ad on abtrader any good. There must be a mistake somewhere because the same company also lists the Makita Dcs3410th for £379.95. As I recall there were both top & rear handle versions of this saw the rear handle was the DCS341 so either they have the photo & model number wrong or they are offering the top handle at an incredibly good price as well as the regular price. I have the Dolmar equivalent model & that has always been very reliable. The only other top handle saw in that price range would be the Mitox 36T No idea what that is like to use though.

Breakdown on the bill stated £20 for supply & fitting of new starter rope + £60 for "performing a full service" no definition of what that includes. They stated verbally that it needed sharpening & the saw needed tuning just before I left the workshop counter to go to the shop counter to pay. Another dealer in town is completely different they have a £10 charge to look at a tool whether they do anything or not but you then get a phone call advising what needs doing a price for them doing it and a price for just the parts if you want to do the work yourself. You pick an option & go from there or you could just pay the £10 & do nothing if you decide it's not worth repairing. Much better service in my opinion even though a lot of people do not go there because they don't like having to pay the £10 charge if their tools turn out to be scrap.

You would think so but I dropped off a saw at a local dealer with a good reputation once because I was flat out & had no time to look at it myself, asked them to replace the pull cord which was badly worn & do a full service as it wasn't running right. Took 2 weeks before I got a call saying it was ready, picked it up & they said there you go that's £80 BTW the chain needs sharpening & it needs tuning. I muttered various things under my breath paid the bill & took it home left it on the bench until I had time to clean the carb to resolve the running problems myself (clogged H jet). Never taken a saw to them since oddly enough.