David Dobedoe

If your not already familiar with the switch. The warm start position is crucial and not marked.

Thanks all! As stated in the original post I am in the process of developing my understanding so very happy to be corrected / informed! Trequip, regarding what is being winched, given I am learning about these things it will be a variety of tree work applications. Hopefully starting gently, building experience and knowledge. TreeMunky, what you say makes sense and estimating weights leans etc. is not easy. When possible I fully agree with the concept 'if you think its too big make it smaller!' And equally it may be that if i think its to big it maybe and therefore a job for somebody else! Treewolf - Good stuff in your reply. So thank you again.

I am in the process of understanding and selecting winching equipment. I want to ensure that the equipment I put together is all compatible and fits in with best practice guidelines. Ultimately I can see several sets of equipment being helpful given the different sizes of challenges winches can be applied to. I am considering the Tirfor with a working load limit of 1600kg. I understand that this winch is designed to fail at 50% overload via a shear pin. This should mean that the pin fails at 2400kg. Is this correct? As I understand it strops, shackles and pulleys are designed to fail at 400/500% overload. For example a 2000kg strop in good condition and used 'sensibly' shouldn't fail before its loaded to approximately 8000kg. Is this correct? Given the redundancy (reserve strength) in the pulleys/strops and shackles etc.) is a much bigger margin is it considered acceptable/good practice to put together 'sets' of kit together based on the redundancy or not? The winch obviously gives a mechanical advantage. When a more powerful pull is needed it is possible to use pulley systems. I have some concerns about the extent these systems dramatically increase the loads on the equipment. If I understand this correctly a two to one system based on the 1600kg winch, factoring the 50% overload can have parts of the system stressed to 3600kg before the shear pin fails. If a similar but three to one system is used part of the system can be stressed to 7200kg before the shear pin fails. I know that there are other significant factors. Including stretch, friction, wheel size in pulley etc. I am new to working with pulley systems and winches in the world of tree work. I suspect that a direct or redirected pull is most commonly used. If I understand this correctly, when a pull is simply redirected, for simple figures the maximum pre failure load in the system will be less than two times the failing capability of the winch. In this case 4800kg. (two times shear pin failure load) So, more questions: I can see a case for not using pulley systems with the mechanical advantage being already generated by the winch. In reality how often (if at all) are two to one and three to one systems used? How do I select kit to be inline with good practice? I am also interested in ensuring the right pulley selection for the cable and know very little about this. What would you good people recommend and and where can I obtain them? Any other thoughts/suggestions appreciated. Thanks for any help David

Thanks for your thoughts so far. I have found a few good documents online and will be reading over the weekend to supplement my understanding. http://www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/FCTG001.pdf/$file/FCTG001.pdf http://www.nptc.org.uk/assets/documents/168b7cfda16241e285f1359a51d047e7.pdf This rope selection question continues to make me think.... Perhaps if I further describe typical application it will help? Situation A branch has fallen off and hung up in the canopy. As a first attempt to remove it and make safe I could use a throw line to get a cord over it... use the cord to pull a rope over it and then... attach the rope to the winch cable to give it a pull. Hopefully, if all goes well the pull will bring it down safely. (We did this twice on the course, one situation not even needing the winch and succumbing to the add more boys method!) Assuming the branch is 50ft up the rope will need to be more than 100ft long. Given that this type of situation may require anything from a small pull to quite a big one. (and sometimes the technique won't work) the rope needs to be a safe specification to marry up with the rest of the winching equipment. I understand the issue of not misusing ropes that are needed for another purpose. e.g. not using a climbing rope and then climbing on it with its performance potentially reduced. I am not a tree climber but understand that people dismantling trees lower tree parts down so wonder if that sort of rope could be used safely and still used for lowering? I also understand there is s big difference in the pull from a tiny winch and a big one and that the rope needs not not be a weak link in the system. I would like the rope to be cost effective and ok in a number of applications. My brother uses a small petrol capstan winch in his work. Perhaps the rope that is used for this would be ideal? Thanks in advance David

I’ve just been on a training course for CS32, 34 and 50. ( or whatever they are called now) As I think through the learning I have recognised a few further questions. On the course we used high lift wedges. If the lift from the wedges is not quite “doing it” is a little further encouragement with a winch reasonable? (accepting issues of safety when installing rope / rigging / positioning winch). I presume that in this case tension/pull is added after the cuts? Alternatively is it reasonable, on occasion to attach a rope on a tree and introduce 'pull' in the desired direction before the sink and felling cuts ? If this is done I presume it becomes appropriate to use a “Dog Tooth” cut due to the changes in loading? i would imagine that as trees get bigger these approachs becomes more troublesome due to the increased weights and loads involved. Thoughts please? I am thinking of putting together a lightweight set of kit for smaller jobs based around a winch with approximately 700kg/800kg pull. When it is appropriate to attach a rope to something and then attach that rope to the winch cable and give it a pull (eg pulling dead/fallen branches out of a tree) what is the best rope for the job. Factoring in appropriate value for money/stretch//strength? The rope must be suitable for the work described and it would be great if it was also suitable for other uses in the future. Perhaps related to tree climbing work? (assuming its still in good condition). Thanks in advance David

My first suggestion would be to try using the PC/laptop you have but instal Linux on it. I have a netbook that was as slow as a slow thing on Windows XP. Installing Umbuntu which is readily available free version of Linux has made it usable and hassle free. The added bonus is that there is lots of free (open source ) software available online including office packages. My second suggestion would be to consider a chromebook. £230ish will see you up and running on what would seem to me to be hassle free computing. All your work would be stored online at Google so no back up issues, no maintenance issues. If its broken lost or stolen you just log into your account from another machine and continue to work. (probably at this stage changing your password) My brother runs his farm business this way and it seems very good. Even without a Chromebook I think this type of setup is the future of computing for the majority us and whilst the "cloud" has some disadvantages it looks like its going that way. As i understand it some of the downsides of the chromebook system are you more or less need an internet connection which is not always possible espcially in remote areas printing is not quite as straight forward it is not particualry pratical for large file sizes tyical of multimedia work…photos video etc it is limited to normal stuff and specilist software is not going to work Third suggestion wold be to get all your important work into the "cloud" safe and sound so that whilst your changing things you don't loose things. I use Mac, Windows and Linux . Mac is probably an even better option for you if you don't mind the difference in cost.

I used to work in the "ropes course" world. This website would probably be a good place to start Home I used to be involved in inspections of the sort of things that you mention. Some are well thought through and well designed others death traps!!! Or at least that was the case 10 years ago. We used to inspect the ropes course construction against European standards and employ a "tree man" to inspect the trees. Hope this helps? David

Thanks for your time everybody, I will follow up on your suggestions both here and in email. David:thumbup1:

I'm going to organise myself training and assessment for CS32,38 and 39 I have had a CS 30/31 for approximately six months and have worked in woodland / tree work for probably 3 days a week since on a variety of work so am building up experience all the time. I live in Cumbria and I have places I can stay in Warwickshire for free so those areas are advantageous but I could travel elsewhere. Can I ask you to make recommendations on where I might get this organised? If your running these courses let me know and feel free to send details to [email protected] Other than the cost of the training, I assume there will be other costs? Can anybody make an estimate of how much extra cost there is in equipment to be able to undertake the training. Do some trainers / establishments provide the equipment for the course? What else should I be thinking about? Many thanks David

I did my CS30 / 31 about five months ago. It was a good experience. Given my experience levels I found it quite a stretch but the Assessor was really supportive by encouraging conversation to check my understanding and knowledge. Allowing me time to demonstrate my developing skill. Since passing I have probably done 80 days woodland / chainsaw work in a number of situations and have continued to learn heaps. For people with little background experience like me it has become clear to me that the CS30/31 is a first stepping stone into work that is interesting, complex and potentially dangerous. There is lots to learn and CS30/31 is just the start! I would think the assessment is really aimed at checking people are at a basic minimum standard to be safe with the work covered. My top tips would be make sure the saw you are using behaves itself! Nothing will distract you more than a saw that won't start for example! This assessment is also about your practical skill. If you can get some sensible practice, ideally with somebody who can supervise your work it will be time well spent. Saw control and control of the cuts you make improves massively with practice. Good luck, learn as much as you can on the assessment David

I'm looking for short term work, anything considered from half day to a few weeks. I did my CS 30/31 in December so I'm new to the work but have already managed to be involved in a number of different types of tree feeling based contracts. Most of the work has been conservation based, creating clearings and wildlife corridors in areas of woodland. I have also worked on a number of other contracts including supporting work with large trees, trees above houses etc. I'm 49 years old with experience of working in many different types of situations (Including, Airlines, Shipyards, Banks and Biscuit factories.) I would like to think I bring lots of varied business experience and a good attitude to my work. Ideally I'm looking for work that will help further develop my experience, earn a few quid and be good for me and good for whoever I'm working for. I have my own PPE, 50cc saw and basic equipment. I live in Cumbria, I do travel for work when it makes sense. If you think I may be able to help you, or that you might be able to help me please don't hesitate to give me a call 07909923825 or email [email protected] I'm sure my current employer would be happy to give reference ( or comment on the phone) both about skill levels and attitude. Thanks for reading David Dobedoe

Thanks again...

Thanks sam66s Is the little hole the one in the centre of the clutch/drive assembly?

I'm quite new to the this world so my questions are from the novice perspective. I've just cleaned the air filter on my newish 550 xpg and noticed an amount of oily dust / muck in the plastic inlet manifold (think I've got this right?) Is this a normal amount or is it a problem. Fiddling with it I think has a good chance of pushing it into the carb. Thoughts please? And I know I need to lubricate the needle bearing on the chain sprocket / clutch. How do I do this, and can it be done without removing the clutch/sprocket? I don't have the tools for that but will order some on Monday. Thanks in advance David

The hard the saw works the more the handles are heated. Big difference between tick over where there is little heat and working hard where there is lots. The handles loose heat quite quickly in cold wet conditions even when the saw is left ticking over.

I bought a 550 xpg last week. Slight issues with learning how to start to begin with. Not sure if it's me or the saw? It's only had four days full on use felling and processing mixed broadleaf woodland but so far it's been superb. The big difference for me is that because its the lightest saw I've used I can work for longer and work faster. I'm not built like the Gruffalo (The Gruffalo - Official website) if I was I would have opted for the 560. The heated handles have been brilliant working wet through in snow and sleet. But even in those conditions I don't have them on all the time.