David Dobedoe

I agree with Agrimog and others. This work is a bottomless pit of things to be learnt and for a lot of it a significant contribution to learning is to work alongside more knowledgeable and skilled people. Mentoring and supervision is something that needs to be developed for many situations. For new to the industry workers I would recommend making sure you get to work with skilled people who are happy to support you and learn from them.

Thanks Spud, sounds like a good working saw is idea and something that is repairable can be done at the same time as repair.

Lots of great debate here, thanks. I also like french bread. Any thoughts as to starting with a factory fresh saw or something that has been used?

Thanks for the replies so far, any thoughts as to modding older saws or new? What sort of costs for spud to take a reasonable saw and doing his thing to it?

Inspired by to much time on 'you tube' and owning one or two saws in need of attention i have started wondering about sourcing two or three tuned saws. Ones that I keep to myself and don't let every tom, dick and harry use to cut dirty woody, touch the road, fill with poorly mixed fuel etc. grrrrr From what i understand a tuned saw can give better power to weight than a standard saw. From those of you experienced with these things which saws show the best performance gains without too much compromise in terms of reliability? Is it best to have a problem or older saw rebuilt or start with a new saw, forfeit the warranty and 'go for it'? As a climber I'm particularly interested in saws that mean I can work with better power to weight so which saws tune well? At the moment i'm pondering a Stihl 150 or Echo 2511 Stihl 201, Husqvarna 540 ( or a Stihl 200 if i can find a good one.) Husqvarna 560. At the moment i sometimes use long bars on a stock 560 (it struggles) how much performance gain is realistically possible or would i be better of simply using a bigger saw. What sort of costs are involved if somebody like spud does the work? Spud obviously has a good reputation for this work, who else in the UK specialises in this work with a good reputation? Thanks in advance D

Putting your hands in the exhaust when climbing, heated handles on the ground saws.

email sent D

I have come across a lot of problems with xp saws. My conclusion is Use good, fully synthetic two stroke oil, XP seems to be best for these saws. 50:1 mix is recommend so be really fussy about how you mix it and use fresh petrol. Keep the saw clean so that cooling happens as its designed to. Air vents and cooling fins covered in spruce sap and sawdust seems to be a significant factor. I know someone who at last count had blown up fourteen 560's ( probably more). and it seems not keeping clean enough is a factor. This is much easier to manage when working with hardwoods. I think Aspen would be fine, I seem to remember husqvarna recommending it. Saws don't last forever. Great little saw the 550.... wish i still had one. Will buy another in the future

need to organise a play wicklamulla

I've noticed a lot of variation with different climbers with this issue as well as freshly trained climbers not sure how to best look after themselves in this regard. I think climbers should organise themselves in a way that if they have a problem all they have to do is release their positioning lanyard and lower themselves down. In the event they can't do it for themselves the rescue climber can relatively easily operate the system for them. My personal preference is an SRT set up. As said before it is possible tie on with a long tail at the top of the stem, come down a few feet as appropriate and do some of the work (face/gob cut, install lowering gear etc. ) before pulling the climb line down and re positioning it below your work positioning lanyard and finishing the work. This way the climber is protected from above much of the time. This is also helpful on awkward difficult to balance on stems. The figure of eight descender on a choked rope approach can work this way as well. A simaler approach works fairly well with a cambium saver type of device and ddrt. As with everything some care and judgement is required. I was descending a thin ash pole by lowering off a adjustable cambium saver choking the stem and it slipped... as a consequence I fell to the floor. Very lucky, I got away with it un-hurt. Perhaps there was a enough friction to slow me down a bit but it didn't feel it. I have come across students who have been taught to climb on two lanyards.... I don't understand why this would be taught and I'm pretty confident it was not what I was shown when I did my training. I'm curious as to what people are currently being taught?

Thanks, that's useful. With the work I have done in the past, because they have usually turned off the power or turned of the power and dropped the lines they have created a situation where I've not been working in a relevant proximity zone. That will be why tickets for utility work haven't mattered. Exceptions have been where they have either supervised the work, which in reality was work where they agreed no risk if we dismantled responsibly instead of felling... And I seem to remember some work where they covered the lines before we worked.

Wanting to clarify both good practice and legal requirements for working near powerlines. Specifically not working with for a power company. I have always understood that the guidelines are that if the tree/s are to be felled we need to be two tree lengths away. If we're climbing / dismantling we need to be 10 meters away. Using these guidelines I have always contacted the power company when to close and made arrangements with them. I have found them helpful and had shut downs, lines dropped and occasionally supervision and no other intervention. Anything that should be added or changed in my understanding?

No sorry, he has 462, I put the video link up a few minutes ago.

Darren's saw is a production saw

A forestry mate has just started using the 462

The issue of rescue provision not really being in place is an industry problem. Working as a subbie I had a young 'rescue climber' on one job and I thought it would be good to let him do a little climbing as we had the time and he needed to build up more experience and I could drag brash. It was a straight forward easy climb. He simply couldn't get sorted and into the tree. Not even close. He had a rescue ticket, so ticked the box on the paperwork but incompetent. Its simply unacceptable. I have no problem helping or teaching people how to do things and develop but as I understand it rescue provision / planning is a legal requirement and something that needs to be taken more seriously by many in the industry. (Rant over) And yes I did raise the issue with him and his boss!

I use 15,18.20 and 24 inch with mine depending on what I'm doing. 24 is a bit long for it but makes a great light saw for sectioning down bigger stuff and I don't like climbing with bigger saws if i can avoid it. (To small, to old an to weak) 20 is OK but I prefer 18 for general use because it stresses the saw less. I know people who kill 560's in forestry work, working them very hard on longer bars so I avoid longer bars most of the time. 15 on a 560 is mostly because I have a couple and need to use them up. Should probably get another 550 in the future. Hope that helps. D

My friend is looking to get a brush cutter for lots of work on mainly grass. I have a Stihl FS460 which is great but it gets used on srub clearence more than long grass. I suspect a slightly smaller machine might suit him better but with a professional build quality. What would people recommend? Thanks in advance D

My friends Japa 305 stolen from the Silverdale (North Lancs) area about a week ago.

Sorry Steve, I have no idea.

I'm encouraged to read that this system is working for some people and the police have used it. Unfortunately I seem to have got my account suspended in trying to change the password. I have collected up all the relavant serial numbers and will add them once password is resolved. Thanks

Am i right in thinking there is an Arbtalk tool register? Something to help identify owners by serial numbers etc. TIA David

Interesting the difference between Stihl (461) and Husqvarna (560). Stihl protect it from filth with a cover and mount on the engine side of the bar and chain. Husqvarna have it with out a cover, not protected but easier to keep clean, mounting on the outside of the bar and chain in the cover.

Thanks thetoolnut, all sorted now, build up in and around the mechanism. took covers off and used air hose.

My 461 has developed a very poor chain brake action. Impossible to put the brake on with left wrist. I will have a good look and see if anything obvious is damaged or filthy. Saw is well maintained and cleaned often enough, any ideas? TIA D