william127
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Everything posted by william127
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iv just popped the carb off and turned the saw upside down/on its end and petrol comes out the pipe from the tank, so it should be entering the carb when its attached?
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just timed it, seemed to be about 10 seconds, i can get access to a comp tester, and will do that when i can. just pulled it over 20 times and its still dry, gonna check the fuel filter and lines next, thanks for the advice.
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indeed, so I will be following the above advice and getting the small log mill to make the most of my (currently) undersized saw:001_rolleyes:. buying either of the se mills is a bit of fun/bit of a punt, so it may well be that after a few months I decide to keep what I buy and carry on, sell it and give up milling or (and having seen all the other posts in this forum this seems the most likely!) upgrading saw and mill:thumbup1:
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actualy its a 127:wink: thanks, just got it back on the road after a few years, got too impatient to paint it, tipped about 40 tonnes with it in its first week back working!
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iv been looking at this site when I needed some advise for a couple of years, signed up a few weeks ago been on here mosts days since, great for firewood selling advice, saw advice and talking about landrover tippers!
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just pulled it over a few times on full choke (with fuel in the tank) and whipped the plug out and it was dry, whats the next step? thanks, William.
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Ive just dug my 1995 044 out the shed and am trying to get it running. I have filled it with fresh fuel and it has a spark, although I need to set the plug gap, where do I go next? I guess I need to check the fuel lines, should I do aecompression test? Thanks, William.
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Have done so under the name William ives/ willams world of wood. Thanks.
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Ok thanks, am I right in thinking that you offer a discount to people on here?
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Having spent half the day reading this forum I now really want a chainsaw mill! I mainly just want one but I think I could probably make some usable/salable products for my landscaping business. To start with I shall be using it with my ms390 with a 16inch bar and then I shall be using my 044 when its restored, probably running a 20 inch bar. So what do you recommend the small mill or the 24inch? I understand that you lose about 6 inches of cutting length with an alaskan? Thanks, William.
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Thanks, I will certainly be charging more for the bulk loads in future, I thought id post the other thread for advice before making advertising. I think I pulled in about £2000 over the last year for logs with no advertising, I think this year I shall advertise and hopefully double that, then next year look at processing equipment. I currently have access to a mf35 with a loader but that only has a single hydraulic pipe to the rear, so cant run even a simple log splitter with out modifications. I am planning on buying a slightly bigger/more modern tractor this year for paddock/fieldwork contracting so after that I will be looking into some firewood machinery. The logs always used to be a bit of fun but after last yeear I think it could really go somewhere. Its the supply of good quality timber that vital imo. Thanks, William.
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Based on the advice given ill just have a go at the muffler and the tune up the carb will need afterwards, I can always change the muffler back again. Thanks, William.
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Ok I'll just have a go at the muffler then, is there a particular model of stihl that would be good for an inexperienced tinkerer to have a go at? I fancy getting a spares or repairs project of some sort. Thanks, William.
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Iv had my ms 390 for about 7 years and its done a medium amount of work and is still in great condition but I now mainly use my291 so id like to give tune up and maybe modify it a bit but still leave it useanble for day to day logging etc. Where would you recommend I start and where I could buy any uprate d parts I might need? Thanks, William.
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Mine was 1.5 days training and the test, so probably about 11hours training, its all about practicing driving test style driving! Id been driving 20,000 miles a year for 7 years at this point so it wasstrange to be driving like that again, one problem I had was not using engine breaking as they really don't like you changing down unnecessarily.
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How many meters/yards of logs do you sell over a year? And how do you get the raw materials and how do you process it? Also how do you advertise? Im not after detailed/private business ins and outs, just general ideas/chat. Over the last year I did approximately 40 yards, all processed with a ms291 with a 15inch bar, split with a maul or axe, and delivered either in my landrover or tractors link box in bulk bags. My uncut logs mainly came from an old railway yard that was being cleared by engineers who I gave a few quid to let me in:001_smile: The rest was from a medium sized fruit tree removal I did and about 5 cubic metres of very well seasoned willow I mixed in. All my customers were very happy, most order ing 3 or 4 times. Thanks, William.
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Me and 3 other mates did it a year ago, they all passed but I failed on a stupid mistake, its not too bad, the training is way more about driving the car than towing the trailer, the one manoeuvre is very straightforward.
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Ok thanks when I start advertising I shall be asking for £150 for them, im currently charging £55 for a bulk/dumpy bag, how does that compare with other people? I did measure the trucks volume in cubic yards not meters, not sure why:001_rolleyes:
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Im in Hertford, Hertfordshire.
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Hello ive just sold my first tipped load of split logs, as iv always sold by the dumpy bag until I got my tipper truck back on the road. It was a load of about 2.5 cubic yards of what I said was unseasoned (although they were probably fine but wanted to cover myself) chestnut and birch, mainly split completly but with a few big bits as requested. It was a local job and I charged £100, which I thought was a good deal alround, what do you think?
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Arborworx try foleys (google foley sv), they usually have stuff like that.
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My 291 with a 15inch bar goes like a rocket, and 170's are great value for money, especially for landscaping or fencing.
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I have series doors one my 1990 127 and my mate has them on his 1996 90, they are a straight swap if you use early 90/110 door handles (not older series ones). I brought good bottom halves from a mate for £40 and brand new tops for £100, so with new hinges and stainless screws alround quite a major change cost me less than £200:thumbup1:
